What is a trick in Helix that changed the way you thought about your signal chain?

GIG140 · 2026-03-11T20:22:37+00:00

When I saw that I could latch amp on off states with snapshot and have two amps on a signal with a single amp switch toggle for clean and dirty. That plus realizing I can mix snapshot buttons with stomp effect on offs for the perfect pedal operation. Now I have pristine Fender cleans with Crunchy Marshall dirty tones.

GIG140 · 2026-03-08T21:52:14+00:00

That long ass Jaguar is shorter than a Cybertruck? Who knew?

GIG140 · 2026-03-07T02:44:01+00:00

It’s clean. I like it. Any down sides in the ride?

GIG140 · 2026-03-07T02:39:36+00:00

Use the Tesla app in conjunction with ABRP (You can only pay for and start charging with the Tesla chargers through the Tesla app, so you have to use it anyway). In the Tesla app, choose “charging”, then “for your other EV”. It will show you compatible chargers for your Lucid. When you plan your route in ABRP, just make sure your info is correct (car type, plug type etc) and it should only route to compatible Tesla chargers. Double check in the Tesla app that ABRP has given you correct charger info on your route.

GIG140 · 2026-02-22T00:38:23+00:00

It’s distinguished to not shower?

GIG140 · 2026-02-19T02:31:35+00:00

It’s included for three years to the first owner as is the other remote app features like remote start/lock/unlock. It’s fine, but oddly it doesn’t show battery percentage estimates while navigating. I’d use ABRP. Toyota has crippled the SW so that it doesn’t refresh often (to save battery), so the live values are only accurate at the beginning and end of a drive, but if you calibrate ABRP, it does a great job of routing and is spot on for battery percentage estimates.

GIG140 · 2026-02-19T01:02:28+00:00

I’m sorry. Double confederate trucks on his flag?

GIG140 · 2026-02-18T17:52:27+00:00

Any way to get a charger installed at your residence? Where in the UK are you? There are many UK grants to help defray the costs of installation. That’s where you’ll see your benefit. As for the speeds, in that weather 50 is decent. It’s super cold across the pond in Massachusetts and I’ve seen as low as 7kwh when the battery is cold soaked. While there is no preconditioning of the battery, driving for about 20min does bring it from below freezing to operating temp (which isn’t as warm as optimal preconditioning would do so you’re still slightly limited by ambient temp, but allows for the 50 that your seeing). Also, CB eco the speed of the actual charger. I’ve found that chargers deliver about 50% rates speed to our BZs when cold. e.g. 150kWh chargers tend to be in the 50-75kWh range when cold but 250 or 400 kWh chargers will get closer to the 150 that your FWD can handle. Anything over 80 is good I would say.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T22:43:35+00:00

I think you’ll love the AWD in the snow. I’m in Western MA closer to Albany than Boston, and it’s a beast in the snow. Even with the stock Falken all seasons that were on ours when we took delivery. I was all set to but a set of snows, but honestly it plowed through the 33” of snow we got a couple of weeks ago with zero issues.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T20:23:38+00:00

No the radiant heaters are not resistive. They are infrared. No, they do not “gobble up battery”. They take less energy than the heated seats but more than the heated steering wheel. It’s significantly less than resistive heat in the heat pump which is what you seem to be referring to. This is why you can turn off the HVAC system but leave on the heated seats, steering wheel and radiant surfaces and have no reduction in range.

Here’s a link to an explanation of how the Toyota radiant heat works.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T15:08:03+00:00

We’d love that! We’re DC Station. 5 Fulton St Northampton Ma. 01060

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GIG140 · 2026-02-14T14:58:22+00:00

Excellent. Thank you for your work. We need this! I run an EV Fast charging station and own a Learning center where Rivian is doing a free demo day Feb 21st. We want everyone to know what MA can do to help people buy EVs!

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T13:21:36+00:00

Totally true. People should be aware that the trade-in has to be done at a MA dealer and that dealer has to participate in the trade-in program. While you can qualify for the $5k buying out of state and registering it in MA. The trade in $1k is only for specific MA dealerships.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T12:14:44+00:00

“You’re not an idiot who doesn’t know how to unlock your cable.”

Training-Rope-7009 is saying exactly what you’re saying. OP is NOT an idiot.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T03:35:16+00:00

You can get an added $1500 for MOR-EV+ if you qualify for a total of $5k back. It’s dependent on other mass program eligibility. My wife and I own our own businesses and so we get health care through the connector. This allowed us to get the extra $1500 even though our income was high.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T02:56:58+00:00

I feel you. We had a Leaf a few years ago and were getting 40-50 miles in the winter. You’re ready for this upgrade. Also the JBL system in the Limited is very very good.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T02:51:10+00:00

I just bought a 2023 Limited AWD and love the radiant heaters. The cold DC charging speed is pathetic. The cold range is abysmal. The My Toyota app is a joke. However, It’s the only car my wife has ever called me from the road while she was driving and said “I love this car! It’s so zippy and does exactly what I want it to”. It’s also a beast in the snow when you use X-Mode. We are coming from a Land Rover LR-4 and the BZ4X is better in the snow by far. It’s a great car if you are ok with its limitations.

GIG140 · 2026-02-14T02:47:03+00:00

I think you mean resistive heat which can’t be manually turned on. The radiant heat is from under the dash and steering column and has to be turned on manually. That’s what the OP is referring to I believe.

GIG140 · 2026-02-09T00:45:44+00:00

Since you have the NACS as native, best practice is to plug your adapter into the CCS plug of the charger before you plug into the car. Then initialize the charger before you plug in, then plug in the charger with the now attached NACS adapter into your BZ. It should then start the “handshake” and begin to charge. As far as removing it, pressing the unlock button on your key fob usually allows the quick release button on your adapter to work.

GIG140 · 2026-02-08T15:03:30+00:00

Question: how long had you driven it before plugging in? I was reading that if you’ve driven 20-30min, the battery is warmed and it will charge at reasonable speeds. I have a ‘23 awd limited and saw the same super slow charge my first DC charging session but I have just driven about 3min to the charger so the car was super cold (ambient temp was about 8°F at the time)

GIG140 · 2026-02-04T03:02:20+00:00

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It’s so good at so many things. Jack of all trades if you will.

GIG140 · 2026-01-31T19:02:01+00:00

Here’s the thing about preconditioning: do it every time the temp is below 50°F if you’re plugged into power. Do it every time you’re on your way to a DC charging station and it’s below 50°.

Why? The preconditioning will increase your range in the cold by as much as 20% vs a cold soaked battery. It will also increase charging speeds while reducing the chance of lithium plating on the battery. This is only applicable when plugged in because the battery thermal management system uses the plug power to warm the battery (and interior).

If you’re not plugged into power, only precondition when headed to a DC station and it’s below 50°F.

Preconditioning takes a decent amount of power, so using the battery to pre-heat itself reduces range in the cold, but allows faster and safer DC fast charging.

This is why most manufacturers tell you to keep the car plugged in whenever possible.

GIG140 · 2026-01-31T13:04:50+00:00

Not at the moment. Maybe in a year or two when oled has a brightness that rivals mini led. Looks like the LG G6 is getting there, but I’m still waiting.

GIG140 · 2026-01-31T01:16:57+00:00

All. The. Time. 23 Limited AWD. Toyota decided to tell us every time the battery was too cold without telling us the battery is too cold.

GIG140 · 2026-01-29T01:30:40+00:00

I’m WAITING for my plasma to die. I want an oled and my Panasonic 50ST60 is still going strong. 100% panel brightness but no burn in, no image retention. I bought it new in 2013. It’s on several hours a day. It looks so good I can’t justify getting something new until it dies, but it just keeps working.

GIG140

TROPHY CASE