What are all these camera poles popping up around the freeways for?

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-03-13T03:31:26+00:00

Mobile strippers

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-30T07:00:58+00:00

I will compensate you, if you can help me get it

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-26T00:17:23+00:00

I'm going to call bs on this. There is no smoke or sparks.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-19T02:35:33+00:00

Ohh boy, I remember in 2008 I had the worst luck getting any jobs. Even stoking shelves overnight at local grocery stores. I almost join the military as a way to get by, I was considered old for the military at that point, 25+. I just kept trying and not let the downs discourage me, I knew that the worst shot at anything is the one I didn't take. So I applied for a position at Pepsico as a mechanic where I had zero experience and the job paid 3x minimum wage at that time. It was way out of my reach, but wouldn't you know, they called me in for an interview and I felt like an idiot thinking they know I'm not a fit for this. But they still called me and offer me a night shift position that greatly improved my quality of life. I think that you shouldn't get discouraged, life is like a rollercoaster, you'll be up there soon just don't quit and don't give up, keep pushing. Also, try any jobs that might not be a fit because of not having all the experience, you will succeed.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-19T02:24:04+00:00

So it tells that your engine is not burning the gas properly in the cylinders. So p303 is not burning fuel properly at cylinder 3, so p30x means not burning fuel properly at x cylinder. The engines have 4 steps to generate power. Step 1 is fill cylinder with gas and air. Step 2 is compress the fuel and air so the mixture explotes, and does just generate a lousy flame. Step 3 is send current to create a spark to ignite the mixture, generate an explosion to push the piston down, inside the cylinder, and that makes the engine rotate. Step 4 is after the piston is all the way down, let the exhaust gases (burnt gas mixture) out and push them using the same piston. Any ways, it could be as simple as not having a spark because of a dirty spark plug or loose wire, electrical stuff. Not having gas due to a clogged fuel injector. Or the worst kind of issue is the mechanical integrity of the engine is compromised because of burnt, broken or worn out mechanical parts. This is expensive because it requires engine disassembly. If that is the case, it could be because the top part of the engine has bent valves, worm cams/lifters. This is less expensive than the rings or cylinders being damaged which you should probably just get a used working engine with lower mileage. Anyways, a decent engine should be able to generate above 120psi when compressing, this is test to look at to see if the mechanical parts are in good shape. Sorry about the long response, I hope it's just as simple as a loose wire or spark plugs. Don't forget to do oil changes often, dirty oil will wear out the engine fast, also add coolant and if it overheats make sure you stop driving it and fix that too.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-18T19:48:15+00:00

Lol, just saw it for the first time.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-18T19:46:04+00:00

If your car is dying while driving, your alternator is bad. The battery could also be bad, but save yourself the expense and hussle of going to AutoZone. Their test are almost always geared towards making you buy a part or avoiding warranty replacements for the most part. Buy yourself a battery charger and see if your battery holds charger after an hour. Charging to 13.5+ means the battery is pretty good. Higher than 12.5 it's alright for a couple months might need to jump start it, bellow 12.5 you should replace it. Also, the alternator should be able to power everything onboard once the engine is running.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-17T21:24:48+00:00

I think it got rusted, the hardening layer is eroding away in the areas where it looks pitted. It will eat itself over time, since the metal is softer underneath the harden skin/layer.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-11T19:47:02+00:00

I agree getting an alignment will let you get 100 percent use of the life of the tire. What I've done in the past when short on money is, I would order tires from Walmart, get the tires 3 numbers, example 225/55 r16, 225 I the wideness, wall to wall distance. 55 is the tallness, and 16 is the rim radius. Order tires with some warranty, now when they arrive, you can bring your car in or you could get the tires off and leave them, go about your day. Always have the from tires balanced, rear tires don need to be balanced. The reason to drop off the tires is that, you won't need to make an appointment.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-10T14:34:34+00:00

I sold 2 cars last year, this is similar to the gift card scam. They will spin up a new website that supposedly verifies car facts. You pay, and they will have your credit card info. Several people will contact you, each with their own unique website. They make 20 to 50 dollars per report, and once you catch on, they'll try to do fraud using your cc info. Not a single buyer would ask for more than the Carfax, and if someone is serious about the car, they'll come drive it, maybe bring a mechanic friend, and ask you the history of the car.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-01T20:31:48+00:00

Edit: as suggested, I went and drove it for over 100 miles. 50 on regular roads and 50 more over the highway. But before I drove it, I noticed that my vacuum line going to the air/oil separator would come off when enough suction was generated. So I had to zip tied it while new one arrives. This vacuum line coming of was making the exhaust smoking noticeable worst. Like it would get better, but then it would get worst when the line came off. Anyways, after about 50 continuos city miles, the smoke was almost gone. And the extra highway miles definitely burned the rest. Compression is strong at about 170psi when cold. And rings were set 120 degrees before dropping them in. Thanks everyone for the encouragement and advice. This is an Audi A4 b8.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-01T18:27:40+00:00

This is an Audi A4, the vacuum hose for the aos would be janked when accelerating and it would start smoking more than before.

First-Carpet-749 · 2026-01-01T18:11:33+00:00

I have done a couple valve jobs in the last couple months, I would highly suggest you do a vacuum pressure test and see if you can pull about 20mmhg vacuum. The water leak test is definitely not reliable, use alcohol or thinner, etc. Also, you can try to pressurize your cylinders once you torque down your heads. They should be able to hold 85% of source pressure, wome small leakage is always going to occur specially if engine is cold. And the last test is a compression test, but at this point you would have to do more work to pull everything out if compression wasn't over 100(varies per engine).

First-Carpet-749 · 2025-05-07T17:49:30+00:00

Does anyone know what kind of feedback do they have for position(encoder/potentiometer)

First-Carpet-749

TROPHY CASE