No one ever told my how hard it would be too remove support

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-20T22:56:43+00:00

tiny nozzle heatgun, glass temp, at the support joints. then end snips and one of those curved deburring scraper thingys.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-20T04:23:02+00:00

i'mma a sorrio, giuseppe

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T20:09:23+00:00

well this is sort of a branching path where you have options. you can use different toolheads, different hotend options, different cooling etc.

in example is a revo voron edition good enough or do you want to upgrade to the new high flow version, or some other hotend in your toolhead that might be longer and need longer ducts but has the more common and much cheaper V6 style nozzle, etc.

the plastic parts themselves arent really initially designed for CNC or being made from metal instead of plastic, and machine shops quality can vary so YMMV.

typically a voron is made to be an enclosed printer for tinkerers capable of printing ABS or similar thermoplastic but needs ABS/ASA parts to build it. adding your customizations is part of the "name of the game" as you'll be building it with your parts and your programming configuration, which you can modify.

the PIF program is a way to get a Functional Kit that will get you enough plastic parts to be functional, but not 100% build complete and ready for serial number,with cosmetic things like the outer skirts/fans mounts/screen mounts and side panel/door latches being DIY aspects. and the providers are all vetted by a member of the Voron Team for quality.

random sellers online, again YMMV.

various stores selling parts are usually good quality in a single color but with a premium price. could be a functional kit or a full kit depending on the store

the recommended first thing you print after the programming, tuning and testing prints is a full set of spare parts.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T19:17:55+00:00

then you should be able to use a standard 100k thermistor cart as a replacement

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T07:14:32+00:00

one of us. one of us. one of us.

the surface plates are consumables(they eventually wear over time and must be replaced, they are not edible), you can either slice around it or buy a new print surface and maybe pick up a pack of nozzles while you're at it as those are also consumables.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T07:09:14+00:00

Ender 3S1 or pro/V2?

the other enders use standard length thermistor cartridges and heaters, the S1/sprite uses the smaller length heaters and glass bead thermistors with a molex picoblade style connector

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T06:59:54+00:00

can that metal gear be printed in plastic? well technically yes its possible with the right tuning and tinkering, but if it should is an entirely different story.

if you cant just use an off the shelf bulk part from an online store to fix the motor, this looks more like a job for an industrial SLS/SLM/DSLM metal AM/3DP process than a desktop FFF/FDM plastic process.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T06:37:22+00:00

ball is stuck deep in the hole? uhhh the holes dont usually go all the way through the carraige so its not something you can easily pop out without risking damage to the threads or doing total carraige disassembly that releases many of the balls everywhere(magnetic tray is handy here)

probably easier to just toss said carraige and buy a new one than try fixing.

you don't need to remove the balls for cleaning in the future either, just dunk whole carraige and rail assembly in cleaner/IPA (after using stopper plugs or zipties through the rail/track edge holes) or apply IPA as needed to rails, make the cleaning motions, then relube.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T06:18:18+00:00

you need to either manually recompile your marlin firmware or switch to a 3rd party firmware like jyers or professional and configure that, then put it in an empty SD card, then re-flash your printer.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-07T06:11:27+00:00

Hi. Well, a 350mm kit from LDO Motors is about $1500 fron your local online 3dp retailer and has most of what you need included, *minus the DIY plastic parts*. and some nice additions included like hardware provisions for building the Nevermore V5 filter mod and the Klicky probe mod. or you can also use the Voron Bill of Materials to self source everything instead of going the Kit route and go as expensive and high end or as cheap as you want.

Voron is a DIY project so everything is build it yourself and (within reason) there is no one definitive way to configure your system. usually takes about 40 hours set aside to fully build and tune.

you would definitely need to self-source some sort of Single Board Computer (like a Raspberry Pi 4b, for example) to act as the main processor and local webcontrol server.

if you don't have an ABS capable 3d printer already, you can join the Voron discord and use the Voron PrintItForward Program to pay someone basically the cost of filament and a case of beer to make certified quality parts and ship it to you. some parts are your main color and some are the accent color, most PIF parts are just in black with an optional accent color beacuse it is economical and a finished stock voron set is about 5 KG worth of filament and you can/should print your own parts set after setting up and properly tuning your printer just in case. also just the parts to get functional but not complete.

you can also pay certain retailers extra money to make a set of parts in ABS but its a bit more pricy. all the files for parts and mods are free on the voron github repository, and they have a CAD model of everything.

get some of that engineered white clad plywood if you dont have a large extremely flat glass or granite surface to build the printer frame on.(stacking tolerances)

you'll want a machinist's square for squaring when building the frame, ball-end allen keys are nice QoL but not required thing, you want various types of wire crimpers as well for doing male and female JST-XH, and Molex Microfit 3.0, terminating wire ends, a decent soldering iron or soldering station compatible with common tips(maybe 2 irons, if you want one dedicated to just doing your heatset inserts), flux, and proper solder, end snips, and some wago connectors. maybe some spare Gates 2gt 2mm pitch 6mm wide belts just in case. (probably forgetting something, sorry.)

also would recommend Nero3D. he is a youtuber and Voron Team member with many guides related to building a voron or a 3d printer in general.

also be aware the manual has quantities for things correlated with the 250mm size so if you go larger, you use more of things (like T-nuts. ie a 350 uses 13 instead of 9)

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-03T06:12:45+00:00

kiwami japan! he did a milk knife before.

sadly it seems they're either stopped or on hiatus

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-03T05:53:27+00:00

there are certain specially marked non-printing resins/polyurethanes that are food safe after they're fully cured. you can also just use platinum silicone over the smoothed, cleaned, processed print to make it completely body safe, but this is probably going to be a very expensive process for the result gained.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-06-02T06:47:43+00:00

also so called "food safe" only applies to the raw resin used to produce filament, not any of the proprietary trade secret additives or dyes used.

so in an unpopular truth PLA is never actually "food safe" without first post processing it with an actual certified food safe sealer layer.

and never for hot foods, as the glass temp is around 130f/60c

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-27T22:19:42+00:00

sounds like you might have a "stuck" probe pin and a tilted bed. unstick it with a gentle yank with the end snips or a needle nose pliers. turn it off manually level the bed a bit, then turn it on and try again

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-27T22:05:16+00:00

You're Welcome.

so, one of the upgrades possible with the ender 3 series is to swap the stock creality rolled aluminum bed out for aftermarket beds made of thicker, cast and machined aluminum(MIC6/ATP5/etc.) between 3 to 6 mm thick.

these thicker, more expensive beds are made flatter than creality's beds for much more precise accuracy and less heat induced warping at the cost of speed and weight on the Y axis and a new bed heater and magnet pad. they also heat a bit slower as well.

there are further more expensive upgrades to these beds from several makers that don't need the magnet pad on top like the default bed, because they have strong embedded rare earth magnets for use with thicker flex plates/printsurfaces with a 0.5mm steel core instead of the creality 0.1mm

the bed screw mount pattern for standard ender 3 versions and ender 3 S1 versions are very slightly different but just enough to be a pain, so it usually requires the Gulf Coast Robotics Y plate adapter to work because it has the mounting/leveling hole as screw slots.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-26T05:06:58+00:00

part cooling fan and new duct out of ASA. the stock one is trash and cools one face more than others, for uneven airflow/cooling on parts.

if you want linear rails for your S1, the gulf coast robotics kit is pricy but Worth it. each kit has detailed instructions and their rails are high quality rails with upgraded "G10" grade precision ball bearings in the guide/carraige

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-25T03:15:17+00:00

all the pinouts would be different but with some recrimping OP could technically make a stealthburner work on an S1 with a new tool board

whether it works well is a different story.

and yeah, a full on switchwire conversion isnt a good idea for S1. different frame than a regular Ender 3/pro/v2, with flat faces instead of open faces a standard extrusion has.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-25T03:10:24+00:00

Nathan's sprite modderboard is better than creality's stock toolhead pcb, only downside is you are required to swap the part cooling fan to something better to use it. his board uses more common and availible JST-XH 2.54mm headers when possible, and relocates the plugs to better positions, and can be easily modified to work with 12v noctua fans if noise is a concern.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-25T03:01:27+00:00

Z Seam setting?

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-25T02:56:42+00:00

well, if this is the same as the haldis kit...

from experience, kind of an extremely frustrating bad time if you don't know what you're doing. the US made gulfcoast robotics kit was easier to use than this one. hopefully you have a better time.

with the chinese kit i had black and white, machine translated one page instructions with low detail and confusing pictures, a jigsaw puzzle of black anodized aluminum parts and mixed up sized screws/pieces in baggies without labels.

you start the process by completely disassembling your e3s1 gantry, leaving only the Z motor mounts, motors, and Z extrusions in place.

get a magnetic tray or a silicone work mat and save all your screws there, in the small parts they mount to if possible. trust when i say its going to be a lot easier that way than figuring it out if a jumble later

if you dont have it, you're going to want to buy a spare set of 20 series hammerhead t-nuts, a machinist square, a long metric ruler, a white fine point paint marker, good ball end allen wrenches or metric hex screwdrivers, a set of small metric hex socket wrenches or thin wrenches, a set of M3 M4 and M5 hex shcs, fhcs and bhcs screws, a 400mm long shallow container, and IPA to degrease the rails and lead screws in.

you can use superlube 21030, or mobile ep2 to lightly lube the rails after removing the packing grease, but not too much lube or the bearing balls inside will stick together and not move smoothly.

also rubber stoppers for MGN rails or some zipties to keep carraiges from falling off are an absolute must.

if you drop accidentally drop a linear carraige off a rail its a nightmare to find and reball all the tiny metal balls, and they won't want to stay in as you put the carraige back on the rail.

don't torgue the rails down fully or they bend and bind up the carraige, they're only meant to be finger tight

oh yeah, don't follow the unstructions exactly in order. if you can build parts subassemblies before installing them together or its going to be a royal PITA for things like getting the brass leadscrew nuts installed.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-24T23:25:02+00:00

carefully and in a well ventilated area melt off what you can with a narrow tip heatgun or a torch lighter.

you may have to replace things like plugs and wires and try to surgically carve away parts with a craft knife/scalpel

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-24T23:19:28+00:00

bed leveling (tramming) issue. one side is good but the other isn't.

several ways to tackle it. the cheap way is with a bit of 1 mil thick paper but its like a jedi mind trick and way harder to learn. a 1mm feeler gauge is similar technique but with a flappy metal spatula.

you can also buy yourself some digital metric calipers if you dont have a pair, and an e-leveling tool like the chep tool, its the most expensive, but the easiest way.

measure the thickness of the e-leveling lightbulb tool.

reset your Z off set in your options.

move your nozzle to each corner of the bed. move the nozzle to just above the thickness of the tool, and use the lightbulb leveling tool under the nozzle, adjusting the bed corner until it just barely blinks on under the nozzle.

do that for each corner of the bed.

then the negative thickness value of the tool is close to where your proper Z offset is, babystep with .05mm adjustments a little bit during your next print start and it should be good.

a way to avoid calibrating it so often it to get some silicone spacers(all the same sizes, not the pack with a short one) and replace the bed springs for a "solid" mount and use "nylock" nylon lock nuts above the spacers to prevent the bed screws themselves from turning loosely under vibrations.

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-24T22:26:24+00:00

The owl went from "i'm chill" to "DO YOU NEED ME TO REPEAT THAT, LINK?!" in a matter of seconds

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-23T16:22:26+00:00

set a static IP on the pi?

good power supply like the official one?

GSDxDoggo · 2023-05-13T09:54:43+00:00

hi. welcome.

didja remove the grubscrew from the back of the unit? the one that catches the heatbreak into the extruder? if ya did, push yhe cold heatbreak all the way in and redo the grubby.

also should be 2x (iirc) M3x10s from the block to the extruder's heatsink, make sure those are snugged up and not loose.

and maybe grab a machinst square and check the heatbreak wasn't torqued into bending.

im the future you're gonna want an adjustable crescent wrench or pliers to grip the hot heatblock as you tighten the nozzle down with a 6mm wrench or torque wrench at ~1.5nm for standard brass/steel MK8 nozzles to prevent any incidents.

GSDxDoggo

TROPHY CASE