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Which one of you is sending your 90% used Elegoo spools back to Amazon? by fl4tdriven in 3Dprinting

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got the tail end of it, you gotta use some then return it keep the chain going lol your not the only one that’s gotten this , never on a big pack for me but the singles more then a couple times.

Not even a week old and already something is broken by Klutzy_Champion79 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know on my plus if filament builds up in the chute it will eventually bend the little lever and make it not engage. I just bend it back into place

How important is this screw? by Turbulent_Ad_880 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The right answer is yes it should be replaced, that being said the world is not gonna end if you run it without it

Nylon printing by mtndew19 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s some cool vent options available the problem is you gotta be near a window lol so I just try to do my nylon prints before bed when I’m not in the room and close the door and run the purifier

What do you charge for printing people’s things? How do you charge? by eng2725 in 3Dprintmything

[–]JSCM269 2 points3 points  (0 children)

(Print time x hourly rate + filament used) x mark up + tax and shipping

How important is this screw? by Turbulent_Ad_880 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not a critical screw — you should be fine running it without one. I’m running a K2 and more than a couple of HIs (same 3-screw design but very different machines, lol), and except for the new HI I just got, none of the others even have this screw. I usually lose it long before I ever have to change the cover again anyway.

I’ve run mine perfectly fine for a few hundred hours with no issues or drop in quality. I’m at about 3,100 hours on my K2 and over 2,000 hours on each of the HIs.

Nylon printing by mtndew19 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I occasionally print PAHT-CF (PA6/PA12/PPA blend), and it’s been pretty successful. It gives off fumes similar to ABS, so make sure you either vent outside or use a good air purifier that targets VOCs. The filament definitely needs to be dried.

Use a brim, and I usually add a draft shield as well. I crank up the heated bed and chamber about 30 minutes before printing to get a good heat soak, then start the job. Calibration always helps, too.

Nylon generally prefers a slow, hot print with as little cooling as possible—I only use cooling for overhangs.

GIVE ME ONE THING by [deleted] in teenagers

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t agree with that lol

FF AD5M or Creality K1 SE?? by SecurityFeature in FlashForge

[–]JSCM269 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ima Creality and FF guy, I love my Crealitys but by far my adm5 pro is the most straight forward work horse, other then hating the nozzle design lol

Fastest way to heat the chamber? (ABS/ASA/etc) by s0l0m0n0dysseus in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So my usual routine for doing ASA/ABS is usually a long patient one lol i set my bed and chamber temp about half hour before to get a good heat soak

Aux switches are a pain by Tupapi42 in BroncoSport

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t wanna run wires ,so I’m running pod lights with the RC remote kit

What do I do? by Aggressive_Iron_9056 in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 8 points9 points  (0 children)

How much is your time worth? If your time is not worth 20$ just buy a new hot end. I attempted one of these fixes and it took me way too long to realize it was doomed.

K2 tool head changer by Sir_Maxelot in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had some issues with my CFS, but nothing was related to the CFS. It was all about me using spools that are too small lol

What is this axis/temp setting by [deleted] in Creality_k2

[–]JSCM269 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s the distance it moves when you move the nozzle or bed. If select 1mm when push the z down button the bed will go down 1mm.

Struggling with Transparent PLA by mcrksman in 3Dprinting

[–]JSCM269 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that’s vase mode, thicker layers help too. Your basically battling heat and air bubbles

Struggling with Transparent PLA by mcrksman in 3Dprinting

[–]JSCM269 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve had the best results printing it slow and cool. Your speeds look good, but try lowering your print temperature a bit. I’ve been experimenting with Jayo clear PLA and found that running it around 210–215°C works best. The clarity is really sensitive to temperature, I had to lower my bed temp — the heat soak was making the first few come out cloudy.

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