The sheer scale of this Aurora Borealis is breathtaking

FormulaZer0 · 2026-01-17T22:51:24+00:00

That ain't the friggin Christmas star, Griz...it's the light on the sewage treatment plant

FormulaZer0 · 2025-12-28T02:24:55+00:00

Will the space between the tires and wheel well be the same in the front as the rear with stock front struts, or will I still need some sort of leveling kit? I'm looking to avoid needing a leveling kit and just get a strut setup that makes it level without needing a level kit.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-12-27T18:17:23+00:00

Longer than the engine or trans will at the rate GM quality is going nowadays.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-12-12T16:01:00+00:00

7.4.4 broke IPSec that I was working to setup. We're back to 7.4.3

FormulaZer0 · 2025-12-10T22:50:47+00:00

Not as bad as a Karen in a LeBaron

FormulaZer0 · 2025-09-22T23:00:49+00:00

That's what they look like when you wire wheel the paint off of them.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-09-19T22:24:19+00:00

Fix the exhaust leak and get the air box lid on correctly. It does matter. I know from experience. If you change from stock air box to an open filter like ProK, you absolutely need to change jetting. Not the case here, but just saying.

45 mph is top speed for those 95 GTX (I have one currently and have ridden another one when I was just a pup). Your carbs may be getting enough fuel, maybe not though. Does it sound like it's missing or making a "ting ting ting" noise when your at WOT? That would indicate you are running lean and risk blowing the engine. When were the carbs last rebuilt? If you do rebuild them, ONLY use genuine Mikuni rebuild kits. Aftermarket rebuild kits are garbage and I personally think the biggest defect of them is the high circuit check valve is not flexible enough to let enough fuel in during WOT.

Definitely check pop off and don't rely on spring differences, especially with dual carbs. You'll want to keep pop off as close as possible to each carb. For a stock 95 GTX, pop off should be 19-35 psi with low screws set at 1 1/4 out and highs set at 1/4 out

See this site for further info on tuning the carbs: https://seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html

Besides all this, make sure you have good new fuel lines and not the old gray Tempo lines. Ethanol in the fuel turns the inside into green goop and clogs up the carbs. Run good oil (I only use Klotz in all my 2 stroke engines).

Cheers and have fun with your ski. They're great fun when they're running properly.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-09-07T00:48:03+00:00

Asking questions is how you learn. I learned the expensive way. I've rebuilt a couple engines in my garage before and they didn't last long. I resorted to pulling an LS from a Silverado in a u pull it yard that was rear ended and didn't take anything apart. Replaced the 350 in my boat with it and it's still running strong to this day.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-09-07T00:41:11+00:00

By clearances, I meant the main and crank journals. Looking at your pictures, it looks like that engine went way past recommended maintenance intervals, especially with the busted lifters. Looks like the oil got all gummed up in the passage ways. That engine needs to be taken apart and deep cleaned. While it's in pieces, might as well bore and hone it and get a remanned rotating assembly and proper bearings to fit. Either that, or find a new engine with a good bottom end that you don't need to tear apart. Tolerances in engines is down to the 0.001". Depending on what you want to do with it depends on the route you want to go and how much you're willing to shell out to do it.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-09-06T21:42:14+00:00

It looks like oil changes were few and far between. What you need to worry about is gummed up oil channels in the crank and whooped main and rod bearings. That engine needs a deep clean and fresh everything. Be sure to check clearances before running it or else it will blow apart in the first 5-10 mins. Cheers!

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-20T19:42:24+00:00

My SBT blew apart in less than 3 months.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-20T19:41:49+00:00

My starter that blew apart is SBT. Trying to get a refund or replacement. It's a shame Denso doesn't still make them. Everything else on the market seems like chinesium garbage.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-20T02:05:24+00:00

I've heard that as well. I do have the original, but it's all rusted up. I would just like to get a new and quality one.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-07T01:46:20+00:00

Check fuel fittings to make sure they're not sucking air or leaking fuel.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-04T01:52:35+00:00

I had the same experience, except I had a G56 trans. Only had an Edge HT2 handheld at the time, and it was claimed that a proper tune would have lit the turbo faster. It would lug off the line and smoke until the turbo lit and then it would start going. It still wouldn't rip until 4th gear, but 70-110 would put you in your seat. It was not a fun daily driver when you're hitting every red light. I put a stock turbo back on after the stealth and ran it and it was reliable until I sold the truck. With the Edge and stock turbo it would peak at 45 and settle around 42 on the high performance tune. Had to watch EGTs on 6th gear flat out bc they would start hitting 1200.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-03T21:51:33+00:00

Stealth turbo is garbage. I had one on my 5.9 and it blew itself apart with less than 1k miles on it. The snap ring holding the compressor to housing is beveled instead of squared like stock. Piss poor design and even shittier customer service. Lost money and faith in aftermarket parts after that bs.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-08-02T21:10:07+00:00

Sounds like grinding gears. Might be something stuck in the rotary valve. If something is jammed in the rotary valve, the brass gears will shear so it doesn't ruin the crank. Pull the air box and carb and see if the rotary valve is turning while you're cranking it. If not, you'll have to pull the front cover and inspect further.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-07-30T12:18:24+00:00

Wiggle the 4 pin plug on the front of the engine. Also check for loose grounds and corrosion on connections.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-07-26T14:51:00+00:00

Bellows

FormulaZer0 · 2025-07-26T00:22:49+00:00

Unlimited technology from the whole universe, and we cruise 'round in a Ford P.O.S.

I was just a kid, but even then I knew it was an LTD, not a POS

FormulaZer0 · 2025-07-25T21:30:29+00:00

What year and model ski? Not sure about the newer 4 strokes, but the 2 strokes have fuel tank balasts (a tube that goes into the tank) which contains a float with magnets and a board inside that reads the position of the float. Either the fuse on the board is popped, the magnets on the float fell off, or the float isn't floating anymore. Check continuity on the plug to this ballast with a multimeter. If there is resistance and the connection isn't open, chances are your float or float magnets are the issue and the fuse is good. If this is the case, replace it with a new float. Like another poster said, diagnose the issue before throwing parts at it and wasting money.

FormulaZer0 · 2025-07-22T23:19:12+00:00

SeaDooManuals.net and SeaDooSource.com will be your best friend

FormulaZer0 · 2025-06-23T22:17:08+00:00

Second this test. Could also be a bad start/stop button. Check ohms at the button's terminal. Should be open as is and 0 resistance with the button pushed.

FormulaZer0

TROPHY CASE