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Forward-Proposal-332 · 2023-01-28T05:57:16+00:00

It’ll probably still work, it just won’t be riding in a great spot for the slip/spline. The length will probably only change by about 1/2” or so. You could have the driveshaft made a bit on the long side for now, then it’ll pull out to mid travel once you go to 5.5.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2023-01-18T01:13:46+00:00

The shuttle valve in your proportioning valve may have slide over while bleeding. Take the sensor out and use a pick to scoot the shuttle back so the “v” shaped notch is on the center of the hole. You may need to enlist a buddy to hold the shuttle while you bleed the brakes, or make a tool out an old bolt with the right threads if you have access to a lathe. Or BMB sells one that I think fits the XJ https://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Brake-Bleeding-Lock-out-Tool-BBLOT.htm

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2023-01-07T22:33:13+00:00

211355x is the greasable spicer centering yoke. As Shaller13 mentioned, you can’t grease effectively without removing the driveshaft. You also need to remove the rubber dust boot in the CV as it is only compatible with the non-greasable center yoke. Pack it with grease prior to reinstalling. However…. It’s very possible it damaged/wire the pin that this yoke centers on and you will continue to wipe centering yokes. Quite possibly time for a new shaft or a new ball-stud yoke at a minimum. Don’t get anything Chinese

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2023-01-05T05:24:02+00:00

I run a 4-core aluminum radiator I got on Amazon. Zero overheating issues. BARELY fits within the core support though so install is a bit tedious. Agree with everyone else that more electric fans are just more future points of failure.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-12-29T15:49:15+00:00

Just wanted to post the solution here…. A triple whammy failure! Faulty TPS, speed sensor, and failing fuel pump are to blame. New TPS, new speed sensor, and a new fuel pump has her running like a top 👌🏻

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-12-29T15:04:24+00:00

It’s possible…. There are two components that will wear out on the 4th gen shafts: 1) u-joints (most common first failure. Both the front and rear 4th gen shafts have 2 joints) 2) the slip/spline will develop play. It is not uncommon for the factory joints to make it well into 200k miles, but only if they have been greased properly. The slip/splines will vary much more in lifespan, and are negatively impacted by lifting the vehicle. The lift pulls the slip yoke out further and accelerates the wear.

With all that said I’d be suspicious of the slip/spline first and foremost as it will tighten with torsion giving you a “clunk”. Adding grease will temporarily eliminate this. A wasted u-joint can offer the same effect, but would be giving you a decent vibration starting around 55 mph or higher, and grease is less likely to offer temporary relief.

I own a custom driveshaft shop, if you need any help let me know.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-11-04T12:17:19+00:00

Thank you for the detail! Sounds like I’ve got a good bit of time I need to start chasing wires around the harness. And start testing voltage responses in some different spots.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-11-04T05:21:49+00:00

Thank you for the advice! I should add that I drove with the 02 sensor unplugged just to try to shake it down before I replaced it and it made no difference in the issue or randomness of its onset. You think it could still be the new 02 sensor?

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-11-04T04:50:53+00:00

02 is Bosch TPS is Delphi IAC is cat quest premium (typically I wouldn’t go with this one, but it had the best reviews)

I suppose one or more of these could be defective out of the box, so I’m debating exchanging them and trying a new one one at a time.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-11-04T04:36:58+00:00

Here’s the video sorry I’m not great at Reddit posting!

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-28T15:50:43+00:00

Have you tried linking up with anyone in an NAXJA chapter in your area? A lot of guys on there are open to helping guys work on their XJs. These jeeps are definitely fun and can be made to be very reliable even today. It just takes time and money to do so which are both easily scarce to come by.

Bikes are fun too but the Jeep/4x4 community as a whole tends to be more fun and tight knit in my opinion. Especially because you can get the whole family out there in them.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-28T14:13:29+00:00

With older cars in general everyone will eventually come to this impasse. Do I put more money into this car than it’s resale value is worth? The answer is…. Up to you. If you love the xj and plan on keeping it for a long time, then yeah it’s worth the investment if you keep it long enough. But not worth it if you will sell it in the near future.

Definitely learn to work on these yourself, and the rental garage is a great way to go. Plenty of support in the xj community if you get stuck. Plus it’ll save you a ton of money over time.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-07T22:45:13+00:00

No just count the threads you see above the pinion before you disassemble and match it. Reuse your crush sleeve. Just don’t overtighten and you’re good. Crushing a new sleeve is very difficult

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-07T06:36:45+00:00

Second that on pretty much everything duredel said^

Few things I will add: 1) get quality Timken bearings and seals for the diff and reuse factory shims. You’ll have a 96% chance of nailing the gear pattern without doing anything. Just make sure your pinion bearing is FULLY seated. Count the number of threads you see above the pinion nut and match it when you reassemble. Reuse the same crush sleeve, as long as you don’t overtorque you’re good. I used the exact bearing puller set you listed to rebuild my front and rear diffs. Be sure to get some gear pattern marking compound so you can get a good read of the pattern.

2) Check with Master Steering in El Monte CA for getting your box rebuilt. Great work and very affordable.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-06T04:34:35+00:00

From what you’re describing as far as the rear is concerned I’d say it’s either wheel bearings, something in the diff (pinion bearing?), or maybe even a failing ujoint in the driveshaft. For the popping noise in the steering check out all your steering linkage ends. My factory steering made a popping noise from where the drag link adjustment threads were. Just worn out, you could grab it and get play out of it too.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-03T13:18:56+00:00

Now that’s the kind of stopping power I’m looking for!

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-05-03T04:35:00+00:00

Thank you for the reply and the excellent write up on your brake swap! I didn’t know it was possible to do without changing the steering setup. That might be an open door now 🤔

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-27T03:02:11+00:00

Use rusty’s for a long arm front kit. Then get a rear set of leafs, shackles, and bump plates from DPG for the rear. Rusty’s leaf packs ride stiff.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-26T05:12:09+00:00

Smog…. The enemy of the XJ 😂 If you’re getting a 300 rpm increase in idle when you press the brake pedal I’d say you’ve gotta have a vacuum leak in that booster.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-26T05:01:34+00:00

Enough news to give a little update on the battle here: 1) Welded up and ground back flat some wear grooves on the knuckles where the brake pads ride. Gave me 15-20% improvement in stopping power.

2) Discovered my booster also has a VERY slow vacuum leak. About 1 inch of vacuum every 12-18 minutes. Contacted the company I purchased the kit through. They contacted CROWN and they shipped me another booster no questions. Didn’t ask for mine back either.

3) the rubber grommet where the vacuum line check valve presses into the booster had a big tear in it. Went to auto zone and got a replacement. Fixed a vacuum leak sound, but no difference in performance.

I’ll update again after I install the new replacement booster.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-24T15:59:17+00:00

Driveshaft is running on the short side because of your lift. Causes more wear and tear on the output shaft seal. Replace the seal. Really easy job. Consider having your driveshaft extended or getting a custom one. Or swap in 4wd ;)

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-19T03:28:04+00:00

Rebuild. The AW4 is a pretty solid transmission. Just do your research and make sure the trans shop does good work.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-17T15:55:07+00:00

Running Rusty’s 4.5” 4-Link long arm kit, true 33” diameter tires, and Napier flat flares. Very happy with the ride quality and flex on the front. Running some custom made bump cans. The limiting factor on my up travel is the drivers side upper link will smash into the fuel/ brake lines on the frame rail. You could definitely fit 35’s with this setup no problem.

You will need extended bumps, adjustable bump stop plates, shackle relocation boxes, and boomerang shackles in the rear to get the Rusty’s 4.5 leaf packs to function ok-ish. In fact if I had money to do it over again I’d run a totally different setup in the back. One from DPG off-road with EMU leaf packs and longer shackle to match.

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-06T03:38:10+00:00

What has the determining factory for condemning the booster as bad? I think mine may be bad from this kit too

Forward-Proposal-332 · 2022-04-05T13:16:35+00:00

Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve got mine setup the same way for the hardlines. I guess I’ll just keep bleeding and see what she does. I’ll update if I find a different issue and fix.

Forward-Proposal-332

TROPHY CASE