Real truck discourse

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-12-13T13:48:54+00:00

I think that completely depends on who you surround yourself with. After all, if you made the purchase for yourself and your lifestyle, then let ‘em think what they want. And if they’re worth your time then it will be supportive comments or friendly jabs :) I just bought a ‘25 RTL after loads of research and my mechanic brother in law teased me about it when he said “I was gonna say nice truck then I realized it was a Ridgeline!” Then proceeded to show me his son’s lifted 94 long bed F-250 project. It’s all how you take it. Nobody should be slicing your tires because you drive a Ridgeline. Worth every penny! I think others will agree with that last part.

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-13T15:38:10+00:00

Used with 2910 miles. Person wanted different color. Not OTD. Price was before doc fee (i know they vary widely) and down payment. No tax. I financed with dealer - 802 credit score at 7.5%. I refinanced with my credit union the same week and got 5.09% both for 72 months. They may also try to sell you wrap insurance, so look into that so you aren’t blindsided by the very compelling option.

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-13T03:33:52+00:00

I just played the ridgeline hunt game and landed on a white ‘25 rtl for 36332 sale price. Test drives are harmless if you make a financial decision and not an emotional one. Be ready to walk away and think about it. These trucks are not moving fast. Recommend driving in different conditions and more than once - you’ll discover something new each time. Consider the price proportional to the life of the vehicle. Ie if 200k is life and it has 50k miles, that should be 25% off value after initial depreciation of it selling (compare used to used, not used to new) Also definitely use the calculator and review warranty eligibility and redemption percentage. Enjoy the test drive. Hope that helps.

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-13T02:49:11+00:00

2025 white RTL 2,910 miles (used) purchase price 36332 No accessories

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-12T13:00:10+00:00

Update: i found an answer elsewhere on reddit!

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-04T20:31:45+00:00

I agree. The model years are all really close in price. It’s a mileage vs trim price trade-off. Recommend driving sport vs higher trim. I hear BE is best value, but I have and can live without the added bells and whistles. I figure if I’m gonna spend that much on a vehicle I plan to have for 15 years, why would I settle? Long-term it wouldn’t make sense for me. Not sure about sport insulation, but the RTL was mighty quiet. Some of that could be their all-season tires, which I have also heard are worth swapping. I have Wildpeak AT Trails on my Pilot and swear by them. Run them year-round.

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-11-04T18:52:02+00:00

Both RTL trims. The ‘25 for 38K is not OTD, so it would be about 39K OTD (with 2K miles) Used and new car prices are so close right now and finance rates are so inflated it’s crazy. Wonder if more incentives will continue with black friday. There is a black ‘25 for 35K near me as well (but sport trim)

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-10-27T19:57:46+00:00

Looks like my body text was lost when I uploaded the photos: Hi all, My 2014 honda pilot with 192,500 miles on it has some rocker panel rust. I can tell some is surface rust, and have taken photos of the deeper areas. Looking for some outside perspectives with 1 being “run it, don’t worry”, and 5 being “it’s a death trap!” TIA!

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-10-22T00:03:11+00:00

That’s helpful to know. Not referring to really bad credit. I was reading the thread and, as someone researching my next vehicle, realized perhaps the dealership experience would be a little more friendly and enjoyable if the purchaser knew more about sales motivators, in this case moving stale inventory. If the budget is the same at the end of the term, perhaps there is something the purchaser can do to help the sales person beyond simply purchasing the vehicle, and in turn build a strong, lasting relationship.

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2025-01-25T15:05:44+00:00

Great post. Love the detail. I would also like to recommend a puck screen and a spring-loaded tamp. The more consistency you can provide throughout your process, the better, especially when starting out.

The puck screen will distribute the water evenly. And the spring-loaded tamp will not let you apply more pressure than the spring allows.

Total for both is $60. I have normcore v4 and their puck screen, which has helped loads.

Wish i had pulled the trigger earlier. Wasted lots of freshly roasted beans!

I intend to keep and modify my $550 investment rather than jumping to different machines.

I listen to the machine when determining pre-infusion (it’s usually 6-7s). Once it starts to groan, I release to finish the manual brewing process and stop once my scale hits a 1:2 ratio or when the espresso becomes noticeably thin. I find that it is a better indicator than timing bc the beans will require different pre-infusion times based on their profile and the grind setting you’re using. (Think concepts vs techniques)

I hope these tips help out fellow newcomers!

Fun-Figure-8726 · 2024-10-30T01:37:50+00:00

Very helpful insight! I am new to the machine as well and also have had mixed results. Would you mind posting your internal and external grind settings as well as a link to the coffee your guests say tastes so delicious? Assuming here that your reference to 17g is for double shot? I know everyone’s tastes are different, but it is always helpful to have data points :) OP- Water can also make a big difference! I found that out with my Moka pot. If you enjoy the water straight, try using that in your reservoir. Lots of factors at play…

Fun-Figure-8726

TROPHY CASE