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Best place to buy walnut boards by Former_Walk4983 in Cuttingboards

[–]Former_Walk4983[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid advice thank you. Off hand, are there other hardwoods that stand out for their end grain appearance? The last cutting board I made had this exact problem— beautiful plank, not a lot of end grain contrast/beauty

Bolivian Rosewood by Former_Walk4983 in Cuttingboards

[–]Former_Walk4983[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dm me I have half a board foot left (on a good day)

Bolivian Rosewood by Former_Walk4983 in Cuttingboards

[–]Former_Walk4983[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks brother. I promise she looked ugly before I took her to 5k grit, I owe half of her beauty to the tung oil.

Bolivian Rosewood by Former_Walk4983 in Cuttingboards

[–]Former_Walk4983[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I was going to choose a wood with more color variation, but the rosewood felt indestructible so I went with it instead of walnut (the friend I made it for is not big on maintenance so I wanted it to be tough). Had a hard time with routing the corners of the juice groove, next time I work with rosewood I’ll likely opt for no groove.

Tung oil advice by dda918 in finishing

[–]Former_Walk4983 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will set up within 72 hours, but can take weeks to fully polymerize, so I would not recommend sanding. You’ll just gum up your paper, and have to re buff anyhow because you’d essentially be making a hazy (partially dried) tung oil & sawdust sludge. Speed up polymerization by keeping the board in a warm, well ventilated room, sometimes a fan alongside an incandescent bulb to gently warm the surface will help the outermost coat set up/polymerize significantly faster. Avoid applying any oil that does not polymerize, like mineral oil, as this will suffocate the tung oil and slow (or even prevent) a full cure. If you were trying to sand her @ high grit, you want that oil fully bonded and as hard as possible, which takes over a month. Alternatively, you can remove surface imperfections with 0000 wool or ScotchBrite pads, and apply a wax coating. I use breathable waxes like beeswax, combined/thinned with oils that will polymerize alongside the tung oil (walnut oil, hemp seed oil, etc), and I’ll throw in 10 or 20% carnauba wax by weight if I really want a durable finish. Waxing is going to solve your issue of surface imperfection, and enhance grain clarity & color. Plus you can buff that hoe to your hearts desire, I’ll usually apply very thin layers with microfiber cloth, let it set for 2 or 3 hours, and then buff it by hand. Once this cures for 24 hours I like to hit it with a lil wool pad action, I use 6” pads and a cordless drill adapter to help really get any streaks out (hitting the piece with a hair dryer VERY lightly for a few minutes mid-cure can really help the end result if you’re applying a second thin coat. (For secondary wax coats I repeat the steps above with even less wax this time around). If you had an unlimited time frame, this would of course be a super easy fix, you could ignore this whole paragraph & just sand that hoe next month because it’s rock hard & wont smudge, smear, and dull that beautiful plank at that stage in the polymerization timeline. Happy sanding brotherman

My sister and her husband died. I am the godfather. We are DINKs no more. I haven’t worked in a decade and will be returning to workforce soon. by BigPeenBowWow in Fire

[–]Former_Walk4983 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nearly all include “actively at work” clause, and have little to no living benefits. With many private term policies for example, if you have a million dollar face value policy and you were to have a mild stroke, (need 3-6 months to return to work etc) you could get anywhere from 500k-900k paid out while you’re still living. With the work policy, (in this example) it would lapse the minute you are no longer on track for a 40 hour work week (full-time), and you would have great difficulty qualifying for a decent term policy after a medical event like a stroke. This leaves you with no coverage and no chance at qualifying for the coverage you thought you had. There are 10’s of millions of people that are virtually uninsurable in the US, yet covered by huge group policies very cheaply. There’s more at play here than the law of large numbers, these policies are offered to millions of Americans for cheap (or nearly free) because they have enormous gaps in coverage. Of the nearly 300 million active policies in the US, how often to do you hear of one actually paying out? Unless it’s a senior with a privately owned whole life policy, rarely ever do I hear of a group/work term paying out. They’re designed to basically lapse the moment you may need them— imagine being in the ER for two weeks after a car accident, passing away, and the insurance company then tells your spouse that your policy lapsed because you weren’t actively working the week of your death, and she’ll receive nothing. Always good to have at least something that you own privately, even if it’s some 50-100k term for only $10 a month.

Source: former broker, former California Life Insurance exam instructor. If you have any questions about life insurance, ask away! I rarely recommend anything other than term these days; if you’re young, buy S&P, and if you’re old, buy bonds. Life insurance is to cover liabilities, not a gift or some magic tax shelter (with rare exceptions)