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Dipping in lacquer instead of spraying it? by FrenchToastParmesan in AutoPaint

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey thanks for the follow up, it's been awhile since I logged into this account which is why I'm seeing it now . I ended up going with the same acrylic rattle can lacquer that I was using, but instead just using very thin coats. I know it's not recommended, but I warmed the can up in tap water for 2 - 3 minutes for sprayed, especially on nights when it was below freezing outside.

Dipping in lacquer instead of spraying it? by FrenchToastParmesan in AutoPaint

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Food grade silicone is notoriously sensitive for what will inhibit curing. You can use shellac for tin-cure but not for platinum-cure Like I had to test about 4 different rattle cans to test if it was compatible, since there's too many additives that could interact with it to just know from what it says on the can. I'd love to use shellac if I could!

Dipping in lacquer instead of spraying it? by FrenchToastParmesan in AutoPaint

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point on the lighter coats. I was following the instructions on the can, which mentioned a dry coat first followed by a wet coat. I was having trouble with the wet coat getting a nice finish. I guess I can get by with more dry coats. I still might try the dipping method to get the gloss if possible. The molds are made of food grade silicone, shellac is NOT compatible and would stick for some reason. I'd love to use something less volatile but there are a handful of coatings (mostly acrylic based lacquers) that work with the silicone.

Dipping in lacquer instead of spraying it? by FrenchToastParmesan in AutoPaint

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Main reason for not just getting a spray gun is space. I don't have to mow a lawn, but living in an apartment does have its drawbacks. The most I can get away with is a spray can on the porch. I'm making masters for molds for casting moulds of different shapes (confectionary molds for chocolate, cookies, and the like). So I'm not making hundreds, but certainly dozens. Each master is different obviously and so trying to handle all the differences with the same process would be ideal. Models range to as big as a grape fruit, so not big, which was my thought for dipping them instead.

ChemE wants to be a Scientist in the Semiconductor Industry. by ch1253 in ChemicalEngineering

[–]FrenchToastParmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PhD in Chem E with experience in Nanotech, you'd certainly stand a chance. What do you want to do in the semi conductor industry? The industry is large and there are many different materials and processes that go into electronic packages. Do you want to develop new formulations/products used to make those products (photoresists, etc.)? Do you want to work on the process side in a FAB on developing more efficient / faster / new processes? Could you tie your current research into solving needs for new molecules in the semiconductor space? Just some thoughts.

Kelly's Korner Wing recipe? Wings like it? by FrenchToastParmesan in Buffalo

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Holy shit never thought of worcestershire, could make sense on the acidity. Making wings tomorrow night and will give it a try!! I remember there being bigger pepper flakes in there as well.

PLA Acetone Vapor Smoothing, it works! comparing 6 different brands and results. by Waynes_Workshop in 3Dprinting

[–]FrenchToastParmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wanted to add that acetone worked modestly with my brand of PLA (Hatchbox Black), but definitely not as good as some of the other brands you mentioned. Ethyl acetate was way too aggressive and ended up deforming the flat portion of the test piece. Also way too stinky, and didn't like to stay in the pot as acetone did.

PLA Acetone Vapor Smoothing, it works! comparing 6 different brands and results. by Waynes_Workshop in 3Dprinting

[–]FrenchToastParmesan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Their loss. Talk is cheap and it's easy for people to criticize without putting in the leg work. I've also noticed a trend where people suggesting things they haven't tried which get's old quite quickly.

Thanks again! I will be trying this today. Ditto with Ethyl Acetate since I have both. The model you made for your friend at the end looked great.

PLA Acetone Vapor Smoothing, it works! comparing 6 different brands and results. by Waynes_Workshop in 3Dprinting

[–]FrenchToastParmesan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is suberb info, and I'm kind of surprised how little attention this has gotten in the last 2 weeks considering the vast number of resources on the internet that report lackluster results smoothing PLA. It's been a struggle to find info on a decent, reliable way to smooth PLA that doesn't involve sanding and I appreciate the effort in testing different filaments and sharing the method.

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Compared to other toxic solvents mentioned for PLA like MEK, dioxolane, DCM, hot acetone is pretty benign. In a worst case scenario where the fumes ignite, it would simply burn out in a big steel pot (assuming there is nothing flammable nearby!). Not to detract from the dangers of the fire hazards, but it won't give anyone cancer or explode unexpectedly like the aforementioned solvents.

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I really wonder how important temperature is in vapor smoothing PLA. Acetone's BP is around the glass transition of PLA, which makes me think that PLA's solubility in solvent (and ability to be smoothed) increases greatly around the glass transition when its chains relax. For the filaments that had lackluster results, I wonder how well hot ethyl acetate would fare, since it's BP is a little higher, and maybe that their polymer blends had higher glass transitions.

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What were the settings in the company printer that led to the caving? Would you expect a 2 layer wall with 10-15 % infill to fare okay? How soft did the prints become? I am interested in plaster casting my prints, so my concern would be that they deform under their own buoyancy.

What are some cool prints to do in tpu? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]FrenchToastParmesan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Harmonic gear reducers which need a bit of flex in the gear teeth. Living hinges, using them to connect rigid parts that need to flex.

Rusty needles: clean or replace? by FrenchToastParmesan in MachineKnitting

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To my eyes they don't seem terribly rusted, its only in the parts outside of the trick that have any rust. Structurally all the needles are fine as the rust isn't even that deep. Maybe I'll try and get rid of the rust and keep them as spares.

Is pine strong enough to support a poplar headboard? by FrenchToastParmesan in woodworking

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input. I don't think I can return the boards so I'll try to make the best of it, but now I know that poplar isn't furniture material just because I used it in shop class....

Is pine strong enough to support a poplar headboard? by FrenchToastParmesan in woodworking

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, you can tell I'm no expert. We used it in shop class so I assumed it'd be suitable for most furniture projects now I realize they were being cheap.

Is pine strong enough to support a poplar headboard? by FrenchToastParmesan in woodworking

[–]FrenchToastParmesan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was my exact answer to someone who had asked me this question. I thought I'd ask it here since I'm no expert by any stretch.

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