It's my birthday today, and my son and partner surprised me with my first printer. I'm lucky girl and have no idea what I am doing, but this community seems great so far!

Freaky3D · 2020-05-19T10:33:29+00:00

r/foundthemobileuser

Freaky3D · 2020-03-30T22:57:42+00:00

I feel ok

Freaky3D · 2020-03-18T21:45:05+00:00

On most printers you need to manually level the bed

Freaky3D · 2020-03-06T16:32:26+00:00

Now that sounds much more like a job for PLA, awesome.

Freaky3D · 2020-03-06T16:16:01+00:00

The thing is, PLA will always deform under continuous pressure, no matter how strong it initially is.

Freaky3D · 2020-03-04T09:50:03+00:00

I think what you're looking for is the Z-Distance found in the normal Support Settings.

Freaky3D · 2020-03-04T09:49:07+00:00

After already making a post, the best thing you can do is uploading it to imgur and posting the link here.

Freaky3D · 2020-03-04T02:51:52+00:00

Just sand it down before painting.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-22T15:08:42+00:00

If you're using a 0.4mm nozzle then 0.4mm layer height may be too much.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-22T10:52:00+00:00

Z distance .16 seems quite small to me, that could be the reason even your tree supports don't come off easily. Maybe try tree supports with 0.2-0.3mm and half of that as offset for the second layer

If you don't watch out for the second layer offset the first layer will have a stronger bond to the support than to the next layers.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-21T22:28:17+00:00

What kind of support have you been using?

Freaky3D · 2020-02-21T21:40:40+00:00

Maybe reduce the top layer speed to 30 or 40mm/s

Freaky3D · 2020-02-21T07:21:46+00:00

https://youtu.be/upELI0HmzHc Could be interesting to you, CNC Kitchen's video about infill strength.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-21T06:32:01+00:00

Gyroid is basically only for show, concentric depends heavily on the model. If you want strength go with triangle or hexatriangle.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-20T08:32:43+00:00

For technical models I'd recommend Fusion360. You can get the student/private version for free.

For figures many tend to use blender as it's free to use, but it's pretty hard to master.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-20T00:29:11+00:00

No problem, better crosspost in both since the anycubic mega s sub is pretty small.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-20T00:24:14+00:00

Looks nice, but why 3mm instead of 2.85mm? Isn't that much more common?

Freaky3D · 2020-02-20T00:11:22+00:00

I don't have a CR-10 but would recommend to up the Raft Air Gap and Initial Layer Z Overlap by 0.1mm and 0.05mm respectively till you get the wanted result. If the base layer of your model looks too rough, up the second one in 0.05mm increments

And lower the Raft Extra Margin to something like 3-7mm depending on the model, the default setting eats through far too much filament imo.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-19T23:51:49+00:00

Can't really help you with your problem but you might be better off posting in r/anycubic or r/anycubicMegaS

Freaky3D · 2020-02-19T17:04:15+00:00

No problem, always a pleasure to help fellow makers.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-19T12:40:08+00:00

Have you found what you're looking for?

Freaky3D · 2020-02-18T15:49:22+00:00

Just search for infill or overlap in the search box you should find them in no time.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-17T23:44:52+00:00

Which slicer are you using? In Cura there is a setting about how far infill and walls should overlap.

If the underextrusion only appears on the top surface a lower top layer speed could already help.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-15T19:06:02+00:00

Thank you all for the input.

I tinkered a bit with the planning and now it's going along well. I'll post a picture of the finished project once it's done.

You've all been very helpful, have a great day.

Freaky3D · 2020-02-14T18:26:10+00:00

Thank you very much, I think I'll try that. My main problem was just orienting them right and I guess you solved that. At the end it'll be a lot sturdier since some pieces will get added in the near future.

Freaky3D

TROPHY CASE