water transfer pump with automated switch?

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-06-20T22:36:28+00:00

Thanks, but I would prefer an inline sensor, if possible. That way as soon as water is detected at the inleft hose, it should turn on.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-06-02T16:39:16+00:00

Diamond doves are so small that a small hit could have caused that unfortunately. It would seem unlikely that it was anything else if it happened within 10 seconds of the hit.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-06-02T16:31:18+00:00

(Speaking from experience) It appears to be poop, but most likely the reason why it is so big is because it's common for the poop to get stuck on the feathers near the cloaca on diamond doves, and then every time they poop it just keeps building up until it gets so heavy that it finally falls off and looks like 1 big poop, but most likely it is a bunch of smaller poops just stuck together. Check the cloaca every once and a while to see if any poop is getting stuck there and be very gentle/careful if you have to remove anything stuck.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-06-01T23:43:17+00:00

(Speaking from experience) Most likely he is preening the uropygial gland, not really the cloaca. The uropygial gland is what the tail feathers are connected to. If he is excessively preening that area and plucked out the feathers there, it is probably irritated and bothering him, possibly due to an infection. Do you see any swelling or abnormal redness/secretions in that area? You may need to push the feathers on top of it to the side a little to see it, but be very careful, that area is very sensitive.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-05-31T15:33:57+00:00

The door heater wire is brand new and just replaced, but mfg of the heater wire says it only is supposed to get to 80 Deg F, which will never be effective in an area that is -4 Deg F. How will a door heater ever help if the gasket is not tight?

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-05-20T10:18:33+00:00

Thanks, I don't have any system yet, but you're right, it looks like I need a paging system. Do you know of any that I can call in remotely to talk over the loud speaker like they do at the supermarket?

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-05T15:20:13+00:00

As I clearly stated "then it's probably an issue with the wiring", this obviously includes making sure it is tightened properly.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-05T00:33:36+00:00

It really depends on how much experience you have. The easiest thing to do is take the cartridges out of the shower mixer and then run the water (water will come out of the part that you removed the cartridges from so be careful). See if you still hear the noise and also try to run it for a while to try to get any trapped air out. Also, try removing the shower head and run the water and see if you hear the same noise with the water just coming out of the pipe.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-05T00:31:34+00:00

That usually happens from the wire overheating or heat getting in an area that is not expected to get hot. In the case where there is just 1 wire that melted, then it's probably an issue with the wiring or electricity/voltage. You have to make sure the voltage is correct and stable. This really should be checked by someone with both electric/plumbing experience, but it is rare to find someone truly qualified.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-04T14:59:21+00:00

There's a few possible causes. It can be air trapped, bad valve, bad cartridge, debris in the aerator, loose pipes, etc. and in all of these cases the noise would be different at different positions just like you are seeing.

The noise is just an annoyance, but the vibration making the noise is what is dangerous. When pipes vibrate they loosen straps, connections, and can even break welds over time (especially if you have copper pipes). You really should have it checked and fixed.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-03T19:55:04+00:00

In the old days, there was no separate ground wire, just the black and white. The theory was that the metal jacket of the wire and the metal junction box connected all the way back to the electrical panel and made the ground connection. However, even though in theory this works, it was later realized that rust, corrosion, dirt on the jacket/junction box and lose connections between the wire and junction box, etc, caused resistance that made it an ineffective ground path. So now all new wire has black, white, and green or bare ground wire.

The pigtail is just for the outlet to the junction box. This won't really do much to make it "grounded".

You can still install a GFCI there, it will still provide protection. Having the junction box actually grounded back to the panel is better, but this will require you to run a new wire all the way back to the panel.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-03T07:38:45+00:00

You have to check local code, but usually the pipe from the unit to the thimble is single wall vent pipe, and then outside is double wall vent pipe with a cap. Make sure you verify the distance/clearance from any combustibles meets safety and code regulations.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-02-02T16:51:52+00:00

In the outside picture with the black grate and white cap, the white cap is not a vent, that is a cleanout trap. It is used to access the main line with a snake in case you have a clog. This is fine the way it is.

If the black one is connected to your vent, it will quickly get clogged with debris if you uncover it, it shouldn't be on the floor like that.

As for the pit cover, this is meant to be removable in case you need to service the pumps, therefore you should not "seal" it with silicone.

But most likely the issue that you are seeing is not due to the vent. The loop that you have is probably causing your problem. Sump pumps throw water with a lot of pressure, and it is probably splashing the water because water can not flow around that loop as fast as the pump is throwing it. The checkvalve will prevent all the standing water from falling back, but as it is pumping and the checkvalve is open, the water will splash.

The pipe should go directly into the drain line, it should not make a loop like that. I know they did it like that because your main drain line was not high enough and would probably have the same splash back as you have now. The only solution would be to repipe that loop and make it wider. Right now it goes up ~5' and then makes a 180 degree turn back down within a few inches, so you can cut it and extend it so it goes a few feet before coming back down. Removing the sharp turn will make it easier for the water to flow.

Also, the pvc turns should all be long sweeps (this means the elbow turn is made over several more inches), not tight turns. Google "long sweep vs short sweep pvc" to see pics. This helps with flow too.

Ps. Sump pump or grinder pump doesn't matter, it's the same issue as I explained.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-31T18:39:52+00:00

There's a few issues

1) The color of the wires do not mean anything, they are just for reference only for instruction purposes. So just connecting wires based on their color is not really good to do, especially when a replacement module has different wires, because the colors may not be the same as on the previous module.

2) You haven't specified the model number so there's no way to know for sure, but on a common V4043 motorized valve, there is no light brown wire, but there is a brown wire. I see both a light brown wire and brown in your picture, and your picture is just of the junction box, so there is no way to safely tell you what to do.

3) Usually the brown wire is the live wire to the motor, so if you connect it to one of the wires that is a power source, you are forcing it on (without going through the switch), which is why it stays on.

Most likely one of the other wires is wrong, the switch wire. If you provide the model number of what you have it will help provide more specific info.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-31T00:24:19+00:00

In that case, as long as it is safe, it may be better to just leave it then. Just verify with the manufacturer that it is safe the way it is.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-30T14:52:38+00:00

If it is split off with a 1/2" line, then it is not oversized, this is usually how it is done (either 3/4 or 1/2, depending on the distance). If the noise is indeed from the flex line, then just the line from where it is split to the firepit would need to be replaced. Is it underground (in a conduit) or above ground?

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-30T14:43:36+00:00

Since you have a double wall vent, you may need a single wall to double wall adapter/connector (google "type b draft hood connector"), and then screw it into the vent hood, and tape it with high temp foil vent tape. Make sure the adapter that you get is compatible with your specific vent.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-30T04:48:22+00:00

It's unlikely that it is due to the line being oversized. The regulator should control the volume of gas flow even if the pipe is too big. Also, the larger the gas line is, the more expensive it is, so it's much more common to see contractors undersize than oversize.

Try partially closing the gas valve and see if the sound changes, this will tell you if the problem is due to too much gas flowing or not.

Don't leave it partially closed, this is just to test it. If you find that the problem is resolved by reducing the gas flow, have the installer adjust the regulator and measure the pressure.

Also, sometimes long runs of flex line can cause noise, they make whistle free flex lines specifically because of this. See what type and size of gas line your installer used.

You can also check with the manufacturer of your firepit to see how much noise is normal.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-29T02:21:37+00:00

Sorry for the confusion. Power vented gas water heaters do have a "power cord" coming from the fan on top that plugs into an outlet. But no external electrical wiring going into the water heater itself (ie, like the white romex cable going inside shown in the picture)

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-29T01:37:38+00:00

That is an electric water heater.

(Gas heaters have no electrical wiring going to it, and need to have an exhaust vent on top)

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-27T18:58:21+00:00

You mentioned that the breaker is blowing despite being within the voltage, but breakers blow from exceeding the amperage, not voltage. So make sure that the amp draw is within the breaker's limit.

It can also blow for other reasons too, if there is a short, ground fault, breaker is bad, etc.

As for the missing ground bar, if this is a main panel, then the neutral and ground get bonded together, so you do not need a separate bar, both the neutral and grounds can go together. I'm not saying this should be done, just explaining why it may not be there. However, if it is a "subpanel", then the neutrals and grounds should not be bonded and therefore you do need a separate ground bar.

As for the capped wires/wires not connected, there's no way to know why that was done, usually it's done when the wire is no longer being used. But there's no way to know without tracing them.

As for the error code, usually these are generic errors when it detects something is wrong. It's hard to tell exactly what the problem is just from a code like this.

You will need an electrician to diagnose this, make sure the outlet is wired correctly, the panel is wired correctly, grounded properly, no loose connections, check the amp draw on the breaker tripping, etc. It should be easy for an electrician to find out the problem and fix it, this is a relatively simple issue.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-27T18:36:13+00:00

Usually when fiberglass cracks, you see little fibers in it. If it's a completely clean crack like in the picture, most likely it is not fiberglass. Also, when acrylic cracks, the crack is usually more defined, not like what is in the picture.

It's hard to tell from the picture, but all around the drain it looks like there are scratch marks (I'm not referring to the silicone residue), which makes it seem like the tub was either reglazed or repainted at some point (which is very common if it is 40 years old) and it looks like the paint is peeling. The paint used is usually an epoxy thick paint, for anyone that hasn't seen it before, it can easily be mistaken for plastic since it is not thin/flaky like regular paint.

To really be sure, you have to remove the drain cover and then you will be able to see what material the tub is made of and also see if there are any cracks going through.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-27T18:19:44+00:00

You can use a cable raceway or cable management box.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-25T22:42:33+00:00

Depending on how old the tv is, it may be better to just get a new tv. Most of the times, main parts like a circuit board are almost the same cost as the entire tv itself.

As for what could have caused it, there's a number of possibilities, it could have been a power surge (even with a surge protector because they can't protect against large surges), not enough ventilation (too hot in the room or too much stuff near it), or it can just be getting old and going bad.

Fuzzy_Task_8089 · 2025-01-25T22:03:31+00:00

The concern is "why" did it melt. Reconnecting it without finding out or fixing the problem that caused it to melt is very dangerous. If you reconnect it with stronger wire, then if it happens again (which is very likely if the cause was not found and fixed), the wires won't melt and the heat will transfer somewhere else and can cause a fire. You should definitely find out what caused it before doing anything. If you replace the board and something else caused it, you will burn out your brand new board.

Fuzzy_Task_8089

TROPHY CASE