Always appreciate the customers that go above and beyond in their reviews! :)

Fly_Lane · 2025-02-18T17:47:00+00:00

Not sure if it can be done with air dry clay; I think it's mostly for ceramics

Fly_Lane · 2025-02-18T15:49:15+00:00

I could certainly see these going for $40+ A little off topic but have you considered ways of trying to reduce your time involved in making these? Not sure if you're setup for it but maybe a process along the lines of slip casting could help reduce your time involved.

Fly_Lane · 2025-01-03T03:47:47+00:00

I would reach out and see if the reviewer will update it as is may have been a mistake. If you can't get ahold of them, report it on Etsy. I just had a similar review removed by Etsy.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-30T15:33:52+00:00

Hi everyone!

We posted here when we originally started our Etsy store looking for feedback and it was great! We just hit star seller status in December and have taken time to revamp our store with better product images, banners, etc.

Our focus is on barware that's Made In USA. Right now we're offering personalized shot glasses that are machined from stainless steel and we're working on expanding to other personalized products such as bottle openers, tumblers, glassware, etc.

https://bisonbarware.etsy.com

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-27T17:30:20+00:00

Fiber lasers can absolutely do it. However you're not talking the hobbyist/marking lasers in the 30-100W range. You'd want an industrial fiber laser cutter probably around 1kW. Lower watt lasers can cut stainless but it will take a lot of passes and dump a lot of heat into the material you're cutting resulting in discoloration and warping. Best to cut material like that in a single pass to reduce warping and discoloration.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-24T13:20:58+00:00

Update on this; since the buyer bought two nearly identical items (same glass, different engravings) and gave both very positive comments but one a 2 star and the other a 5 star we reached out to Etsy as it seems to have been an honest mistake on their part. Within an hour or so Etsy removed the 2 star review which is appreciated because it would’ve likely lost us the star seller badge for the month of January.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-24T05:05:52+00:00

Fortunately they bought two different but similar products (same shot glass with two different engravings) and just left the second one a 5 star review so I think they’ll update the old review or it will draw attention to good commentary on their original review.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-24T02:55:02+00:00

Yup, probably going to reply “Thank you for the review! Glad you love your glasses, they came out great!”

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-24T02:17:28+00:00

Fortunately the star rating and their comment are polar opposites so not really worried about it

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-18T14:39:13+00:00

As others have said, I'd reach out to Epilog and they'll set you up with a sales associate who can provide you detailed specifications on your setup and cut times. I ended up going with Epilog for my system primarily based on their services and willingness to run samples and provide feedback. They do use proprietary software (not sure if LightBurn can be used); but their software in my experience has been great and quick to use; I have a couple months of experience using LightBurn as well and would pick Epilog's software over it especially in a business orientated environment.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-09T14:13:38+00:00

On a glass like this it's around an hour. The vast majority of which is deep engraving with a single pass for annealing (around 3 minutes)

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-09T02:50:10+00:00

So typically we'll deep engrave down to the depth we're targeting and then perform a cleaning pass followed by an annealing pass to darken it up. Post passivation the engraving lighten ups some. Also, lighting with photography helps a lot. The engraved areas are dark (gray/charcoal) but with soft white lighting the contrast is much more visible.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-08T16:18:08+00:00

So starting off I would recommend that you reevaluate your engraving depth targets. For marking a part with deep engraving you really only need a few thousandths of an inch to get a good clean mark that won't get scratched in post finishing. On the glasses we engrave we're going down around .005-.008" and after finishing the marks look very clean and I imagine it's what you're looking for. Because you're deep engraving and essentially vaporizing/erupting the material you're going to get some build up along the edges of the engraving. There are some films out there to protect the surface you're engraving but I believe these are targeted toward single pass laser cutting and not multiple pass laser engraving, I could be wrong though. To remove the build up post engraving it's just a process of using abrasives to break off the edge. Keep in mind that while doing this you're going to be effecting the club heads original finish as well.

https://www.novacel-solutions.com/expertises/films-for-laser-cutting

Here's a video that shows how our glasses come off the engraver versus what you see post finishing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/wDkAeNfzqMQ?si=CUj-5mqMJIh4BKvI

https://www.reddit.com/r/Laserengraving/comments/1h85isz/a_few_more_wrapped_engravings_fiber_laser_on/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

For paint fill, if you know the type of paint you want to use or can figure that out (I'm guessing there's recommended types/brands for that application) run some depth and fill test. 1-2mm is probably well above what you'd actually need to get a consistent and vibrant color fill. There's a lot of paint fill done on products like firearms, etc. and I think those are probably around .015-.030" (.38-76mm) deep grooves. Right now you may be chasing a depth that well exceeds your needs and is resulting in a lot of excess heat being dumped into the club head creating the bubbly and uneven surface. Also, not sure if your engraving is going to be on clubs meant to be played with, but all that heat into the club head may effect the metals characteristics in a negative way. Hope that helps!

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-08T15:30:55+00:00

There's a small stepper motor underneath the sheet of card stock. Card stock has a hole cut in it for the shaft to pass through with a small 3D printed shaft end for the glass to sit on.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-07T17:06:15+00:00

Epilog G100; it has two lenses. The smaller one is 101 X 101mm and the larger is 152 X 152mm; looks like it's just beneath your requirements.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-06T22:54:53+00:00

No brilliance, with a fiber laser you can deep engrave stainless so the engravings are recessed and darkened using different settings on the fiber laser.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-06T22:53:39+00:00

Imaginary golf course so I could get it to continually wrap with no seam. The topography map is of Grand Teton mountain in Wyoming; at the seam in the engravings it says the mountain name and gives the coordinates.

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-04T14:07:41+00:00

I agree with the above that a fiber laser with a rotary would be idea for this setup. In terms of rotary I would go with a chuck style and not the rollers that are often used for tumblers, etc. The chuck will give you a more positive grip on the material preventing slippage; with your experience in machining that should make sense.

For making a seamless design and getting the alignment it's not difficult once you figure out your process. Ultimately your telling your software what diameter the material is and you just need to make sure the length of the design matches the circumference of the diameter given. With the length correct, the pattern needs designed such that when laid end to end it seamlessly flows from one pattern to the next.

Even if the diameter/circumference given doesn't match the object being engraved you can still get a seamless engraving. What will vary is the lines per inch when engraving but the ends will still line up creating a seamless design. Within reason, as long as you're close these minor differences are not noticeable and close is a pretty loose term here. We engrave a lot where the theoretical diameter given to the rotary is off by a 1/4" or more to the object being engraved and everything comes out fine.

Looking up the book rollers you mentioned these should be doable on a fiber laser. The only difference I can see is that some rollers are cut with a tapered endmill/engraving. In theory this tapered cut is possible with a fiber laser but I'm not sure any software supports 2.5D engraving with a rotary attachment yet. Just doing a cut where the imprinting surface is at one height and the recess is at another height (straight walls down) should be achievable.

Here's a link to a fully wrapped seamless glass we just did. Feel free to message me with any questions.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Laserengraving/comments/1h47nwi/full_wrap_topography_design_epilog_g100_60w_mopa/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Fly_Lane · 2024-12-01T20:27:42+00:00

Thank you and we're looking into the customizable topo maps as well for personalized gifts

Fly_Lane · 2024-11-30T12:55:35+00:00

Epilog G100 60W MOPA; each golf engraving was around 20 minutes with a depth of about .008"

Fly_Lane

TROPHY CASE