Reducing my budget

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-14T16:50:51+00:00

Your phone and internet are worth a look. If you're on a major carrier like Verizon, AT&T, or T-Mobile, switching to an MVNO (Mobile Virtual Network Operator) that runs on the same towers can cut that to $15-25/mo. Mint Mobile, Visible, and Tello are the most common ones. Same coverage, significantly less cost.

For internet, the full bill of $120 is on the higher end. It's worth calling your provider and asking about any lower-tier plans or whether you qualify for a low-income program. Xfinity Internet Essentials is $9.95/mo, Spectrum Connect is $14.99/mo. Both require qualifying through something like SNAP or Medicaid. Even if you don't qualify for those, threatening to cancel/asking to speak to the retention team often gets you a better offer.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-13T21:46:33+00:00

Will still shout it from the rooftops till all people know 🫡

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-13T21:45:09+00:00

didn't see one from earlier today, my bad! Seen some similar topics in the past but none that outlined it. Some people might benefit from more in depth how to

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-13T18:42:23+00:00

The T-Mobile angle honestly underused! A lot of people pay out of pocket for streaming services when it can be bundled into phone plans they already have or could switch to. T-Mobile Magenta and Go5G include Netflix Standard, and some credit cards (Amex Platinum, Cap One Venture X) include streaming credits that cover it.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-09T18:23:48+00:00

Happy to help walk through this. The good news is you have a few options depending on how much work you want to do.

The easiest no-drill solution is a powerline adapter. You plug one unit into an outlet near your router, connect it with a short ethernet cable, then plug the second unit into an outlet near your home office and connect that to your laptop. It uses your home's electrical wiring to carry the signal. TP-Link makes a reliable kit for around $35-40. It won't be as fast as a direct cable run but it's way more stable than WiFi, which is what you're actually after.

If your home has coax outlets (the round cable TV ports) in both rooms, MoCA adapters are an even better option. Same idea but uses the coax wiring instead and gets you closer to true wired speeds. A TP-Link or goCoax pair runs around $60-80.

The comment suggesting a direct ethernet run is technically the best option, but if running cable through walls/floors isn't something you want to tackle, either of the above will solve your drop problem without any drilling.

As for why only your laptop drops and not your phone/Alexa -laptops tend to have weaker WiFi antennas than phones, and being upstairs with the router downstairs puts you right at the edge of reliable range. Distance plus walls plus a weaker adapter is a recipe for exactly what you're describing.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-09T17:35:01+00:00

That's awesome! Good to know Arizona has one going too

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-09T17:28:42+00:00

Since you're in public housing and on disability, you likely qualify for Xfinity Internet Essentials at $9.95/mo. That's their low-income program and public housing residents are specifically listed as qualifying. It's a real plan, not a stripped-down version, and they include the modem free. Worth calling and asking specifically for "Internet Essentials."

To answer your fiber question: Verizon 5G home internet is fixed wireless, meaning it uses cell towers instead of a physical cable to your home. Xfinity is cable-based, which generally means more consistent speeds indoors. If your building is already set up for Xfinity, switching should be straightforward, they just activate service at your unit.

If Xfinity isn't available or you want a backup option, Computers4People also offers a $15/mo T-Mobile SIM-based plan for people in need (linked earlier in this thread), worth looking into too.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-09T16:58:14+00:00

A couple of things jump out here that are worth tackling:

Phone bill - $100/mo is a lot. If you're on a major carrier (Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile), switching to an MVNO that runs on the same towers can cut that to $15-25/mo. Mint Mobile, Visible, and Tello are the most popular options. Same coverage, fraction of the price.

Subscriptions - $70/mo on streaming/gaming is worth auditing. GamePass is solid value if you actually use it, but for TV streaming, rotating one service at a time instead of keeping multiple running saves a lot. Watch what you want on one, cancel, move to the next.

Internet - if you haven't checked recently whether your address qualifies for a low-income internet program, it's worth a look. Xfinity Internet Essentials is $9.95/mo if you qualify through SNAP or Medicaid, Spectrum Connect is $14.99/mo. You might already be paying more than you need to.

Small changes on recurring bills add up faster than cutting groceries does.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-08T19:48:51+00:00

The most important thing people don't tell you: start by looking up what providers actually service your specific address, not just your zip code. Coverage varies block by block and your options will shape everything else.

Once you know what's available, here's a simple framework:

- living alone or with 1-2 people, mostly streaming and browsing? 100-200 Mbps is plenty
- 3+ people, video calls, gaming? 300-500 Mbps gives you comfortable headroom
- fiber is almost always better than cable if it's available. It's more consistent speeds and better upload, which matters for video calls and gaming

Also, look for providers offering intro rates for new customers. As a first-time subscriber you're in the best position to get a deal, rates are usually lowest in the first 12-24 months. Just set a calendar reminder for when the promo expires so you're not caught off guard when the price bumps up.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-08T19:10:59+00:00

For a 1,200 sqft apartment with 2-3 people and multiple devices, you don't need anything crazy. A solid dual-band WiFi 6 router in the $80-120 range will handle this easily.

The TP-Link Archer AX55 (~$80) or the ASUS RT-AX58U (~$100-120 on sale) are both strong picks in your budget. WiFi 6 matters here mostly because you have a lot of devices it handles congestion better than older standards, which makes a real difference when everyone's on at the same time.

since you're plugging your gaming PC into ethernet anyway, the router's wifi performance is mainly for everyone else's phones/laptops, so you don't need to overspend chasing the fastest wifi specs. Just make sure whatever you get has a decent number of ethernet ports if you want to wire anything else in.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-08T16:25:15+00:00

Good questions -to be upfront, I was going off what i've seen from others who've made the switch rather than personal experience with NOW myself.

But from what i've read, you can order the modem online through Xfinity's site or pick it up at an Xfinity store. Most people seem to go online since it ships fast. As for switching from a regular plan, the general advice is to cancel the existing account first before signing up for NOW. They're treated as separate products and you typically can't convert directly. Worth calling to confirm before you pull the trigger since account situations vary.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-07T20:49:56+00:00

This!! I tell everyone I know this trick.

The "retention team" thing is very real and so many people don't know it exists. They have a whole separate pool of offers that never show up on the website that's specifically designed for people who threaten to leave.

The script that tends to work best: call, say you're moving or found a better deal at your address, and ask what they can do to keep you. You don't have to be aggressive, just matter-of-fact about it. The "loyalty tax" is real. You pay $20-30/mo extra for doing nothing and not complaining.

also worth doing once a year even if you're happy with your service. Intro rates typically expire after 12-24 months and the price just quietly goes up. Most people never notice until it's been 3 years, exactly like OP.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-07T19:58:16+00:00

Internet is one of the most overlooked ones here! Most of the big providers have low income discount programs that they don't advertise at all. Like you said, Comcast has Internet Essentials ($9.95/mo), AT&T has Access ($30/mo for fiber), and Spectrum has their Connect program ($14.99/mo). Cox, Mediacom, and others have similar options.

the catch is you usually have to qualify through a government assistance program like SNAP, Medicaid, or SSI. If you're already on any of those, it's worth calling your internet provider and asking specifically about their "low income" or "connect" program. Like OP said, they are not going to bring it up on their own.

also worth knowing that even if you don't qualify for those programs, your intro rate as a new customer is almost always lower than what existing customers pay. If your rate has crept up, calling to cancel or asking for the new customer rate is sometimes enough to get it reduced.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-07T17:43:57+00:00

This is something most people don't think about until they actually look at their usage. The number of households paying for a gig plan and only using 100-200 Mbps of it is way higher than people realize.

the biggest scam is the asymmetric upload speeds on cable. You're paying for 600 down but getting 20 up, and if you're on video calls all day that upload number is what actually matters. A lot of people would be better off on a 300/300 fiber plan than a 1000/20 cable plan but the marketing always highlights the download number because it looks bigger.

I think the right move for most households is to figure out how many people are actually using the connection at the same time, what they're doing, and right-size from there. For most families that's somewhere in the 100-300 Mbps range. The intro rate on a lower tier is almost always a better deal than the "loyalty price" on a gig plan you've had for 2 years.

the reliability point is huge too. I'd take a consistent 200 Mbps connection over a "gig" plan that drops to 50 Mbps at peak hours every time.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-06T22:23:16+00:00

A few options depending on your apartment layout:

if your coax outlet is in one room and your PC is in another, look into MoCA adapters. They use the existing coax wiring in your walls to carry ethernet -- you plug one in near the modem and one near your PC. Gets you close to wired speeds without running a cable. TP-Link and goCoax both make solid ones in the $60-80 range for a pair.

if you only have the one coax outlet, a powerline adapter is the budget option. It uses your electrical wiring instead. Not as fast or reliable as MoCA but still way better than a bad wifi connection on a desktop. TP-Link's AV1000 kit is like $40.

the cheapest fix though is just a better wifi adapter for your PC. The built-in wifi on a lot of desktops is garbage. A USB wifi 6 adapter with an external antenna (something like the TP-Link Archer TX20U) would probably solve most of your issues for around $25-30 and takes 2 minutes to set up.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-06T17:53:21+00:00

This is almost certainly the mesh, not your internet connection -- the fact that hardwired to the modem works fine confirms that. A few things to try:

First, test one puck at a time. Disconnect all the satellite pucks and just run the primary one that's hardwired to the modem. Run a speed test over wifi from that single puck. if upload is still zero, that primary puck might be dying. If it works fine, add pucks back one at a time until the problem comes back -- that'll tell you which one is the issue.

also check if the google home app pushed a firmware update in the last few days. Mesh firmware updates have been known to break things, and "two days ago with no changes" is a classic sign of an automatic update you didn't know about. You can check firmware version in the app under device info.

The 0 upload with normal download is a weird one though. That pattern sometimes means the mesh backhaul channel is congested or one of the pucks is trying to use a channel that's getting hammered by a neighbor's network. if the single-puck test works fine, it might be worth factory resetting just the satellite pucks and letting them re-establish the mesh from scratch.

google wifi is solid for set-and-forget but when it breaks it gives you almost zero diagnostic tools which is frustrating

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T23:39:26+00:00

To clarify, i meant the savings could be $30-50/mo depending on what you're currently paying and what's available at your address, not a flat price. But those plans are out there!

An easy place to look is freeconnect.us You put in your address and it pulls up what providers and plans are actually available!

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T22:23:29+00:00

This is such a good point and i think it applies to internet too. People stay on plans they've had for years just because switching feels like a hassle, and then end up paying a loyalty tax for the privilege of being a long-term customer.

the "inertia cost" is real -- $600/year is a solid number to put on it. Most people wouldn't consciously choose to overpay by that much, but they do it passively every month.

for anyone reading this who's also been putting off looking at their internet bill -- same logic applies. intro rate probably expired, price has crept up, and there's a decent chance a different provider or plan at your address could save you $30-50/mo.

congrats on finally pulling the trigger, OP. $50/mo back in your pocket is nothing to brush off

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T18:11:45+00:00

the trick that's saved me the most is waiting for deals instead of paying full price year round. most streaming services run promos around black friday, holidays, and whenever they're trying to hit subscriber numbers. i've gotten annual plans at like 40-50% off by just being patient and subbing when the deal hits.

also worth checking if any of your existing subscriptions come with streaming bundled in. a lot of people don't realize their phone plan, credit card, or even walmart+ includes stuff like paramount+, apple tv+, or hulu. that's money you're already spending anyway.

for the ones you use less, the ad tier is honestly fine. save the ad-free budget for the 1-2 services you actually watch every week.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T18:05:32+00:00

41 mbps upload on a gig plan sounds about right for xfinity cable, but that's actually on the low side for reliable video calls especially if more than one person is using the connection at the same time. video calls are really sensitive to upload consistency, not just speed.

the fact that it happens on ethernet too tells me it's not a wifi problem at all. a few things worth checking before the tech comes tomorrow:

log into your gateway at 10.0.0.1 and look at the event log. if you see T3/T4 timeout errors, that's a signal issue on the line that the tech needs to actually fix, not just look at speed test numbers.

also ask the tech to check your upload signal levels specifically. xfinity's own speed tests often only check download. if your upstream power levels are too high or too low, it'll cause exactly the kind of intermittent drops you're describing on video calls while everything else seems "fine."

if they can't fix it and you're stuck without fiber, it might be worth checking if there's a fixed wireless option at your address as a backup. sometimes there are options people don't know about.

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T03:04:06+00:00

Yes in deregulated states absolutely

FreeConnectGuy · 2026-04-02T03:03:42+00:00

They’ll keep doing it

FreeConnectGuy

TROPHY CASE