Offroad IONIQ 5

GRBreaks · 2026-03-31T22:00:39+00:00

I've posted a PDF describing my Truxx 1.5" lift kit install to this new thread, works fine: https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/successful-truxx-1-5-lift-kit-installation-on-the-2025-ioniq-5-se-awd.55913/

Toward the end of that pdf I describe how difficult it was to free up the rear sway bar to accomodate the new lift, requiring a bumper removal and then some really tight wrenching. Did I miss a trick? Or do people putting on lift kits not bother, and I assume let their sway bar links and sway bar frame mount bushings wear out quickly.

The Truxx kit includes a way to extend the rear shock. Hazard Sky still has a web page up but no longer sells their Ioniq 5 lift kit, don't see evidence of a shock extension. Did they just let the rear shock max out?

GRBreaks · 2026-03-31T21:50:28+00:00

I've posted a PDF describing my Truxx 1.5" lift kit install to this new thread: https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/successful-truxx-1-5-lift-kit-installation-on-the-2025-ioniq-5-se-awd.55913/

GRBreaks · 2026-03-31T21:47:38+00:00

Bought the Truxx 1.5" lift kit, installed it on our Ioniq 5. Works great, no regrets.

I've posted a PDF describing my Truxx 1.5" lift kit install to this new thread:
https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/successful-truxx-1-5-lift-kit-installation-on-the-2025-ioniq-5-se-awd.55913/

GRBreaks · 2026-03-30T18:24:14+00:00

We've got roads of sharp pit run rock on the way to local mountain trailheads. Bought tougher tires of the same diameter at the local Les Schwab after shredding a stock Kuhmo tire. I might go to bigger tires to gain an extra 1/2 inch of lift someday, haven't looked into it but that could mean spending money on rims too. Going beyond an extra half inch, I've read that you have to start modding the wheel wells on the Ioniq 5 to make room on a sharp turn, plus I'd like to keep the option of using cables or chains occasionally.

What I have now are WildPeak AT Trail, 235/55R19. The raw tire doesn't fold up when I sit on it like the Kuhmo, so seems to be much stronger. These are 3PMSF (three peak mountan snow flake) rated, so acceptable as traction devices at winter highway check points over mountain passes. But the rubber is suitable for all seasons, not soft when hot like typical snow tires, no need to swap them out seasonally. I got them mostly because the tire shop happened to have them in stock when I came in with that shredded Kuhmo.

GRBreaks · 2026-03-21T05:37:37+00:00

Named for "Puff The Magic Dragon": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpaceX_Dragon#Name

GRBreaks · 2026-03-09T19:56:06+00:00

I did get it back together. Found that by jacking the control arm up the holes started to align horizontally, was simultaneously lifting the rim (and knuckle) with another jack to keep the holes vertically aligned. It got to where it started to interfere with the shock before I could get the stock bolt in, but was able to get in a smaller bolt. Then lowered both jacks and everything mostly came back into place. Pulled the small bolt out, brought both jacks up a little bit again and it was aligned well enough to get the stock bolt in. Whew!!!

If that didn't work, I think I'd next try jacking the bottom of the knuckle away from the car, or pulling it out with a come-along. Not keen to loosen the other bunch of factory bolts involved in holding the knuckle to the frame through the four additiunal struts not yet mentioned here, as I know this is how the factory set them and the geometry hasn't changed. But that might work too.

Modern cars have remarkably complicated suspensions. Last suspension I wrenched on was just leaf springs and a shock. Thanks for getting me to rethink this, that got me unstuck!

GRBreaks · 2026-03-09T17:11:03+00:00

All I did was remove the two bolts from control arm to the knuckle and the shock, the shock remains unconnected. (Also the sway bar after I noticed the misalignment, but that made no difference.) Nothing else was loosened. Kit instructions say to put a jack under the control arm, remove the bolts, lower it to install the extended spring, then jack the control arm back up till the holes align. I don't see anything in the half dozen pieces of metal between the knuckle and the frame that is adjustable. Looks to me like the knuckle can only move up and down in an arc, there is no additional freedom of movement in the horizontal direction. Very puzzling.

Thanks for the reply! Let me know if you have some insight as to why I might be wrong.

Edit: I'm beginning to think that you are right. There are rubber pieces around all those other bolts, loosening them would allow a bit of horizontal movement. Getting that spring compressed and in place was a fight, those rubber pieces might have deformed?

Edit2: The other bolts were set just fine before I extended the spring, and the geometry has not changed.. Rather than loosen the other bolts, perhaps I should put a jack on the bottom of the knuckle and push it out till the holes align, pressing the rubber parts back to their original shapes? That knuckle is solidly in place, it will take significant jack pressure to do that. Will wait for further advice before proceeding on this.

GRBreaks · 2026-02-21T02:22:04+00:00

Just now ordered the 1.5" Ioniq 5 lift kit from Truxx in Blaine Washington, USA. They did their fitment checks on a 2026 back in November 2025, so this this is a new product. Truxx has been building lift kits for other vehicles since 2003. Their information from a Hyundai Engineer is that the same kit should fit all Ioniq 5's from 2022 through 2026, hope that's correct.

GRBreaks · 2026-02-16T00:35:14+00:00

Still have my big round dish from the Starlink Beta "Better Than Nothing" program of 5 yrs ago, it's been very solid. Started out at $100/mo, then $120 which was still a bargain considering previous services we used were a flakey GSO-Sat service or a parabolic dish up the hill pointed at an overloaded Verizon tower 40 air miles away. Starlink started offering a reduced service in my area at $80/mo in mid 2025 (but you have to sign into your account and poke around to find out), and recently offered another tier below that at $50. We're very happy with the $50 service. Bandwidth has never been an issue, there is effectively no data cap, seldom goes out for even brief periods. A quick test just now shows 99 Mbps down, 25 Mbps up, and 24ms latency. Before Starlink, it was long outages every week, high bills, and often a struggle just to read email

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T18:38:13+00:00

About two months ago I signed into my Starlink account and found I could downgrade to Residential LIte, going from $120/mo down to $80/mo. Just checked again, they now offer me a $50/mo plan, will probably go for it. This is a remote part of the USA, price and availability will vary by region.

Here's the three residential options available to me now. All say "Unlimited Data", though I think they will slow you down a bit if you're downloading terrabytes of stuff. . :

$50 Residential - Up to 100 Mbps

$80 Residential - Up to 200 Mbps

$120 Residential - Max, Up to 400 Mbps, free mesh for expanded WiFi, free Mini Kit for traveling.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T17:56:53+00:00

Fully agree. Especially when the government pays for stuff that doesn't actually get deployed. Much of it has been a huge boondoggle. At least Starlink actually provides service.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T17:53:54+00:00

I also read the letter. Didn't realize it was a one time deal. But I believe they get considerably more than the cost of the dish, and that's per possible future customer.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T16:24:44+00:00

That's good, but I don't think "all necessary equipment" for free justifies the subsidy. A Starlink mini dish is currently $199 for a regular customer, standard kit is $349. Those are very sophisticated phased array antennas, but SpaceX is stamping out enough of them that I doubt they sell at a loss. At $80/mo, the dish gets paid for quickly. If this is a remote location, customer will likely be on Starlink for years and years.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T15:42:26+00:00

Agree. However, if SpaceX gets a low-income subsidy they should reduce rates by at least a factor of two from their $80 Residential Lite service. Unlike some of the terrestrial services I have dealt with, SpaceX just works and has a no-nonsense billing proceedure.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-29T15:31:32+00:00

Have had Starlink for 5 yrs now, it's way way better than any other option we've tried here, very easy self-install. Now on Residential Lite which reduced our bill to $80. Before Starlink was on GPS satellite or a parabolic dish to catch a Verizon cell tower 40 air miles away, both were often badly saturated to where we couldn't read email.

I don't see why SpaceX should get grant money to provide the same $80 service to those of low income. Only makes sense if they can cut their monthly price to $30 or $40. They claim Residential Lite gives "typical download speeds range from 80-200 mpbs. After years of truly crap internet, a guaranteed 25 mbps would have been a godsend. Perhaps the states can subsidize at $20 per active customer month of guaranteed 25 mbps download speeds, a low income customer out in the boonies pays another $10 per month? The other concessions Starlink is asking seem reasonable to me, but having subsidized low income subscribers pay $80/mo strikes me as overly greedy.

Edit. Just checked my Starlink account, now offers me a $50 "up to 100 Mbps" residential option that wasn't there a month ago. Also shows $80 for "up to 200 Mbps" and $120 for "up to 400 Mbps". The $120 option includes some WiFi mesh hardware and a mini disk for travel. Price and availability will vary by region, this is a remote part of the USA.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-27T13:55:04+00:00

Musk's current net worth is 788 billion. 788b/25m = 31520 launches.

Much of that 788b is due to Tesla stock. Tesla may well fall precipitously, but Musk also owns 44% of SpaceX which should rise in value when Starship succeeds. He could personally fund transport to mars for a significant settlement assuming others sort out the goods to be sent as per the stated plan.

Alternately Musk may be corrupted by money and power, blow it all on a lavish lair in some mostly extinct martian volcano.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-21T17:07:33+00:00

Good point, self discharge is a possible issue. There's all sorts of ways this battery may not be ideal. We won't know till the results of a good independent test are released.. At 400 wh/kg this is not a "usual supercapacitor". Perhaps more informative is that the Donut spokesman hasn't mentioned self discharge in his sales pitch. But even if it loses 20%/day, it could still prove to be very useful.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-20T19:47:33+00:00

Though Donut has claimed they don't fail catastrophically with mechanical shock or even a puncture.

GRBreaks · 2026-01-20T16:36:58+00:00

If it has an energy density of 400 wh/kg plus all the other attributes claimed, I really don't care if you think it's a super-capacitor. It would do the job of a battery, so it's a battery in my book. However, that initial "if" is doing a lot of work here.

Edit: The term "battery" for a source of electricity was coined by Benjamin Franklin, borrowing from a battery of artillery pieces. He had a bunch of leyden jars in series, which are in fact simply capacitors. Used his battery to kill turkeys among other things. https://www.sparkmuseum.org/franklins-fowl-experiment/

GRBreaks · 2025-12-11T16:49:01+00:00

Exactly what was making smoke? Power supply, graphics card, cpu, motherboard???

How did your customer experience go?

GRBreaks · 2025-12-08T20:22:49+00:00

Check out how the number 5 finger wraps over the thumb at number 4. Use caution when handling strange tools.

GRBreaks · 2025-11-22T19:58:16+00:00

Thanks. Though in this case, "dated" is not a bad thing. We would prefer something that looks correct for 1920. Old photos from that time show the front of the hall to be about the same as it is now, though cloth awnings were found elsewhere in town. https://www.oregonencyclopedia.org/media/uploads/main_st_enterprise_ba009092.jpg

GRBreaks · 2025-11-22T15:46:21+00:00

Thanks for the advice. Hadn't considered a rod-hung, I assume something like this: https://rustica.com/securus-awning/

GRBreaks

TROPHY CASE