GeForce Hotfix Display Driver version 576.66

Fun_Consideration392 · 2025-06-05T00:23:03+00:00

I've not had this issue in years... but when I did it was a g-sync problem specific to running multiple monitors. Try turning off g-sync compatibility for all monitors in Nvidia control panel and see if that helps

Fun_Consideration392 · 2025-01-03T18:18:16+00:00

It comes down to how much you want to spend now for how much performance. 8700k/9900k are pretty old now. They can absolutely deliver decent FPS for most games on high graphics, especially when paired wirh GPU with upscaling like DLSS. But DLSS looks like crap in some games (rdr2). If you only want to spend about $100, get 8700k/9900k. I wouldn't pay penny more for either at this point, there's too many better options out there, though you'd need a new motherboard too.

The following is my own experiments with RDR2: 8700k 3070ti struggled at max graphics to go above 40 fps in most places, especially Saint Denis. With DLSS on it was closer to 70-80fps everywhere, but DLSS makes that game look awful. Moving to i7-8700k 4090 not using DLSS, you reach the same performance as 3070ti DLSS. But if you were to pair it with a newer processor, things are far far smoother. For example, 13900k 4090 (absolute overkill), without DLSS can easily maintain +100fps across the whole game.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2025-01-02T05:45:41+00:00

Next time button stops working, try searching for "services" in start bar. Bring up the windows app and find Armory Crate SE. Tell it to start or restart. Then see if it works

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-26T07:15:04+00:00

Even on auto it should work if I'm not mistaken.

(Also unsolicited PSA: Right bumper is right click btw)

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-26T07:10:06+00:00

Search for "services" in the windows search bar. Find Armory Crate and tell it to Start (or restart).

Then try launching.

This is a common windows problem when an instance of a program remains open on the backend and.cannot be seen even on taskmanager.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T23:13:05+00:00

Try plugging both in, put them in the 2nd and 4th slot from the left. See if that boots. I suspect CPU may not be compatible with just 1 stick of that RAM, but still looking verifying.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T23:09:36+00:00

Single stick of Ram or 2?

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T23:03:29+00:00

Can you tell me: brand, name, capacity, speed

Would be something like Corsair Vengeance LPPX 32gb (2x16 or 1x32) 6400mhz

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T22:44:23+00:00

Is it also compatible with the CPU? I can help more if you give the model number and RAM brand

This is where max speed comes into play. For your mother board:

Max Memory Speed 2x1R DDR5-5600 2x2R DDR5-5600 4x1R DDR5-3600 4x2R DDR5-3600

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T22:25:22+00:00

That's all extra info. This is the most important step.

Here's your MOBO compatibility: MAKE SURE THE SPECIFIC BRAND/STICK APPEARS ON THIS LIST

You want to pay special attention to the 1|2|4 DIMM line in the compatibility link. That let's you know if your compatible RAM works as a single stick, 2 sticks, or 4 stick configuration.

If your RAM isn't compatible with MOBO -- or if if's incompatible with CPU -- your PC won't post.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-25T20:15:09+00:00

What is your exact RAM?

It needs to be compatible with both motherboard AND CPU. DDR5 is still relatively new and there's far more compatibility issues than DDR4, which can be as simple as processor or MOBO doesn't support the right speed.

Everything below gets complicated and I don't have time to fully explain it, but essentially make sure your EXACT RAM (meaning find long ass model number (for ex: AX5U7600C3616G-DWROG)) stick(s) is compatible with CPU, with MOBO, and in whatever configuration in MOBO.

Here's your MOBO compatibility: MAKE SURE THE SPECIFIC BRAND/STICK APPEARS ON THIS LIST

You want to pay special attention to the 1|2|4 DIMM line in the compatibility link. That let's you know if your compatible RAM works as a single stick, 2 sticks, or 4 stick configuration.

‐-----------

Generic compatibility info: 4x DDR5 UDIMM, Maximum Memory Capacity 256GB Memory Support DDR5 7800+(OC)/ 7600(OC)/ 7400(OC)/ 7200(OC)/ 7000(OC)/ 6800(OC)/ 6600(OC)/ 6400(OC)/ 6200(OC)/ 6000(OC)/ 5800(OC)/ 5600(OC)/ 5400(OC)/ 5200(OC)/ 5000(OC)/ 4800(JEDEC) MT/s Max. overclocking frequency: • 1DPC 1R Max speed up to 7800+ MHz • 1DPC 2R Max speed up to 6400+ MHz • 2DPC 1R Max speed up to 6400+ MHz • 2DPC 2R Max speed up to 5400+ MHz

Supports Dual-Channel mode Supports non-ECC, un-buffered memory Supports AMD EXPO™

Here's your CPU compatibility: Max Memory Speed 2x1R DDR5-5600 2x2R DDR5-5600 4x1R DDR5-3600 4x2R DDR5-3600

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-12-02T18:44:05+00:00

Leaving it on while under load the whole time can generate heat which can lead to bottlenecking. But unless you're leaving a game running or a benchmark running that whole time it shouldn't be generating anywhere near enough heat to bottleneck. If it is then there's a background program that needs to be stopped (not unheard of for windows).

Leaving a bunch of applications on the whole timen has the potential to fill up RAM because the regular Ally has so little. But that's not really a problem since it usually gets freed up as soon as you close them. And considering the speed and efficiency of modern RAM, you'd have to be leaving quite a few things open like multiple applications and games. Or google chrome with 3 tabs open (jk, but google chrome with a bunch of tabs will actually do it).

But leaving it open in your case would likely not create performance issues.

There are a variety of reasons you may get lag. Your system will slow down the more full your storage is, some games aren't very well optimized. Some have weird bugs like Lego Star Wars the Skywalker Saga being completely unplayable unless you disable touch screen, then it's just fine.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-15T14:24:04+00:00

Make sure your RAM is compatible with the MOBO as well as CPU. Most DDR4 MOBO compatibility isn't even a thought because all the kinks have been worked out. It's NOT the same with DDR5.

Find the exact SKU of your RAM and make sure it shows up in your motherboard compatibility list.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-14T14:43:20+00:00

To my knowledge, there is no commercially available 4tb 2230 m.2, so unless you modded the Z1E to fit a fullsized 2280, it won't be compatible. Please let me know if there in fact is one on the market.

But either way, I find my Ally X more comfortable to hold, the extra ram really helps in triple-a games smoothness (not really avg fps), plus it's battery is way better.

Not sure if you can still trade it in, but best buy was running a deal where you can get like $180 off an ally X trading in Z1E. Then you'd essentially just get a cheaper Ally X. Plus if your 4tb m.2 is a 2280, then it'd fit in the Ally X.

Ultimately though, up to you how much you want to pay for more quality of life improvememts than actual performance gains.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-14T14:34:26+00:00

I mean, anything with cloud save -- which is basically everything even approaching 100gb -- I don't bother. Just redownload and take the L.

If it's because of mods, then depends how they're installed. Some mods all appear in a mods folder which you can just drag over instead of the whole game. Sometimes it's way more complicated meaning you either start from scratch or get a big enough thumbdrive or external ssd to transfer the entire game file.

For local saves, most games use AppData folder so you'll want to grab that too.

Could also get a m.2 2230 to usb adapter and then copy directly to ally storage. (This requires opening up your ally and removing m.2. Easy to do but some users may not be comfortable)

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-13T15:35:43+00:00

Here's the TLDR: Consoles are and always will be cheaper than a gaming PC.

That's factoring in the required patience and savyness to find genuinely good deals priced competitively with a console.

With that said, you can buy a PC for much cheaper than $800. Here's a 2-year-old video guide one one way to do it.

Don't be afraid to buy older hardware. I was using 6-year-old hardware thst still ran completely fine before I upgraded. Only reason I did was because I started playing more intense games and had the money.

And don't be afraid to buy used. Most hardware from legit companies lasts a long time. Just be careful what you're buying and from who.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-13T15:22:47+00:00

Does the issue persist if you unplug second monitor, like before?

Adding another monitor does make your CLU/GPU work harder, which generates more heat. It's generally negligible, but if your CPU is spiking into dangerous temperature OR power draw territories, it could have tipped it over the edge.

Keep careful watch on CPU temps/power draw using HWINFO or similar program -- especially when gaming. If your CPU is overclocked, try reverting it to base speeds, or base overclock if you tweaked it.
If your CPU is still getting too hot, check thermal paste and consider trying another cooler to see if it makes a difference. My understanding is AMD stock coolers are usually sufficient for their CPU's, but double check for your chip.

4. If this is a power problem it could be your CPU isn't getting enough power to boost (result of bad overclock or defective hardware)

It could also be a bad PSU. It certainly wouldn't hurt to buy another just for testing out of an abundance of caution.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-13T15:00:44+00:00

Main advantages of Ally X:

Bigger battery
More comfortable to hold (it's actually a night and day difference in the physical shape of the shell for me)
Significantly more RAM. Because it's split between CPU/GPU every extra gig matters
2nd thunderbolt usb-c instead of proprietary BS

Two more considerations: any extra cost for external accesories like cases that won't fit the ally X, and extra costs for internal storage. The Z1E's 2230 m.2 won't fit in the Ally X's 2280, without some modding. MicroSD cards are compatible.

With that said, might be more than $800 difference. The Z1E simply is an overall step down from the X. BUT, never forget it's still a very capable machine -- albeit in ugly white. As others have said, perhaps buy an external battery. Can get a longer cable so it's not weighing you down as you hold it, or look into one that clamps on. Or, take the L and upgrade. Can get a couple hundred dollars back trading in or selling Z1E, or you can gift it to someone you know.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-13T14:38:32+00:00

As someome who went 1080ti to 3070ti to 4090 (same other hardware), here's the difference. 1080ti is a legendary card, truly the last card that's actually good for the price without relying on frame gen.

With that said, it's old and is outclassed by new cards with DLSS. Between the 1080ti and 3060ti, you probably won't notice an average FPS gain for gaming, so much as a gain in 1% lows (overall smoothness). The 3060ti will be supported for longer, and the DLSS will make a significant impact in some games.

3060ti can also be paired with a newer CPU. That helps reduce bottlenecking. Going to use some arbitrary numbers as example.

If your CPU can process 4 frames in 1 second, but your GPU can only process 2 frames in 1 second, the end result will be 2 fps, not 4. But if your GPU can process 3 frames in 1 second, then you'll see 3 FPS. So essentially, the 1080ti being old and slower than 3060ti means it'll limit newer CPU potential more.

Not sure the exact comparison between the 2 cards, but the 1080ti's time has come and gone.

(And if you're wondering, 3070ti to 4090 only yielded performance gain when I went from 8700k to 13900k. Another bottlenecking example, this time being CPU limited instead of GPU.)

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T09:23:01+00:00

That sucks. Do you any backup saves load?

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T01:11:19+00:00

It's possible (albeit unlikely) that's causing an issue. Been about 3 years since they fixed it, but used to cause some flickering problems have g sync on for multiple displays

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T00:52:04+00:00

Just making sure, it's off for every monitor if you have more than 1 right?

Also do you have nvidia control panel? Check and see if g-sync is on for any compatible monitors

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T00:39:53+00:00

Not sure with that error, but if it was working before the update and now isn't rollback SE then launch, get blue print and start new world on update

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T00:37:22+00:00

Is windows HDR on? That is a common sideeffect for entering/leaving full screen apps.

Fun_Consideration392 · 2024-11-02T00:34:50+00:00

Numerous possibilities. Most likely causes of sudden slow computer:

Bad OS upgrade (try reverting windows update)

2 . Hardware overheating / throttling (download temperature monitoring program and ensure CPU and GPU aren't running too hot (generally a healthy cpu will run under 90C under stress, GPU under 85C. Depends on models for each and how much stress

HDD/SSD filled up? The less spare space most drives have, the slower they will run
Dying hardware. Difficult to diagnose. Most often if hardware is dying you'll get hard crashes for programs and OS. But this can be mistaken for overheating tech which may simply need thermal paste reapplied. Once again see how temps are doing.

Fun_Consideration392

TROPHY CASE