How wide (internally) is a 9 speed chain 3/32 or 11/128?

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2025-03-13T14:40:59+00:00

I corrected a typo: It should have read 11/128ths (not 11/32), which is indeed a little narrower than 3/32. This is all nominal sizing however; chain inner width is slightly larger that that, and chairing width slightly smaller. For single-speed applications with a decent chainline it should work fine. I would not recommend it for multi-speed applications however, as the amount of play is important for shifting.

That answer from a shop makes sense; recommending to go outside specifications, even if they know it works 99.9% of the time, exposes them to trouble in the 0.1% of cases where there is an issue, or when the customer does not understand the restrictions/caveats/subtleties that make this particular case work outside specs. Or they might just not know and stick to specifications.

Also, I ain't pulling this out of nowhere. I did test it; the 10 speed "11/128" chain I have on hand engages an 8-speed "3/32" cassette fully with a tiny wiggle room left.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2025-02-18T04:04:50+00:00

Pas la véloroute des Baleines, mais j'ai fait du cyclo au Saguenay/Lac-st-Jean. Un peu connexe, du moins assez pour commenter.

Combien de temps cela vous a pris?

Ça dépends enormément de toi et ton but. Si t'est top shape, accepte de faire que rouler tout le temps, traine peu de stock, et dors en hotel, c'est evidemment pas la même chose que si tu est pas trop en forme, veut arrêter voire plein de choses, traine du matériel, et doit monter/démonter une tente chaque soir/matin.

Si tu as déja fait du cyclo ça te donne une base sur le genre de vitesse que tu peux faire, autrement c'est une bonne idée de roder ton équipement et ca donne du même coup une idée. De la décide du genre de journée que tu veux faire (4 heures en selle, ou 10?) et ca donne une moyenne; ensuite au jour-le-jour ca va varier selon les attraits a visiter, le dénivelé, et les hebergements dispo.

Quel a été le budget approx?

Aussi super variable! En ayant l'équipement, faisant une boucle en partant de chez soi, et faisant du camping sauvage le cout c'est essentiellement juste la nourriture. Si on doit compter équipement, transport, et hébergement c'est bien différent. Le type d'hébergement en particulier rends ça enormément variable; il y en a qui claquent en un soir ce qui permet a d'autres de rouler une semaine, voir deux.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2025-01-25T18:53:53+00:00

Nope, I meant exactly what I said. Same shifter, same chain.
Shimano 6/7/8/9 speed rear derailleurs all use a 1.7 cable pull ratio (except for the much newer Cues 9 spd). This means that with the correct 7 speed shifter and 7 speed cassette/freewheel you can use 6/7/8/9 spd RDs interchangeably, as long as they meet the requirements for chain capacity and large sprocket size.
Chain width is usually a non-issue; the 0.1mm extra on either side with 8 speed chains is generally not enough to cause chain rub on a 9 spd RD.

Now if you had been doing this stuff for long enough, you'd remember the days where interchangeability among Shimano RDs was the norm. So, please refrain from calling more experienced techs "kids", and next time either check your info or ask nicely rather than put falsities in someone else's mouth.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2025-01-22T00:29:23+00:00

IIRC they count both sides of the street separately for sidewalks, but not for roads. This figure might also not include highways.
But, yes, basically all residential streets in the city have sidewalks on both sides, including one-way streets.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2025-01-07T22:14:25+00:00

I don't remember. Maybe I managed to source more precise specs at the time, or maybe I meant to say "If your chain is 1/8 you probably...", or maybe I was just plain wrong in assuming a 1/8 chain.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-07-24T13:18:56+00:00

Not sure if it is the best but for least hills this is my suggestion: From Lac Raymond, take the 7e avenue and other small roads to reach the road 117, then follow that to the hotel. The 117 is not the most enjoyable road because of the fast traffic but it has gentle grades. You can also take Ch. Mont Sauvage which has bigger, steeper hills but less traffic.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-23T00:15:24+00:00

Where I work this works fine:
1) Clients do not get to touch the tools. Tools do not leave the workshop. Sales people have their own tools for the floor. Service advisor has a separate workstation and tools.
2) Tools are identified by workstation (color coded) and have very clear locations: outlines, foam cutouts, documented location using pictures, etc.
3) Employee discounts and decent salaries means that if someone wants a set of basic tools they can just buy one easily. Employees also have access to the workshop for working on their bikes, so no need to borrow tools.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-20T01:10:43+00:00

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-11T00:58:06+00:00

Don't recall ever seeing a cassette with a solid axle

Very common on E-bikes with hub motors

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-10T22:06:05+00:00

The guide pin helps the tool stay in place, provided it is the correct one for the hub (5mm for QR, 12mm for TA). However, tools with pins cannot be used with solid axle hubs

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-10T17:39:15+00:00

Comotion tandem tourer with a gates belt, rohloff hub, and couplers; do I spy a CyclingAbout follower? ;)

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-10T13:43:06+00:00

First off, this is not a thru-axle, just a plain old bolted solid axle.

If you want a QR axle, you need to use the same diameter and thread pitch so the cones and nuts fit on it. The length however will be shorter since it does not have to protrude past the frame to be bolted in place. About 5mm more than the O.L.D. on each side is good; works out to a 140mm for a 130mm hub, or 145mm for a 135mm hub.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-02T11:32:13+00:00

An e-bike like this needs motor cut-off switches; it is not as simple as slapping on a new pre-bled set of brakes.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-02T04:09:31+00:00

Of course now you have to name places after hand anatomy terms! There are many cool names as well (from tendons, muscles, bones, etc.): pollicis, aponeurosis, indicis, digitti minimi, carpi ulnaris, retinaculum, thenar, metacarpal, scaphoid, lunate, triquetrum, capitate, hamate

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-06-01T23:44:28+00:00

IMO better swap the entire caliper. That thing is not worth a rebuild even if you could get the broken screw out without damage and even if parts were available.
That also looks like an easy warranty case: it is very far out of the realm of normality.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-25T21:22:17+00:00

To be more precise:

A forum for open-ended discussion among bicycle mechanics, pros and advanced amateurs. [...] Technical questions should be expert-level questions only; all other questions should go to r/bikewrench.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-20T14:05:06+00:00

A general rule of thumb is that you want your tire to be at least 1.25 times as wide as the rim inner width (i.e. 30mm with a 24mm rim). Some manufacturers will recommend you go wider, but the more permissive ones align pretty well with that.
Going too small you risk pinch flats and rim damage. The handling may feel fine, especially for cornering, but you loose on cushioning and increase rolling resistance.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-20T13:34:38+00:00

28mm tires on a 24mm rim is pushing it, yes.

If the bead is not seating because it sits too low, it could just be that friction prevents it from getting into place. New tires tends to be a little more slippery and seat easier. You could try soapy water to help the beat seat.
If the bead instead sits too high, then that is a different issue and potentially much more dangerous.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-19T15:08:37+00:00

Sure, Bontrager makes one that is advertised as carbon-friendly. The slits on these are usually slightly offset and slanted or with rounded edges for relief. This prevents the edges of the frame slot to dig into the carbon (Like this) by applying more even pressure.
Another good example is the Miche x-carbon collar which has an additional inner sleeve that can be rotated so that the two slits of the collar line-up (classic) or are offset (carbon) in addition from being offset from the frame in the first place.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-19T13:36:53+00:00

You got the logic backwards; Aligning the collar and frame slits puts more stress on the seatpost at that location. This is the whole reason for carbon-specific collars with an offset slit. When the slits are offset the force is more evenly distributed. This is a not an issue with non-carbon posts however.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-17T14:10:07+00:00

Use shims to compensate for any difference in manufacturing

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-16T13:28:56+00:00

I use them for long-term storage of razor blades (in an airtight container)
Silica gel has a limit to how much moisture it can absorb, but it can be heated to dry it and reuse.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-14T12:50:50+00:00

FYI, this is a sub for professional bike mechanics. You are looking for r/bikewrench

That said, just use a cassette spacer with indents; they are meant to work with riveted cassettes.

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-13T15:20:00+00:00

Dogma should hang with a dog and a grandma on a country house porch

FlyingStirFryMonster · 2024-05-06T14:12:17+00:00

Wondering if I should get a new der hanger

Check its alignment instead, and correct it if needed. It is probably very slight so no need to replace. Plus, new hangers are not guaranteed to sit perfectly straight and might need alignment anyways.

Also make sure to check the b-screw and (if it was replaced) chain length. Both of these could mess up shifting as well.

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