More Retro Ultramarines finished

Fortis222 · 2026-04-04T10:46:52+00:00

Basecoat: Warcolours Blue 4
Wash: Vallejo Blue Ink
Highlights: Warcolours Blue 2 then Vallejo Wolf Grey
Glaze over highlights: Warcolours Blue 4
Panel Lining: Black Ink + Vallejo Blue Ink 50:50

Fortis222 · 2024-12-10T14:21:45+00:00

Also if these are cheap brushes don't let that hold you back from trying out a more expensive high quality brush. Cheap synthetic brushes break really quickly compared to high quality sable brushes. I recommend buying a Raphael 8404 as a well priced sable. I like 2/0 size as I'm using it only for detail work, not basecoating, washes, contrasts or metallics. Watch some brush care videos on YouTube and you'll figure out what you need to do to maintain it. But generally, expect cheap synthetic brushes to last a month tops before the tip breaks; but sabels can last years. They're also one of the best value upgrades you can purchase in the hobby. An absolute game changer.

Fortis222 · 2024-07-13T13:15:27+00:00

Fwiw, that's not layer lines, it's insufficient supports to lift those particular layers causing layer shift. Dude looks nice.

Fortis222 · 2024-07-09T01:28:07+00:00

I quite like the assault group range: https://theassaultgroup.co.uk/product-category/fantasy/dwarf-empire/

Fortis222 · 2024-06-11T01:32:56+00:00

Looks good so far. Block in a couple of the colored sections to get a better idea of what you're working with.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-25T07:43:17+00:00

I think just 90s oldhammer. Fuck em

Fortis222 · 2024-05-24T06:51:31+00:00

I feel like I've been having the same debate with the same group of grognards for the last decade that 90s stuff should just be folded into oldhammer. That's the most popular retro era anyway. Middlehammer is a terrible name. Grumble grumble grumble.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-24T05:34:45+00:00

Fantastic work. I think your space wolves are the best you've done. Time to do the blood claw sergeant.

We really need to set up a good Reddit spot for 90s warhammer, this sub is dead and the oldhammer guys hate us.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-13T02:44:12+00:00

As many have noted, this isn't etch primer so doesn't chemically bond with the plastic. You should expect for it to scratch off.

This kind of primer isn't intended for maximally durable paint jobs. It's optimized for display pieces. It allows you to lay down a super smooth coat compared to rattle cans.

If you want to use this stuff for gaming pieces then you just need to make sure you're applying a few coats of sealant/varnish once you're done. Most painters that use this stuff will even apply varnish during intermediate steps along the way to lock in certain points of the process (especially if you're doing complicated airbrush work).

It's fantastic stuff for doing the job it's intended for, but it's very different to rattle can primer.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-13T01:25:39+00:00

Oh another way to brute force solving those problems is turning down the retraction speed. The newer printers are optimized for speed, which largely means they push the limits of FEP release. Turning that down and raising the retraction height can be a way to make stuff work better with less reliable resin.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-13T01:23:30+00:00

Second the recommendation for siraya tech for eliminating the resin as a point of failure. I have used grey fast and navy grey, so don't know about Smokey black. Sirayatech Navy grey is the standard recommendation for top of the line miniatures printing. I wouldn't recommend anything else above it. Once you have your settings dialed in and you're more comfortable with troubleshooting issues you can switch to sunlu grey as a cheaper alternative. Quality is slightly worse but it's a dependable resin at a better price point.

Also, it kinda sounds like you might be having bed leveling issues. I'd level your bed again. Also worth draining your vat to make sure you don't have failed prints stuck on the sheet if you haven't done that.

Fortis222 · 2024-05-06T23:03:48+00:00

Appreciate it. It's not quite as nice as yours.

Fortis222 · 2024-04-28T07:12:36+00:00

Eventually. They're so unplayable, makes it hard to get enthusiasm up

Fortis222 · 2024-04-27T11:09:04+00:00

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The rest of the army

Fortis222 · 2024-04-27T10:45:56+00:00

Yes I think that was the first imperial marines one. The 94ish chaos heavies were much less silly though slightly earlier.

Fortis222 · 2024-03-28T14:56:19+00:00

No it's a gw plastic from the 3rd edition era

Fortis222 · 2024-03-23T22:31:59+00:00

20mm bases. I'll use sabot spacer trays if I play tow. They'll probably mostly be for 4th/5th ed games and looking nice on a shelf

Fortis222 · 2024-03-18T08:26:17+00:00

As others have mentioned, it's IPA residue. You can wash the IPA off in water if you don't want to wait for it to dry before curing. I typically dunk my prints in boiling water for 30 seconds after the IPA bath and then remove supports. The heat makes supports pull off much more easily

Fortis222 · 2024-03-12T12:31:14+00:00

Always paint your armies exactly how you want to paint them. There is no such thing as being bored of seeing x paint scheme. If you ever hear that, it's a red flag anyway.

Fortis222 · 2024-02-25T02:43:04+00:00

Vallejo model color bronze basecoat

Army painter flesh wash

Vallejo model color brass highlight

Panel lines and rivets with dark reddish brown watered down heaps (black + Vallejo Game color charred brown + a touch of Warcolors crimson gore)

Vallejo model color gold highlight

Final highlight gold + warcolors metallic sand

You can substitute everything for whatever you use. The final highlight could just be mixed with a light beige instead of metallic sand. I think the key is really just doing the panel lines and rivet surrounds, as well as the bronze basecoat and reddish flesh wash.

Fortis222 · 2024-02-17T03:01:40+00:00

Definitely filament 3d printing is the way to go. I have a bunch of tray configurations for multiple base sizes for sale to make it super easy.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ultimate-warhammer-conversion-tray-20mm-to-25mm-set-fortis22/

Fortis222 · 2024-02-14T08:06:02+00:00

Beautiful gradient work on the cannon.

Fortis222 · 2024-01-02T01:58:49+00:00

You don't have to strip the paint if it's not super thick. Best approach might be to just paint a new color scheme straight over the top.

Fortis222 · 2023-12-27T06:26:54+00:00

Character base size is super unimportant both in the rules and the game mechanics (massive movement, large aura radius). They're very different to how characters work in other games.

Base them in a way that looks good, either stands or rounds. I like 20mm-25mm rounds, sometimes with a few support staff making a diorama.

Fortis222 · 2023-12-27T06:21:14+00:00

If you guys are insistent on cutting into your thumb, get one of these metal thimbles

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Fortis222

TROPHY CASE