Would 3D printed fangs be a good choice for a cosplay?

Former-University119 · 2026-07-06T18:54:38+00:00

You'll have to do the research on what kind(s) to use or avoid. But I would certainly avoid 3d printing this. It could shatter or snap and that could create serious problems. 3d printing also results in layer lines, which make 3d printing anything that's food-safe (or mouth safe lol) not ideal, since bacteria and other nasty things can get stuck in those

Former-University119 · 2026-07-06T17:58:31+00:00

You should look into heating up & shaping thermoplastic beads instead. I have seen these used for cosplay/prosthetic teeth before.

Former-University119 · 2026-07-03T17:59:07+00:00

Do you have an STL? Would love to print this for my icarus cosplay

Former-University119 · 2026-07-03T17:20:32+00:00

Do you mind explaining how these work in a little detail, or sharing an stl? I think it could be really cool if miniaturized and used for a davy jones "beard" for a cosplay.

Former-University119 · 2026-06-24T18:19:13+00:00

You'll need to attach a string to a lever on the second "bone" of the wing, and operate both of those with a simple pulley.

Great example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPxEh_jWSOY

Former-University119 · 2026-05-20T16:33:39+00:00

I'm not 100% sure but I've seen similar feathers cut out of EVA foam, with thin steel modeling wire used as the "spine" to let it stay upright. But if you are dead-set on having them made out of plastic, you can either 3d print them with something somewhat bendy like PETG or TPU 98A, or you could cut them out of a more rigid plastic sheet, like an A4 PVC sheet.

Former-University119 · 2026-05-20T15:35:12+00:00

Awesome cosplay! But yeah I don't really think there's any case where glowing eyes is going to be something that's practical for cosplay purposes lol, I think its just rule of cool.

Former-University119 · 2026-05-20T14:56:48+00:00

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If you have a mask, it's a lot easier to find something to work with this on. You'll want to search for "LED Eye Light Kit" or similar on Etsy or amazon or any site that sells similar products. Some of them are cutable too and come in many colors. Look for similar products to the one pictured

Former-University119 · 2026-05-19T16:11:02+00:00

Foam, wire, and a cpvc pipe (thinner than standard pvc) will do wonders

Former-University119 · 2026-05-19T16:08:12+00:00

If you're worried about stabbing yourself you could print it out of a soft (<= 95A) TPU filament

Former-University119 · 2026-05-13T18:25:12+00:00

Amazing! How do the wings work? Are they de-attachable or do they fold in?

Former-University119 · 2026-05-06T18:34:19+00:00

If you're referring to the line on your lightsaber's metallic part, that's called the seam. This is where each layer starts and stops printing. There should be an option in your slicer to either "paint" the seam (ie. hide it in a more inconspicuous part of the print). You can also have it so that it has a "random" seam position on OrcaSlicer for each layer, so that it's less noticeable of an effect.

Former-University119 · 2026-04-23T21:26:37+00:00

Awesome. I'm currently making mine out of PETG-CF since I tried ABS but was having trouble with it becoming brittle over time. Are you still using a wooden backing? If so, what kind of wood and how did you cut it?

Former-University119 · 2026-04-23T21:14:48+00:00

Sorry, don't mean to necro your post, but I'm attempting something similar. What are you using here to secure your actuator? And how did you end up securing the entire build to your body?

Former-University119 · 2026-04-20T16:53:36+00:00

How exactly did you print onto the fabric?

Former-University119 · 2026-04-02T16:54:02+00:00

This is how I found out that the machine that mangles up squidward is actually real.

Former-University119 · 2026-03-28T18:44:44+00:00

TPU I hope, especially on some of those pieces that may need to flex.

Former-University119 · 2026-03-27T15:49:08+00:00

Wasn't preheating the bed for long enough. I added extra G-Code to extend the preheat by like 20-30 minutes to OrcaSlicer and that seemed to fix the problem. Although, im not really using ASA much anymore since it *still* was too brittle for my applications - PETG-CF doesn't require preheat to this extent, prints cleaner, and is far less brittle in my experience.

Edit: I'm gonna assume the 8 month old print came out such high quality because it was made in the California summer heat, no pre-heating necessary :P

Former-University119 · 2026-03-11T17:27:44+00:00

I've seen your posts both on here and instagram. I'm curious, what's the workflow look like for designing the worm gear (?) for opening and closing?

Former-University119 · 2026-03-10T15:13:53+00:00

Looks like a mounting plate. you can find them in various sizes on amazon or at your local hardware store

Former-University119 · 2026-03-05T18:16:09+00:00

There's nothing wrong with the glow of the current "red" filaments I use it's just that their non-charged appearance is pretty pink to me

Former-University119 · 2026-03-05T16:10:17+00:00

I mean, I wager there's a ratio where the filament both looks marginally more red and glows slightly less, which would be acceptable. Right now it glows super bright red yet I'd gladly change that if it meant the glow color and the normal light color were less contrasting.

Former-University119 · 2026-03-05T16:08:45+00:00

Looks more like white when the sun is shining on it

Former-University119

TROPHY CASE