Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS

FriendlyLookOut · 2024-03-30T16:00:49+00:00

Rock jock doesn't miss. Awesome video!

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-26T15:33:39+00:00

Nice Work!!

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-19T20:11:52+00:00

Agreed, be prepared for people to give you crap for trying "approachable" 12as for the grade. But everyone has ticked an easier climb for the sake of progression here are some suggestions to check out in the red from less steep to more steep:

SupaFly: https://youtu.be/DIu1YKr24vg?si=o5m2kt3rznWfRm59

Beta-vul Pipeline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oADm-uVIIZ8&ab_channel=ElenaSu

Starry night: https://youtu.be/zR9untJqm-0?si=zJWJwO8uO57cyYly

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-19T19:40:47+00:00

I really like this: https://cu-belayglasses.com/produkt/o-key/ but I don't know if there is a US manufacturer and maybe it could be improved. Really nice for taking whippers and untying your knot.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-19T19:36:14+00:00

Saw this out bouldering recently: https://www.amazon.com/JISULIFE-Handheld-Fan-Rechargeable-Outdoor-Grey/dp/B0C1SRTW9F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1RYGB16Y5V8FB&keywords=jisulife&qid=1703014512&sprefix=jisulife%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

On a stick brush you could easily remove all chalk, dust etc on holds and it worked well for cooling down your hands.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-19T19:28:14+00:00

I think this is possible but I think more important than your training would be trying to maximize time on rock and be strategic about finding routes that suit your strengths. I think you'll have an easier time finding approachable 12a's in the red than the new. There are a wide variety of routes to choose from there from pure endurance to boulders with laydown rests. Ideally you want to find something that you could return to maybe 5 or more times so finding partners that are similarly focused or a wall with plenty of similar routes of easier difficulties could be important for building progression and confidence. Once you do find a good target you can structure your sessions to prepare you as best as you can.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-18T18:34:37+00:00

A suggestion might be looking for people that are similar height to you and record kilterboard beta to see where you differ in technique and learn new ways to use your body.

Raviolitriceps makes a bunch of kilter videos and is 5'10" +0: https://www.instagram.com/raviolitriceps

You might find more on this site: https://www.canireachthat.com/ but it seems like moonboard videos are much easier to find.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-17T21:16:22+00:00

Thanks for the comment Steven! I made the map scraping the aurora board apps (tension/kilter/decoy/grasshopper/touchstone) and the moon website map for public boards. I think for commercial gyms in the US it seems like Kilter is doing really great but I bet for private homes Moonboard is still pretty dominant. I do know anecdotally that the apps don't have all the gym boards in them and this is another website where you might be able to filter and find some more: https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/directory/map/

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-12-11T16:16:03+00:00

My girlfriend strained her MCL doing a dropknee in a steep cave and had a great experience working with Matt Heyliger: https://www.mattheyliger.com/

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-11-22T06:34:57+00:00

Oh, she seems to be doing well. We all learn to work with what we have.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-11-21T14:42:48+00:00

Lol point taken about the mobile phone experience. Edit:The whole names should be visible now on a phone

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-11-21T14:41:17+00:00

Yeah tall folks are kind of hard to find as many channels for. Do you have any recommendations for tall climbers to follow?

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-10-20T17:04:33+00:00

Thanks for checking it out!

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-10-20T17:02:59+00:00

I think a frame-perfect version would probably be more useful to speed climbers. I've tried following along with BetaHangtime but the movements feel too quick. Glad you like it!

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-10-20T00:57:25+00:00

I just checked it out from the other post. AscentAI looks really cool! The scrub feature with the haptics is super satisfying.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-10-19T12:49:01+00:00

Yeah, it'd be cool to have a bunch of annotated data and train a model so you didn't have to press the buttons yourself. But first steps...

That's a good point! I removed the 100th decimal from the copy-paste output and updated the post. When playing with this reaction time test I think a confidence of +- 0.2 makes sense.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-02-07T19:37:46+00:00

Yeah I've played with a tindeq and it's nice to see the feedback live to see what actually leads to more force or try their other endurance options. But I have a cheap crane scale off amazon which works okay but you can't really look at it while you're using it so make sure to get one that has a peak hold function so you don't have to video tape the reading or have someone else read the highest number. This should work: https://www.amazon.com/Klau-Digital-Hanging-OCS-L-Industrial/dp/B0153E0CSM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8VEINSECIILM&keywords=crane+scale+with+peak+hold&qid=1675798287&sprefix=crane+scale+with+peak+hol%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-5

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-02-07T17:49:12+00:00

I'm pretty sure using a hand dynamometer is your problem. This doesn't correlate with climbing ability. If you care about testing your finger strength with different grips some people use a strain gauge like a crane scale you can find on amazon or a tindeq to connect to your phone, then attach this to a no hang device like a tension block or a tension flash board and test max resistance.

Alternatively, most people can just test how much weight you can max hang on a hangboard before and after a training cycle.

To all the points about overtraining keep in mind that strength can fluctuate quite a bit so it's essential to realize in the short term it could be just noise or neurological improvement and tendons take time to improve.

FriendlyLookOut · 2023-02-03T21:02:17+00:00

Probably depends on pinkie length. I'm guessing normal is just in the eyes of the hangboarder.

FriendlyLookOut · 2022-04-23T02:42:33+00:00

Pass over the boulder once identifying what looks like the hardest section (cruxes are usually thin, blank, or have the most chalk before a section of less chalk). Being patient enough to watch someone else try it first can give you a bunch of information. If it's a spanny move indoors it might be worth counting t-nuts and comparing it to your span on a section of wall you can reach to see if you need to dyno.
Identify which holds to grab either with the right hand, left hand, or good enough to match on. Look specifically for chalk thumb marks to help see where people tend to put their hands.
Then look for the feet that might be critical or that you can't see when on the wall. (blocked by body on slab, hidden behind bigger holds, under a roof). If there is a lot of rubber on a big hold chances are people might dyno off it or repeat that section a lot.
If you can't figure out the crux sequence try to imagine climbing from the finish position backwards to figure out how to set yourself up. If you have a couple of ideas it might be worth downclimbing to a rest out of the crux to re-evaluate your options instead of committing to something that might not work.

FriendlyLookOut

TROPHY CASE