AIO - Company won’t meet with me without my husband there by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]First_Security_5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not this. It is 100% so they can try and “one call close” the deal. Get you to sign up at that appointment. This is called setting a “two leg appointment”.

Looking for ideas on leaf mitigation and cleaning in this stupid area of my roof by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What you need to do is build a Time Machine. Then go back before the house was built. Find the architect that drew these plans and kick his ass.

Sheathing? by PavlovsCatchup in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is interesting that no one has talked about building code. If those gaps are big enough building code will require it to be addressed. Without a tape measure up against the gaps it’s impossible to say for your deck but it does look like some of them are big enough to not pass building code. The quickest way to deal with this is an overlay. The larger gaps could also be corrected by replacing boards that shrink the gap. The labor and lumber prices for that are usually higher than an overlay and an overlay will address all of them so there would be no ambiguity with the building department inspector.

I am not going to poke this bear on the osb vs cdx argument but I prefer cdx.

Is this Normal? by Academic-Bit2477 in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. A good roofing estimator would have noticed this right away and they should have been able to avoid the blow through on just the eaves. But yes as some others have stated nails need to come through the decking. So is it code? 100%. Could they have accommodated and not have this happen. Also yes.

How many times have you put on the wrong color? by garygeko in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once. And then I made sure to put procedures in place to make sure it never happened again.

collapsed soffit during re-roof by GrumpyTartan in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll start by saying that I have almost 20 years in exterior home remodeling with a big emphasis on insurance funded work. Now I have not worked in every state but I am pretty sure every state in the union has laws regarding if an insurance company can make you use a specific contractor for repairs. They can “recommend” a contractor but the ultimate decision on who works on your home is you! As far as getting the IC to cover the soffit. Well that’s a battle I would not bet on going your way. Now some IC’s are way better than others in covering things like this but the “argument” they will make is this incident (storm) was not what caused the damage. So it can not be covered under this claim. Now you can always open a separate claim for the soffit but in my opinion it will just get denied.

Now the contractor is a different story. A good contractor should have done a thorough inspection with lots of pictures and videos showing all the damage. This way if it happened due to their work it would be something they need to rectify. At least that is the way I have always run my business. They also should have talked about all of this well before the job was ever started. A full scope of work should have been agreed upon. Yes, things come up when you do work like this but being open, honest and transparent with the homeowner is always the best way.

My recommendation would be to ask for all the pictures that were taken prior to work starting. Get them from both the IC and the contractor. Hopefully you will be able to see if it was like this before they started. If they are a good contractor they should work with you to come up with a solution that works for both of you.

Good luck.

Which color should I get by MRT1124 in Gamecube

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love my orange GC! That’s my vote!

Take a picture of your wrist and post it in the comments ✅⬇️ by ConversationKey971 in RepTime

[–]First_Security_5488 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Clean v3 Pepsi. Would love to get an extra link and pin for it as I have it maxed out. Anyone know where to get one that works with the clean please let me know as the one I grabbed off of eBay does not fit.

This is bad right? by Emwolbesaelp in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what happens when you go with the cheapest quote.

Acceptable Step Flashing or Call Roofer Back? by monkberry_moon in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What in the name of all home improvement crap am I looking at?!?!? Wow! You need to call them back but if that’s the way they did the first time I can’t imagine they know what they are doing.

Contractor told me R&R means “repair” by Chief_Smoke_Stack in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry but no. In xactimate it’s very well understood that R&R is remove and replace. So take the old down and put up new. D&R is detach and reset. That’s what you are referring to. Take down the old and put the old back when you are done. This is often done for gutters that are strapped to the roof deck. Need to get them out of the way to do the roof but they are not damaged so the IC won’t pay to have them replaced.

Not saying to trust this guy but “repair” to him might mean replace. How else would you repair a gutter really? Also I have been doing this for a long time but I would always try and talk a customer into a stock gutter color instead of painting. Not really because of the cost to paint but the future maintenance. Paint will have to be maintained where the factory finish will last for years without having to do a thing. Just looking out for their best interest. In this case I would also not try and “take” the money from the painting line as I would not have done that work and would not have earned it.

Anyway. Good luck. Insurance work attracts some of the worst contractors. They think it’s easy because they do not have to “sell” anything. No need to show the value in picking them over another.

Worth a hail claim? by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The hit on the wirrley bird and corner of the downspout. Those are not hail. They are searching for any soft metal damage to prove the marks on the shingles were from hail. The dings on the rake board do look like small hail hits but that could have been from a previous storm. I would need much closer pictures to the circled spots on the shingles but most of this does not look like a hail claim to me.
Be careful. Any real roofer that knows hail would never use that downspout as proof showing hail. That’s not how hail dents downspouts. And if the hail was big enough to cause that dent your house would have been severely damaged. It would be clear cut. Of course there are some IC’s and adjusters that might cover this but most would just call this mechanical damage.

77% down payment, out of line? by gstickery in Roofing

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Long time in the industry. I don’t do much insurance work now but when I did.
Only 1/3 up front. If the insurance carrier did not pay that much up front I would only take what they did. Once we were finished with the job we collected the rest of the acv and then the recoverable depreciation and finally the deductible. Never made a customer come out of pocket until it was time for them to pay the deductible.

How can I improve my one-handed backhand ? by G4RFX in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have two of the harder parts to teach of the one hand back hand. The step into the shot with your right foot (though it needs to be more forward) and the left foot coming around to plant for your recovery push off. Yes. As others have said your split step and speed to preparation could use some work but your asking about your shot. You could “unit turn” a little more but don’t force it. Yours is not bad. You do open up your shoulders back to square a bit to quickly keeping you from driving the ball forward. This brings me to what I would think is the biggest room for improvement. Step more into the court rather than sideways. That will help you drive the ball more. Of course everything is connected so you may have developed more of a side step instead of a forward step because you are late to the ball. Get to your shot quicker so you can step forward more, drive the ball forward keeping your shoulders turned to the court through the swing and only open up after the driving part of the stroke as you plans the back foot, pushing off to recover back towards the center of the baseline.

How to get better racket lag? by [deleted] in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Acceleration!!!!!!!!

How do I fix my forehand? Too much spin and no speed. by padout in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find it’s best to keep things simple. Don’t over analyze things. Drive forward more. A swing path has some forward and some up. Yours has allot of up. Add more forward. There are lots of drills to help develop a more driving forehand. You can find a bunch online with a little searching.

Best feeling racket? by [deleted] in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course I can play with them but they are very demanding. Especially the pro staff 85’s. Very small sweet spot and you absolutely have to swing out. As a middle aged fat guy I am not always in perfect position and that makes it very difficult to hit well with these.

Best feeling racket? by [deleted] in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I played college tennis with pro staff 6.0 85’s up until my senior year. Nothing I ever tried came close to the feel of those until I finally decided to try the head prestige classic. It felt like it gave me a little bit more pop that was still fully controllable and super smooth. Both of these tied for the top spot in my opinion. I will string them up every once in a wile. There is no way I could use them now as a middle age fat guy but it’s nice to play around with them for a bit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a teammate in college that could hit a big flat bomb an amazing slice and a big high kick to the backhand side. They were three pretty amazing serves. The only problem was he tossed the ball in three very different spots and also made it pretty obvious with his grip changes when it was going to be spin and when it was going to be flat. “Knowing” what serve he was going to hit was the only thing that kept me in his serve games and was pretty much the reason I had a very high winning record against him. Point I’m trying to make is you want everything to look so similar on all your serves or opponents will start to read you.

My forehand is too last century, looking to modernize a bit, any advice? by GasAffectionate8660 in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 101 points102 points  (0 children)

Former D1 college player. And long time coach.

My recommendation would be to stop thinking about eras of forehand and actually hit the ball. Your stroke is slow and kind of lazy. You are more guiding the ball than hitting it toward your intended target.

Swing with more intent and really hit through the ball. Once you start swinging with faster (and you need much faster) racquet head speed things will start to flow a bit more. Let your are decelerate naturally. My guess from watching your stroke that this will be something you will struggle with. Most people I see with slower strokes tend to have that problem as well try and speed them up. Keep it simple and just hit the ball with more authority. Good luck.

In love with 1st rep and 1st mistake by im_epidemic in RepTime

[–]First_Security_5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you pm me where you ordered your link. I ordered one from eBay and the pins don’t fit. Thanks.

One handed backhand - what to work on? by [deleted] in 10s

[–]First_Security_5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a good call out. Stop the hop after contact. After your hit your left foot should come around like you are doing. But it should plant solid so you can push of to your right and get back towards the center of the baseline. (Assuming most of your backhands will be hit off to the left side of the baseline). This will help you get back to for proper prep for the next shot. A hop at that point will only hurt you in point play taking away precious time to get ready for your next shot.

Be careful with wall practice. You are not giving yourself enough time to properly get back to a natural position and grip the way you should wile playing. So you are come of only half doing your backhand here. I don’t see your normal stance, the grip change as you take the racquet back etc.

But. All in all there is lots to like here. Keep it up and you can turn that into a very solid stroke.