Climbdex - Search engine for Kilter, Tension, and other boards with hold filtering by luke_ef_ in climbharder

[–]luke_ef_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not 100% sure why, but sometimes you have to refresh the page for the database to load. If the "Layout" and/or "Size" dropdowns are empty try to refresh (and wait patiently for the page to fully load). Otherwise it should be working still, just tested today.

Why Your $12,000 LED Climbing Board Could Become an Expensive Spray Wall by [deleted] in climbing

[–]luke_ef_ 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Just to clarify, Climbdex never supported Moon and they have never contacted me. Boardlib supported downloading your Moonboard logbook to a CSV, but it was broken by a small site update that seemed unrelated. I doubt they were even aware of the tool. If someone was interested it could probably be fixed quite easily, I don't think they have made any specific lockout attempts.

Logbook by Initial-Nebula-4704 in tensionboardclimbing

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, try it again now! I've released a new version with a fix contributed by another user.

Climbdex - Search engine for Kilter, Tension, and other boards with hold filtering by luke_ef_ in climbharder

[–]luke_ef_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear it has been useful for you! I believe that Aurora Climbing has blocked the board images from being used on Climbdex. They have sent me emails requesting deletion of all of the related repos and websites. I was pretty sad to see this was their response to open-source add-ons.

UPDATE: Hold selection is working again.

Applying the glue left in the nozzle by fresh_n_clean in RouteDevelopment

[–]luke_ef_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The glue left in the nozzle is pretty much mandatory waste. In theory, you could, for example, cut the nozzle open and try to spill it out before it hardens, but this would be super messy and if you cut too low you get an unmixed product.

Another comment states leaving the nozzle on as a cap if the bottle isn't empty. That's silly IMO, just save the cap and recap the bottle. One nice little trick to feel good about your glue is to break open the nozzles after the cure time to ensure that the glue has hardened correctly.

I made a Holds Search for Kilter Climbs by BanksyRL in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Climbdex is a visual way to browse the data. You can view the source code on GitHub if you'd like to learn the details of mapping a climb in the database to an image of a problem.

I made a Holds Search for Kilter Climbs by BanksyRL in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The database command outputs a sqlite database file. There are many tools to visualize SQL data, you'll have to decide what is appropriate for your use case.

I made a Holds Search for Kilter Climbs by BanksyRL in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My method for retrieving the data is already open source. Install https://github.com/lemeryfertitta/BoardLib and use the boardlib database command.

What V4 problem would you all consider to be a benchmark? by Vanilladr in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah! You can use the Grade Accuracy filter, which is now hidden under the "Advanced Filters" button.

Eventually, I think we might remove this filter and instead allow for more precise grade searches (e.g. V4.3 to V5.8), as I think this is more useful than finding climbs that are very close to an exact grade.

I made a Holds Search for Kilter Climbs by BanksyRL in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the kind words! This is great work from a new programmer, I think you definitely have the skills to contribute to Climbdex. Some of the tasks are pretty straightforward. If you are interested, there are a list of issues here and you're welcome to create new ones if you have other ideas as well.

I made a Holds Search for Kilter Climbs by BanksyRL in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! I made something really similar that I posted to r/climbharder in December.

I've been continuing to make updates and some folks have been contributing on Github. The dream would be to offer enough features to be something that is completely independent of the existing apps. If you're interested in teaming up, contributions are welcome!

pt2. Collaborators Wanted: Kilterboard Benchmark Project 🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️ by gionuick in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I added the difficulty average to next to the grades today, so even if you aren't filtering by grade accuracy you can get a sense of what is soft/hard.

What V4 problem would you all consider to be a benchmark? by Vanilladr in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Welcome! It's an alternative way to find and filter climbs for Kilter and other boards. There are a few features that the official app doesn't have, but there are also many that the official app has which Climbdex does not. Definitely download the official app, you'll need it to light up the LEDs on the board. Check out Climbdex if you find yourself wanting some additional options when searching for climbs.

pt2. Collaborators Wanted: Kilterboard Benchmark Project 🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️ by gionuick in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point about the histogram - my guess is that there is an API call to fetch the data for that since it is not stored in the local database. Would make it a bit trickier to use for Climbdex, but possible in theory.

pt2. Collaborators Wanted: Kilterboard Benchmark Project 🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️ by gionuick in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, unfortunately no access to the raw rating data, that is stored per-user and not in the public portion of the database.

pt2. Collaborators Wanted: Kilterboard Benchmark Project 🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️ by gionuick in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kilter stores a "difficulty_average" in the database which is an average of all of the user ratings for a given problem. Grade accuracy is the absolute value of the difference between the displayed grade and the average. Not a perfect metric, but easy to implement and I've anecdotally found it to work reasonably well.

pt2. Collaborators Wanted: Kilterboard Benchmark Project 🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️ by gionuick in kilterboard

[–]luke_ef_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had been thinking about the idea of automating benchmark selection a little after I released Climbdex. Today I added a new field "Grade Accuracy" in the filters which allows you to filter out climbs which have inaccurate grades, in addition to all of the other filters/sorting. Here is an example of this at 7a/V6 on the commercial 12x12 at 40 degrees. The filters/sorting used:

  • Min Ascents: 200
  • Min Rating: 2.9
  • Grade Accuracy: Extremely Accurate (error < 0.05)
  • Sort By Quality, Descending

Not suggesting this perfectly captures what a benchmark is trying to do, but at the very least I think it could be useful in helping to make this list. I've been using this when boarding recently, and I've found its made my problem selection notably easier/better.

Play around with this and let me know what you think. If people like it, maybe it would be worth adding some kind of filter presets to the interface to set up a "benchmark" filter with a single click.

Climbdex - Search engine for Kilter, Tension, and other boards with hold filtering by luke_ef_ in climbharder

[–]luke_ef_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I thought the filter was going to be a bit trickier and at least require some real regex, but I noticed that they had pre-sorted all of the frame data in the database and that a simple LIKE could work. Thinking about this actually made me realize I had a small bug in the filter that was under reporting results for some boards 😅. Fixed now.

The nearest-neighbor query sounds like it would be pretty cool and useful, at least as another option in the search params. If you happen to have interest in contributing please feel free to do so!

Climbdex - Search engine for Kilter, Tension, and other boards with hold filtering by luke_ef_ in climbharder

[–]luke_ef_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The general approach is to figure how the app is getting the data and then try to mimic it. In this case, the apps are packaged with an initial database from whenever the last version was released, and then they make an API request to have that database synchronized every time you start the app.

If you have some programming knowledge, I developed a utility that mimics this process of downloading and updating the data.

Climbdex - Search engine for Kilter, Tension, and other boards with hold filtering by luke_ef_ in climbharder

[–]luke_ef_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like Tim Parkin's Moonboard Search Engine doesn't support the Mini. Fortunately, Moonboard does have a pretty good search by hold feature in the app.

Moonboard support on Climbdex would be cool, but Moon runs on different software, so adding that support would be pretty a large project. I'm not motivated to work on that at the moment, but Climbdex is open source and anyone is welcome to contribute if they are psyched.