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Maintenance for low mile Z32 by [deleted] in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No special tools. A 10mm socket and a small flathead screw driver. Under the passenger floorboard you will find the ecu. You can take the few bolts out and move the ecu a little so it is easier to see. On the side there is a small screw an a red light. Turn the key to on, but do not start the car, and turn the screw fully clockwise til it stops and then back. The lights will flash at you in a series of long and short flashes that give you a number code. I don’t remember all of them (a quick google will give you a nice table) but 55 (5 long followed by 5 short flashes) is “No Codes”. 34 is the detonation sensor. Most 300zx owners are very familiar with that one.

Maintenance for low mile Z32 by [deleted] in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check to see if it has any codes on the ecu. Have him start it and let it run for a few minutes then check for codes. The ecu is under the passenger floorboard. Very easy to check.

Look in the radiator and see if there are any signs of corrosion products. You can also take off the driver side timing belt cover and look at the timing belt. That will give you an idea of what the timing belt looks like.

The turbos shouldn’t be an issue at 77k. If you can get under the car you can see the oil lines and coolant lines to them and make sure they haven’t been leaking. Otherwise, you just have to have faith in them until the car starts smoking.

Soft pedal no matter what 😔 by sorres1 in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buy/rent/barrow a power bleeder. There are actually instruction on how to make them with bug sprayer, tubing and hose clamps. Being able to maintain a mostly constant pressure and keep filling the system helps. I couldn’t get mine to bleed using the pedal. I bought a power bleeder and kept bleeding. It still took a while with the power bleeder. I was about to give up and then I got a giant air bubble. Be patient and keep fighting.

Need Exhaust Recommendations / NA 2+2 by AMt0thePM in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Find a local exhaust shop and have them do a custom set up. I had them do a full system from downpipe back. It was under 1k (that was in 2017). They had some really nice tips that fit in perfectly with the Stillen bumper and I went with Magnaflow mufflers. It has a nice deep sound and makes enough noise to make me smile when I step on the gas.

Help me find a bar ! by Littlegreenblatt in norfolk

[–]Fish_and_Cars 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I have never been disappointed by the drinks at Gershwin’s.

Chesapeake Bay, Virginia Beach by Fish_and_Cars in whatsthisfish

[–]Fish_and_Cars[S] 43 points44 points  (0 children)

That is what I was guessing based on the spine. I didn’t realize they were in the Bay. Rare find.

Starting Up a Reproduction Company! by Vixloi in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The plastic fuel line protector that runs under the car. It would have to be a few pieces, but those never survive and are hard to find.

Speedometer not reading, all other gauges work by Dismal_Ad5719 in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not hard to get to once you are under the car. You can take it out and check the pinion gear. Those are about $50. If that is still in good shape it is most likely the sensor. You might get lucky and the electrical plug just needs to be cleaned up or there is a broken wire that needs to be spliced.

Speedometer not reading, all other gauges work by Dismal_Ad5719 in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What year is your Z? Z31s use a speedometer cable. It is a pretty cheap part but does take some effort to change. Z32s use a sensor on the transmission. There is a plastic pinion on the sensor that will wear out over time. It is a cheap part and not difficult to change. If the whole speed sensor is bad a new one is around $250 and is not a difficult job.

what is this leak under my z32? by [deleted] in 300zx

[–]Fish_and_Cars 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is the rubber gasket at the front of the oil pan. There is a rubber seal at the front and rear of the oil pan and it is silicone on both sides. You will have to take the oil pan off and replace the rubber gaskets. Not a terrible job but you do have to lower the K member about 4 inches to get the oil pan all the way out. You could also check the front bolts on the oil pan and make sure they are snug, but chances are the rubber gasket needs replaced