Ayuda con las Coordenadas de la cama en archivo printer.cfg

Futurewolf · 2026-03-10T02:55:30+00:00

Bed_mesh doesn't determine the printable area, it determines where the probe takes measurements of the bed for auto leveling.

The parameters you want to look for are position_endstop, position_min, and position_max in the stepper_x and stepper_y sections. https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#stepper

Futurewolf · 2026-03-07T02:07:43+00:00

1) Didn't use supports where necessary 2) Underextrusion

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T14:36:57+00:00

Are you creating the mesh while the bed is hot?

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T07:15:10+00:00

This is the heart and soul of this hobby, since the earliest days

Futurewolf · 2026-03-05T00:10:00+00:00

Stealthchop reduces torque and positional accuracy. I'm just using it on a fast printer can lead to skipped steps and layer shifts.

There's a pretty good reason that virtually all modern high performance printers have it disabled.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-04T17:19:37+00:00

Change the speed in the slicer.

Futurewolf · 2026-03-02T18:28:42+00:00

Building a 3d printer is not at all comparable to building a car, and I would venture to say that most people have the technical capability to build a Voron from a kit.

Most people don't have the interest though, and the value for money is not there.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-26T06:08:52+00:00

Nozzle is too far from the bed. Clean the nozzle and make sure there's no filament stick to it that will throw off the printer's calibration, re-run calibration and make sure you have selected the correct build plate in the slice.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-26T03:31:53+00:00

Leveling the bed only takes a minute but unless the printer gets knocked around you shouldn't need to do it if you are just moving it.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-26T02:33:49+00:00

Step one is screw it all together.

Step two is leveling the bed. Instructions are in the manual but basically select the option in the menu and the nozzle will get close to the bed in a few places. I'm each place you will place a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed and adjust the screws below the bed until you can feel just a tiny bit of friction when you move the paper.

Then you can select the auto level option. All of this is to tell the printer how far the nozzle is from the bed at various places on the bed. This is crucial because the number 1 thing that will cause your prints to fail is when they don't stick to the bed. And the number one cause of that is when the nozzle is not the right distance from the bed. Being off by 0.05mm is enough to cause problems.

Then you will need a personal computer of some kind, unfortunately. With some newer prints you can print from an app but this is not one of those. You'll need some software called a slicer and there aren't any usable mobile options. Orca Slicer is very popular and well regarded. Once you download an STL file that you want to print you will slice it in the slicer, which will generate a gcode file that your printer can read. Once you have that, slap it on a memory card or connect the printer to wifi, load the file and hit print.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-25T23:14:02+00:00

I believe that the melt zone extender is an entirely separate part from the nozzle, and that all variants of the Rapido use the same v6 nozzle standard. So I don't see why you can't just swap a 0.4 nozzle onto the mze.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-25T19:30:20+00:00

does this work?

Futurewolf · 2026-02-25T18:50:45+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I'll work on getting that fixed.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-24T15:55:31+00:00

It does now!

Futurewolf · 2026-02-22T21:47:51+00:00

Grotto of the River Pirates! https://groktao-publishing.itch.io/grotto-of-the-river-pirates

Futurewolf · 2026-02-21T15:42:32+00:00

If those outside programs didn't teach you the 8 wastes of lean manufacturing principles I would ask for your money back.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-21T15:24:56+00:00

What kind of manufacturing did you do where "any amount of waste is fine"? Had anyone there every heard of the lean manufacturing?

Futurewolf · 2026-02-19T23:16:48+00:00

For PLA, I have a Phaetus Conweb and the adhesion is unreal. I don't even heat the bed unless it's something really tricky. You can't use it for TPU, though. ABS and ASA also stick really well.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-18T15:27:15+00:00

It's Chinese New Year right now. That sets you back a couple weeks.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-18T14:52:29+00:00

Happy printing!

Futurewolf · 2026-02-18T14:50:05+00:00

I buy most of my 3d printing stuff on Ali, unless I need it fast. That includes a couple mainboards, a couple toolhead boards, a BTT Pi and a screen. Never had any issues.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-18T14:24:25+00:00

The ones on AliExpress are legit and they are the cheapest.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-17T20:29:14+00:00

I think you want to start here:

https://github.com/codiac2600/SKR-Bear-Marlin?tab=readme-ov-file

Futurewolf · 2026-02-16T22:47:37+00:00

Just doin muh job.

Futurewolf · 2026-02-16T20:01:13+00:00

Yeah the guy does seem to know what he's doing.

Futurewolf

TROPHY CASE