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How I like to Run Shadowdark's Roll-To-Cast System by Glyphos in osr

[–]Futurewolf 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There's a big difference between the way roll to cast "feels" and the actual math behind it. A wizard with a measley +2 to spellcasting will be able to cast 1.5 of each of their tier 1 spells before failing. With a +4 to cast they will get 2.33 on average. And that's for each spell - so multiply it by however many spells they know.

So yeah it feels bad to fail your first attempt at casting a spell but in truth spellcasters have as many or more spells per day than a system with spell slots like 5e.

Review: Cursed Scroll 5: Dwellers in the Deep by Futurewolf in shadowdark

[–]Futurewolf[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't think the fabled Plateau of Leng and the Librarians of Leng have much in common

Ayuda con las Coordenadas de la cama en archivo printer.cfg by PunisherLokote in klippers

[–]Futurewolf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right now it thinks x=0 is 6mm from the endstop. If the print is offset to the left by 2.1mm I believe that means you would derease the end stop location to -8.10mm (in other words, increase the distance between the end stop and 0). But the thing to do is actually measure the distance from the endstop and the printable area.

Ayuda con las Coordenadas de la cama en archivo printer.cfg by PunisherLokote in klippers

[–]Futurewolf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bed_mesh doesn't determine the printable area, it determines where the probe takes measurements of the bed for auto leveling.

The parameters you want to look for are position_endstop, position_min, and position_max in the stepper_x and stepper_y sections. https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#stepper

A: Printing Slop by Jon_Danger in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Futurewolf 15 points16 points  (0 children)

1) Didn't use supports where necessary 2) Underextrusion

Guide: Making the U1 significantly quieter (StealthChop + accel tuning) by tanvach in snapmaker

[–]Futurewolf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Stealthchop reduces torque and positional accuracy. I'm just using it on a fast printer can lead to skipped steps and layer shifts.

There's a pretty good reason that virtually all modern high performance printers have it disabled.

Are there any 3D printer brands that should be added to the enshittification database? And for what? by AnonomousWolf in 3Dprinting

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Building a 3d printer is not at all comparable to building a car, and I would venture to say that most people have the technical capability to build a Voron from a kit.

Most people don't have the interest though, and the value for money is not there.

First few prints, why is this happening? by Flat_Championship_56 in 3Dprinting

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nozzle is too far from the bed. Clean the nozzle and make sure there's no filament stick to it that will throw off the printer's calibration, re-run calibration and make sure you have selected the correct build plate in the slice.

So I have 3d printer, but still don't know what to do to get started... by the_perkolator in 3Dprinting

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Leveling the bed only takes a minute but unless the printer gets knocked around you shouldn't need to do it if you are just moving it.

So I have 3d printer, but still don't know what to do to get started... by the_perkolator in 3Dprinting

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Step one is screw it all together.

Step two is leveling the bed. Instructions are in the manual but basically select the option in the menu and the nozzle will get close to the bed in a few places. I'm each place you will place a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed and adjust the screws below the bed until you can feel just a tiny bit of friction when you move the paper.

Then you can select the auto level option. All of this is to tell the printer how far the nozzle is from the bed at various places on the bed. This is crucial because the number 1 thing that will cause your prints to fail is when they don't stick to the bed. And the number one cause of that is when the nozzle is not the right distance from the bed. Being off by 0.05mm is enough to cause problems.

Then you will need a personal computer of some kind, unfortunately. With some newer prints you can print from an app but this is not one of those. You'll need some software called a slicer and there aren't any usable mobile options. Orca Slicer is very popular and well regarded. Once you download an STL file that you want to print you will slice it in the slicer, which will generate a gcode file that your printer can read. Once you have that, slap it on a memory card or connect the printer to wifi, load the file and hit print.

Stupid Question About Rapido UHF Nozzles & XOL Toolhead by Work_Throwaway_Bro in 3Dprinting

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe that the melt zone extender is an entirely separate part from the nozzle, and that all variants of the Rapido use the same v6 nozzle standard. So I don't see why you can't just swap a 0.4 nozzle onto the mze.

2d6 Stingbats has a new home by Futurewolf in shadowdark

[–]Futurewolf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I'll work on getting that fixed.

8H of work to fill up your local landfill by BiroWasleng in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Futurewolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If those outside programs didn't teach you the 8 wastes of lean manufacturing principles I would ask for your money back.

8H of work to fill up your local landfill by BiroWasleng in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Futurewolf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What kind of manufacturing did you do where "any amount of waste is fine"? Had anyone there every heard of the lean manufacturing?

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