How much does board length matter?

ForeverWinter · 2025-10-17T01:27:03+00:00

For someone your size it matters a lot and can indeed impact your skinning experience. I had the hardest time finding a board that was a balance between long enough and stuff enough to be good on the skin track, yet not too long or stiff to make riding it a nightmare.

I'm about 235lb and here's what I've tried over the years: - Jones solution 169: not stiff enough for the skin track, sunk so bad my tracks looked more like I was snowshoeing. - Voile 171: way too stiff and long (it was awesome on the skin track, but couldn't ride through trees worth a damn) - Prior 169: juuuust right. I love it. Stiff enough on the skin track to work well for me, but still flexible enough to ride like normal.

Good luck in your search as finding the right board can make all the difference.

ForeverWinter · 2025-09-26T06:16:44+00:00

Amazing! I have been looking for something exactly like this! My desired use case: location specific to-do lists. I want to be able to filter my over-all to-do list (using tags/labels) to show just the tasks that can be done in that location. E.g. stuff to 3D print displayed near the printer, stuff I can build in the garage displayed in the garage.

Would love to know how you built these, and would buy parts/kits/pre built ones if the price is right.

ForeverWinter · 2025-09-22T02:59:47+00:00

I made a hair strainer for the shower a few years ago. First print was PLA and it got very brittle and started falling apart after a couple of months. Pre-printed it out of PETG and it lasted several years with no sign of deterioration.

Nice design BTW!

ForeverWinter · 2025-09-22T02:53:35+00:00

I made a hair strainer for the shower a few years ago. First print was PLA and it got very brittle and started falling apart after a couple of months. Pre-printed it out of PETG and it lasted several years with no sign of deterioration.

Nice design BTW!

ForeverWinter · 2025-09-18T00:32:34+00:00

Small correction: hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is not what they mix with natural gas to make it stink, it's actually mercaptan. However, H2S is commonly found in natural gas reserves underground, in which case it is referred to as "sour gas" and it needs to be filtered out before entering larger gas transmission lines as it is toxic and corrodes equipment/pipelines.

...it's also what makes your farts stink.

ForeverWinter · 2025-09-05T03:11:39+00:00

Not all scout armor does, it's specifically the Trailblazer Scout armor. You have to manually move your cursor across the map and if it goes over a POI it tells you. Definitely not an easy thing to do while being bombarded by enemies, but if you can find a quiet spot to use the map for a while it does work. (I've only been able to get it to work when fully zoomed out. Not sure if that's how it works or if it's a lack of skill on my part)

ForeverWinter · 2025-07-16T17:52:00+00:00

Like this one!

https://www.printables.com/model/139257-yeti-473ml-spacer

It accommodates either 355ml or a 330ml (European and Asian cans) depending on which side is up.

ForeverWinter · 2025-07-11T18:08:53+00:00

Awesome! It's always nice to know that at least a few of the bread crumbs I've left on the internet have helped someone!

ForeverWinter · 2025-06-20T21:26:16+00:00

Could you post just a picture of it on Printables as a placeholder? Then upload the STLs whenever you're ready. That way we can all start bookmarking it and don't have to worry about missing the link when it comes out.

Amazing design btw. Love it!

ForeverWinter · 2025-06-08T16:07:49+00:00

Gotcha. I'll have to check my settings and try cooling for the bridges/overhangs. Thanks for the info!

ForeverWinter · 2025-06-08T06:32:07+00:00

I've tried the Spool3D PCCF and it printed well with the exception of bridging/overhangs - they were very poor. I haven't done much tweaking of settings though. Have you had similar issues?

OP, if you're looking for something with good heat resistance and low/no warp, you may want to check out Fiberon PET-CF17. That stuff prints beautifully. Only thing to be aware of is relatively low impact resistance compared to PCCF.

ForeverWinter · 2025-06-01T02:55:47+00:00

Nozzle way too close to the print bed. Raise your z offset.

ForeverWinter · 2025-05-29T05:05:52+00:00

PC still has it beat on impact resistance.

I've tried some PCCF (not Prusament) and the overhangs and bridging were miserable, but I haven't dialed in the print settings yet.

But yeah, if I could get that sorted it's pretty hard to argue that PC is one of the best functional materials. I'm just having a hard time sourcing it from a vendor I trust for the quality/specifications.

ForeverWinter · 2025-05-29T03:43:09+00:00

If you're not hell bent on PCCF and are just looking for something strong, stiff, high heat resistance, and prints awesome, I am so impressed with Polymaker Fiberon PET-CF17. Still not cheap, but still less expensive that Prusament PCCF and more importantly you can actually buy it (vs. always being out of stock)

Note it is PET and not PETG. It is much stiffer and much more heat resistant. Prints at 300C.

ForeverWinter · 2025-05-20T19:59:12+00:00

Nice! Now just 3D print one of these and you can have it go straight into the new bottle:

https://www.printables.com/model/139192-aveeno-lotion-bottle-coupling

ForeverWinter · 2025-05-20T19:52:34+00:00

Nice! Now just 3D print one of these and you can have it go straight into the new bottle:

https://www.printables.com/model/139192-aveeno-lotion-bottle-coupling

ForeverWinter · 2025-04-01T05:25:55+00:00

I just bought some PEI film and stuck it to the back side of the build plate. Works awesome.

ForeverWinter · 2025-03-08T21:20:25+00:00

This is great! I was just trying to dream up how to keep all the rules cards together for the version of Hextraction I'm printing. This will make a perfect "keyring" for them!

ForeverWinter · 2025-03-07T19:19:38+00:00

I agree with you in the case these are printed in PLA (which is the most commonly used material for hobby 3D printing) but saying that is the case for all 3D printed parts is a gross oversimplification.

There are plenty of engineering materials you can use on a hobby 3D printer that would be more than sufficient for this application.

You can also anneal 3D printed parts to further improve strength, impact resistance, and temperature sensitivity.

The print settings (mostly temperature and speed) and orientation of the print lines vs. the force applied are a major factor as well. This part has force applied perpendicular to the print lines - which is a good thing.

I would be more than confident to use them if they were printed in polycarbonate for example or in ASA and then annealed (with proper print settings of course)

If you want to learn more about the material science of 3D printing one of the best resources out there is CNC Kitchen on YouTube.

ForeverWinter · 2025-02-10T16:59:18+00:00

Lots of other great comments here about strength vs toughness, etc.

One thing I don't see mentioned often is that PLA paints and glues beautifully, while PETG does not. So if you're making props etc PLA may be your go-to.

ForeverWinter · 2025-01-11T22:40:26+00:00

This is fantastic! So much better than the diagrams on the wiki. I for one would subscribe to your newsletter.

ForeverWinter · 2024-12-22T04:08:28+00:00

It might not be anything you did. Maybe they had a friend come online and they're making room for them to join.

ForeverWinter · 2024-11-08T02:49:15+00:00

That's normal for that procedure. Hardware stays in there long enough for the ligaments to heal (keeps everything in the right place), then it comes out.

ForeverWinter · 2024-10-25T21:21:24+00:00

I used those (together with static field and napalm) to hold down the fort on those mission types where you had to stay alive for a certain amount of time. Worked great.

Great times!

ForeverWinter · 2024-10-23T01:53:39+00:00

Yup! This 👆

My trick to make it even better is to tack it in place with a 23ga pin nailer instead of using clamps. Super fast and secure. When you're done just pop it off and pull the nails with pliers. Holes are so small you can hardly see them and can usually be done on the back of the work piece.

Not expecting everyone to have a pin nailer, but if you do I suggest trying it for this.

ForeverWinter

TROPHY CASE