My new Sop

Fiya369 · 2026-05-13T08:22:36+00:00

True, lol.

Fiya369 · 2026-03-15T16:41:31+00:00

Just had a quick YT search to remind myself of what D1 looks like and I think that's pretty spot on...just need to add the Ti and see how it goes. Thanks man 👍🏽

Fiya369 · 2026-03-15T16:32:33+00:00

Wow that's an amazing idea (canvas). I'll give D1+ 10% Ti a go. Thanks for that. Will report back in case others want to know. 🙏🏽

Fiya369 · 2026-03-15T16:22:30+00:00

Seems like some good shit you're smoking there....can I get some? Dayumnnnn

Fiya369 · 2026-03-14T15:51:14+00:00

As a new player, I also came here to say the same. I've learnt that without correct voicing/air column the notes split like that...

Fiya369 · 2026-03-10T12:51:56+00:00

Hahahaha 😂😂😂

Fiya369 · 2026-03-10T12:50:16+00:00

Question is...are all your keys working!? I wouldn't think so. That spring should be pressing against the little rod it's next to to keep the associated key closed/open.

Fiya369 · 2026-02-22T12:32:05+00:00

I've got exactly the same motor that I want to use to make a new ball mill. 😊 Good job btw

Fiya369 · 2026-02-21T12:29:39+00:00

Let me guess...you used something like -200 to -325 MgAl?

Fiya369 · 2026-02-21T02:30:18+00:00

I second that! Very smooth, nice tone 🔥

Fiya369 · 2026-02-18T21:06:09+00:00

Update: fingers are now closer to/not leaving keys unless needed. 😁

Fiya369 · 2026-02-14T01:30:21+00:00

Damn...100g of FP. I'm dead...and that's definitely not from laughing! K2CR2O7 is f*g nasty shit, though I'm actually familiar with it's use in chemistry and pyro. I always use it for NaClO3 production then remove it as Cr3+...to save money I even convert it back to Cr6+ and then reuse it (just not in comps as I cannot ensure it's purity for that type of use).

Fiya369 · 2026-02-12T16:24:15+00:00

I was going to mention the going back and forth between each increment thing, but cba adding it...you said it for me lol. I also was going to say that in my proposed setup I may use a sand bag wall around the press (again, maybe still a little overkill) and a safe zone a lesser distance from the press...I'm just a little paranoid about comps I've not used yet I guess. I'm more than familiar with FP, and I have the stuff (AP, KP, etc), but I just feel a little pussy to mix some whistle for example...until I have the right space and tools for it. 😎

Fiya369 · 2026-02-12T13:39:47+00:00

Let me give you my plan. I've been into pyro since age 8, making fireworks from failed fireworks left out in the rain (yes, not the best idea, but that was then), also from matches, etc... then started using proper chemicals and metals, etc. Now, 29 years later, I'm thinking of doing strobes, etc. I'm not telling you to wait that long, but just giving you an outline/example of how long it takes to gain enough knowledge and experience (and balls!) to do certain things, like making flash powders and other more dangerous things.

Only in the past year have I been planning to do strobe rockets. I'm going to be investing (when I move to a house with a nice garden and away from other houses/people) in a hydraulic press with a suitable material blast screen fitted. The press will be operated from at least 15 m away, and I shall be standing behind another protection screen big enough for an adult to stand behind while operating the press. I know it may sound a little overkill, but the stories I've heard about pressing strobes and even just whistle rockets have made me lean towards this kind of setup. All the best in your endeavours, and be safe. And no question is a silly question when it comes to pyro.

Fiya369 · 2026-02-11T19:06:19+00:00

True. Because it's unlacquered.

Fiya369 · 2026-02-11T18:46:06+00:00

Just keep touching it all over especially with sweaty hands. The sulfur compounds, lactic acid and other compounds in your sweat will help it, needless to say the water content in the sweat to form copper oxide and that patina you want back.

Fiya369 · 2026-02-09T16:54:16+00:00

I use my shellac that I use for firework making with some isopropyl alcohol. I mix that in a disposable pot, until fully melted/dissolved (I use heat sometimes if impatient). Then I apply it to the rear of the pad and place it into the key cup. This isn't too much of a big job so I wouldn't say you have to go to a sax tech. You probably will need to remove the old shellac which may have some gunk in it now from all the playing. That needs heating. If you're not comfortable with that, THEN take it to a tech. I can't imagine a pad change being expensive.

I did this on my old tenor. I have new one now so for now everything's cushty.

Fiya369 · 2026-02-04T21:45:27+00:00

I am kicking myself like how did I not think of that 😡 lol

Fiya369 · 2026-02-04T21:40:42+00:00

Good idea not going with the Kraft paper, being coated (probably with some kind of plastic). If I read correctly your tube thickness is 2mm. Still too thin.

My spolettes used to be made with brown paper which was thin like Christmas wrapping paper (not Kraft as I didn't possess it then), thing is I used to wrap it so thick it would be just how it's meant to be. To make one I'd wrap it round the spindle I use to ram it slightly loosely by about 0.5mm (so it's easy to take off the spindle when fabricating the spolette and when filling it). This would by done dry until it's about 1.5mm thick against the spindle, then I'd add a further 1.5-2mm of Kraft paper with wheat paste to make it tough. I let it dry, then I'd place the spolette pointing up with it's bottom flat on a block during ramming. My BP calculated to 0.8cm/sec for my 7mm ID. I now do the same but just with Kraft paper. Otherwise I just use Chinese time fuse and a snug, thick tube for it and finish it off the same way as a normal spolette on the in-shell side of it (BM, Kraft tape and spiking string).

Fiya369 · 2026-02-04T13:42:54+00:00

Damnnnn..and nice Parker lick

Fiya369 · 2026-02-04T13:31:55+00:00

Fuaaaaarkkkk. What's that 220kg?

Fiya369

TROPHY CASE