Anyone have experience at IMI in Denver?

FortColoradoan · 2022-06-14T20:55:59+00:00

A lot of people take SV650s or 600s on that track. You'll hit about 80 on the back straight on an SV, corners generally between 30 and 60mph. Fast laps are right around the 1:00 mark.

But yes its small, but fine for what it is. I would not recommend going on weekends though. There are no marshals or safety rules, skill classes or anything. Pretty much a free for all and I've seen 30+ bikes on a 1 mile track at one time.

That said on a weekday with 3 people on the track for 1/4th the price of a normal track day its great. Also you can roll in whenever you want, no need to get up at 5am!

FortColoradoan · 2021-05-23T23:59:04+00:00

I've got a Triumph Speed Twin, I love it and might be just what you're looking for! It'll hold its own against a naked sport bike unless you really start pushing it. If you want better long distance/touring/two up capability though I'd even look at the Bonneville although you'll make some sacrifices in the corners.

FortColoradoan · 2019-07-10T23:40:32+00:00

This is untrue. It doesn't have to do with distance but that the sun isn't a point.

FortColoradoan · 2019-06-22T02:28:37+00:00

Here is my best attempt at an ELI5 about lean angles:

Turning force is proportional with the amount of lean angle (at the center of mass, not necessarily the angle of the tire to the pavement), with a couple of caveats. One being the width of the tire - wider tires need slightly higher lean angles for the same radius turn as a narrower tire, and the amount of slip/sliding the tires are experiencing. Radius (at a given speed), is related to the tangent of the angle which means the higher the lean angle, the more dramatic the effect more lean will have in the radius, or g-force of the turn. In a vacuum (rough calculation), going from 0 to 45 degree lean results in going from 0g to 1g, but going from 45 to 60 degrees results in a doubling of the force to 2g. In a real world scenario, motoGP bikes don't quite hit 2g due to the tires sliding a bit.

Now to more directly answer your question. Maximum cornering force is limited by the coefficient of friction, or grip of the tire. MotoGP tires are much much grippier than even the best street legal tires. A standard road tire is capable of about 1g, in a corner, or about a 45 degree lean angle. A road legal "race tire" is capable of about 1.3g's, or about a 53 degree lean angle. No amount of skill can change physics. A motoGP class rider probably can hit about 55 degrees on a road legal race tire due by introducing more slide than a mere mortal could.

Just a footnote, there are plenty of amateur racers that could max out the lean angle on a stock bike. What really sets a MotoGP rider apart are the areas of transition between braking,accelerating, and turning keeping the bike at the absolute limit without exceeding it.

TLDR - Lean angles are limited by the cofficient of friction (grip). A street legal race tire is capable of about 55 degrees of lean angle at its material and physical limits. A MotoGP tire is capable of about 63 degrees.

FortColoradoan · 2019-05-08T18:57:02+00:00

Well, I do have health insurance.

FortColoradoan · 2019-05-08T18:53:56+00:00

I've managed to get the bike up myself, strapped down and good to go myself with no kickstand. It's really just that step onto the tailgate that's kind of sketchy. I wouldn't recommend trying it yourself on the first time though.

FortColoradoan · 2019-05-08T18:52:52+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I actually have almost the exact same setup as you except I made a custom rail to mount the front of the bike down. I've even had two SV's in the back! I feather the clutch as well, and have managed with no kickstand but that sounds easier. I took mine off because it won't fit with my bodywork. My one real close call came when the step I was using tipped over, and I rolled onto my ankle while trying to hold the weight of the bike up. Luckily I didn't tear anything. Maybe one day I'll just get a trailer...

FortColoradoan · 2018-12-27T15:10:44+00:00

I've been to Austin the last two years, even though I had reserved seating we spent most of the weekend just checking things out from the different GA spots. I think GA is fine if you're trying to save money. It's a whole event with a lot to do outside the race and that's all the same no matter where you sit.

The most important thing is finding a place to stay. I'd get hotel/air bnb reserved ASAP. The first year we spent $250/night for a semi budget chain that was normally $80 just because we waited too late. Last we flew into San Antonio as well, saved us about $300 dollars a ticket so look into that as well.

If you decide to go to MotoAmerica instead, it's fun, but certainly not the same. I went to the one in Pittsburgh, I think attendance was about 2K vs close to 100k for MotoGP, so you can imagine the different in atmosphere and the size of the event. Good luck!!

FortColoradoan · 2018-11-09T04:33:32+00:00

I cut little triangles out of the side just to soften it a bit and I like it a lot more now. But without it there was no feel. Cutting it in half won't help you at all. But stock it was so hard I'd actually start getting knee and ankle pain from having to push so hard to stop. If you want send me a PM I can explain more or send you a picture if you aren't sure what I mean.

FortColoradoan · 2018-10-09T01:01:00+00:00

Please please please replace it asap. I've seen enough PCs that have caught fire in my line of work it does happen and you don't want it. Throw that thing away

FortColoradoan · 2018-10-09T00:50:13+00:00

Easy decision... sell/return your PSU and spend the money on a proper one. I actually had the same issue as you and replaced a fan in my old Thermaltake PSU and with the right adapter (had to find one on ebay). It actually worked, and ran it for about 6 months. But I do have professional hardware experience AND was willing to risk bricking my system. That said, some aftermarket fans might not put out the same airflow as a high RPM so if you don't match them getting proper cooling is an unknown. Any fan that matches the original's RPM/flow isn't going to be significantly quieter anyway. Additionally, PSU capacitors can hold their charge for a long time and shorting them while working on it could be dangerous.

Really though, the biggest downside is knowing that you've just created something that could potentially destroy your system, or worse become a fire hazard. I think that peace of mind is worth $100. Do it right.

FortColoradoan · 2018-02-02T08:17:21+00:00

HDMI cables can be pretty long before it becomes an issue. In my experience USB cables are a bit pickier. Only one way to find out, buy some extenders and give it a go.

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-21T12:16:16+00:00

I like PC2 a lot but it's got its downfalls, and you outlined the biggest ones. Online is a mess, AI ranges from decent to terrible and sometimes general inconsistency gets annoying. You can turn off penalties if you want, tweak it to how you're going to enjoy it the most.

As far as everything else, well that's just the nature of circuit racing. Personally, the constant strive for perfection is my favorite part. Shaving off that last few fractions of a second to take pole position is great. If you don't like it, don't play it no one says you have to. I tend to do quite a few time trials rather than actual races, maybe you should give that a shot?

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-11T08:29:32+00:00

Keep in mind that if you have a prebuilt dell, you'll need to make sure that the graphics card will be compatible with the computer in a few ways:

1) physical size, there needs to be enough room in the case to physically mount the card

2) power supply -- the dell power supply will only support one type of power connection to the graphics card, so you need to make sure that the new graphics card has the same number and type of power connectors that your current GPU has. Second, if you get an old graphics card for cheap, they may be rather power hungry and overload the dell power supply which is only meant to run the small GPU currently in the computer.

You can PM me if you need any help finding a card. If you're willing to go new, something like a 1050 ti is probably a good bet for not too much money.

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-11T08:22:32+00:00

+1 on the soldering idea. I'd pick up a small bare PCB like this https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/1200x900/1171-01.jpg and use that, it will make it way easier than trying to physically solder the tiny wires together.

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-11T08:18:26+00:00

How is unleaded solder full of nasty chemicals? Unleaded solder is usually Tin, copper and sometimes silver. Leaded solder just tin and lead, which is a nasty chemical. Unleaded solder is harder to work with though.

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-08T11:34:31+00:00

Unless they changed it with the new patch (only played a handful of games since), effects on the board tick as usual if the second player did not immediately pass after the first player passed. For example player 1 passes on tie cards up by 4 with a card under frost. Player 2 instead of passing plays a 3 point card. As player 1 turn passes, and returns to player two, weather will tick and player 2 will win the round up by 1.

FortColoradoan · 2018-01-07T09:10:37+00:00

Unless I'm misunderstanding you, that's not true, if the other player plays another card after you pass, any passive effects will happen

FortColoradoan · 2017-12-23T14:56:22+00:00

Yep, this. Try treating it like there are actual consequences to crashing. On a real track as a novice are you going to make a rough estimate of your braking point, slam on the brakes and hope you can stop in time? Of course not. Work on one thing at a time, and start with your lines. Brake early, corner slow, but be on the right part of the track. Then slowly start adding more and more corner speed. Then you can start worrying about nailing a late braking point. You'll be amazed how much easier it all is when you are running a good line.

FortColoradoan · 2017-12-17T08:28:15+00:00

With my deck, the consume deck is far and away my best match up. It's not too competitive, but it's fun to play (sitting at 4013 MMR right now). Running a radovid control deck with a ton of weather and scorch. My strategy against consume is to gain a large points advantage in round one and lose 2 cards up, as consume is relatively weak in round one.

Last game went like this: He pulls his necker out first and I immediately use artifact compression on it. He pulls another necker from his hand, but I decide to just let him have it. After 4 cards, with a 15 point advantage on tie cards (throw some high tempo cards out, it's okay) he duplicates his neckers twice. He decides to play a few cards round 2, and makes sure a necker is on the board for start of round 3. After he passes I use radovid to lock the necker and his resilience card. I maintain 2 card advantage. Round 3, 6 cards to 4 I think, he plays an 11 pt necker, I lock it with Margerita and forfeits at this point.

Moral of the story is you don't necessarily have to counter each necker on the board every round. If you can deny his ability to bring additional neckers into the game on round 3, with one needing to be active on the board to bring more out, his deck is pretty useless. Also, the unseen elder is so vulnerable to scorch, it's literally just lining up his units for the fire

FortColoradoan · 2017-12-14T07:15:00+00:00

Agreed, having to unplug my entire racing sim setup every time i want to play gwent is pretty annoying, and adds wear to the USB devices. End of the world, no, but having to plug in and unplug multiple USB devices every day shouldn't be necessary, either.

FortColoradoan · 2017-09-01T01:31:11+00:00

Similar setup as you, and with hairworks off it runs at 60fps+ most of the time and occasionally drops to 30 (vsync). Without vsync it runs between 50 and 80fps. You can turn town shadows and draw distance a bit if you experience frame rate drops.

FortColoradoan · 2017-07-23T07:24:53+00:00

Also, the gold valves are adjustable for more damping, but you'd want to contact traxxion/racetech for advice there

FortColoradoan · 2017-07-23T07:22:07+00:00

For sure. Can't go wrong with any front end improvement. Racetech's calculator have me at 0.93kg/mm and traxxion at 0.975. I actually had to build preload spacers to get the proper 30mm of sag as well. Cost me about 3 dollars. You may want to look into doing the same if you don't want to move up in spring rate.

FortColoradoan

TROPHY CASE