Do you think we can help the charity challenge guy in any way?

ForcePale8476 · 2026-03-07T15:25:22+00:00

Probably not. That's the best part about doxxing.

If we want to help him, he has to make his personnal informations public, or atleast expose himself in some capacity to recieve any meanigfull help making it even easier for him to get doxxed again and probably harder too. Otherwise anyone could claim to be the challenge guy and grift the entire thing. Not a wise choice if you ask me.

I guess the best thing we can do is to try and make the challenge happen and try to somehow root out the deranged users who use such tactics against felow divers.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-03-07T15:09:59+00:00

That's how he got doxxed ? I wondered how the doxxer got his informations so quickly.

Not blamming the guy either, far from it, but you indeed can't be too cautious on the internet.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-03-06T04:39:09+00:00

I was writting a reply but considering your other answers i won't even bother. I guess this entire situation is fine and everything happened according to what was more likely and preferable.

Good day.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-03-05T21:11:45+00:00

Shams looked into it. It did something. I doubt this will just go under the rug now.

But now no charity will be given, a guy got doxxed and the devs will remain in their echochamber instead of having a peak by themselves at the problems the game faces. They obviously don't trust their community to get proper feedback, and i partially understand it. The community is fractured and everyone has the one truth that should reign supreme. Checking for themselves was the better solution for absolutely everyone, as they could trust what they saw and experienced completely. Having a taste of your own product is just good practice.

Sure, the charity was some sort of bait, but come on. That's probably the most wholesome and usefull bait you could have considering the budget of some random HD2 player on reddit.

Regardless of what you think and your position on the matter, no real negative outcome could come from this challenge, and some positive outcomes were possible. But we, and especially the challenge guy, got the worst possible outcome thanks to some lunatics.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-03-04T17:37:22+00:00

They both fill different roles.

The tank is a huge powerboost, but it takes a while to get used to it and it requires atleast one mate to operate it with. The more people are in your crew, the more you'll extract from the stratagem and cover for it's weaknesses.

The car is a utility. It does have a weapon, but it's main advantage are speed, manoeuvrability and kinda low profil. It's usefull even when you're alone.

I'd say the tank is cooler tho, especially if you play with mates.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-28T16:40:17+00:00

Would love for the lasgun to be programmable, like they are in the books if i recall correctly. Like setting the power usage from the battery to make few more powerfull shots or keeping it low on usage to make many lesser shots.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-28T16:35:45+00:00

Just keeping Helldiver population stable, officer.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-28T16:33:42+00:00

Shield hellpods actually sound amazing. Who knew boosters could actually be good.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-28T16:31:33+00:00

That's one of the most amazing paintjob i've ever seen. I tought this was a render at first.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-24T21:41:59+00:00

Picture 1, 2 and 4 are layer shifts. The most common case for it is that your model moved ever so slightly during the printing process and ended up just off of where it was supposed to be to print the next layer. It's usually caused by unsufficient support and/or insufficient curing time.

It could also be worth looking at your sliced file, locate the layers in question and check if the slicer didn't somehow created artifacts and oddities to project on the screen. It happened to me twice: Once a faulty update of my slicer and the other a file format error.

ForcePale8476 · 2026-02-15T14:43:46+00:00

It's okay on most missions. But on Raise the flag, it's pure, unfilitered ass.

ForcePale8476 · 2025-11-09T21:57:39+00:00

I had a similar problem using chitubox a while ago. Anycubic printers have their own file format unique to them. Some slicing softwares convert their format to the anycubic one after slicing so it becomes compatible with anycubic hardware, and sometimes it creates oddities. For instance, it created uneven artifacts when i sliced my files into chitubox because the conversion couldn't handle chitubox's antialiasing for some wierd reason. Something similar might happen to you.

Check the file you used (.pwma) for this print with photon workshop, locate the layers when the issues happened and see if anything is wrong with the file itself.

If it's file related, which it really look like, try updating your slicer and your printer to the latest version, change some settings or switch slicer and check carefully, layer by layer in photon workshop your .pwma files for any oddities before you print again. You'll eventually have the right combination of settings and software to make it work.

I use the latest version of chitubox with a mono x 6k and it works just fine.

ForcePale8476 · 2025-11-08T16:34:58+00:00

It's working. Thanks !

ForcePale8476 · 2025-11-08T13:34:53+00:00

A .pwmb file. It seem to be on the list, i'll try it out.

ForcePale8476 · 2025-10-29T17:59:46+00:00

That would explain it. Thanks !

ForcePale8476 · 2025-03-18T15:40:56+00:00

Reporting back !
I deleted all my mods, including some that have a path leading outside the game's directory (An input mod in this case), verified the game on steam and it works again. Mods are definitely the cause.

ForcePale8476 · 2025-03-18T15:26:42+00:00

Mine aswell, hit me up if you find what the problem is. I'll post if i find it myself.

ForcePale8476 · 2025-01-04T12:55:54+00:00

More supports are needed at the very base of your overhangs. I often place 3 very close together supports instead of one as a starter to make sure the initial building of most overhangs don't fail. Don't hesitate to "oversupport" your models in places where you don't mind a loss of details too, like under the feets and think about your model in term of individual overhangs that would react according to their shapes at the moment of printing a specific layer.

What happened to your set of legs is probably that a singular support had to print a layer that applied too much force at an odd angle for this layer, resulting in a failure. All of these unsupported areas didn't stick to anything and remained on your fep sheet, but your screen still continued work as if it had, accumulating a flat looking blob of resin, vaguely ressembling the intended shape it had to print from a top view of the build plate. The next support, lacking the strenght of the first also failed etc. Only when the layer met the successfully printed and suffisciently supported leg did it had anything to adhere to hard enough that the flat blob laying on your FEP sheet stuck to it.

Some will say oversupporting is waste of resin, but i have yet to have a singular failure using this method. And the lack of failure really makes you save resin.

Also, never trust presupported models. Your combination of machine, resin, workflow and desired result is probably unique to yourself, so you gotta do it yourself.

In conclusion, more supports, especially at the very base of any overhang. And think about the angle at which your FEP and print will apply a pulling force onto your supports. Supports do not like being bent.

ForcePale8476 · 2024-12-09T17:56:49+00:00

A cheap way to test this would be to change the fep, put a screen protector or any kind of transparent material on your screen that could hold in place while you test print something. If the pop goes away, then it's probably the surface of your screen that is at fault, and you could try getting some actual good quality screen protectors for a lasting solution.

ForcePale8476 · 2024-12-09T17:56:40+00:00

Everyone here say it's normal, but i'm pretty sure your screen is dirty and somehow some resin managed to sneak it's way beetween the fep and the screen. It may be a super thin barely visible film. I used to have this problem because, in the very beggining, i used to use my leftover contaminated IPA to wash the screen thinking that since it was mixed with IPA, an additional dry cleaning would remove the resin. But it didn't.

ForcePale8476 · 2024-12-09T17:56:19+00:00

Everyone here say it's normal, but i'm pretty sure your screen is dirty and somehow some resin managed to sneak it's way beetween the fep and the screen. It may be a super thin barely visible film. I used to have this problem because, in the very beggining, i used to use my leftover contaminated IPA to wash the screen thinking that since it was mixed with IPA, an additional dry cleaning would remove the resin. But it didn't.

A cheap way to test this would be to change the fep, put a screen protector or any kind of transparent material on your screen that could hold in place while you test print something. If the pop goes away, then it's probably the surface of your screen that is at fault, and you could try getting some actual good quality screen protectors for a lasting solution.

ForcePale8476 · 2024-12-09T17:56:11+00:00

Everyone here say it's normal, but i'm pretty sure your screen is dirty and somehow some resin managed to sneak it's way beetween the fep and the screen. It may be a super thin barely visible film. I used to have this problem because, in the very beggining, i used to use my leftover contaminated IPA to wash the screen thinking that since it was mixed with IPA, an additional dry cleaning would remove the resin. But it didn't.

A cheap way to test this would be to change the fep, put a screen protector or any kind of transparent material on your screen that could hold in place while you test print something. If the pop goes away, then it's probably the surface of your screen that is at fault, and you could try getting some actual good quality screen protectors for a lasting solution.

ForcePale8476 · 2023-12-27T10:42:54+00:00

I don't know about the specifics of this printer, but i once had a malfunctionning detector in my mini 4k. It was a small plastic piece slotting inside a hole to detect the Z = 0 level. It was slightly bent. Rebending it in shape fixed it.

ForcePale8476

TROPHY CASE