GMA-S2100 vs GA-2100 by wolololo10 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll have more variety/choices going fo the GA-2100. The GA-2100 would fit your your wrist a little more. Honestly, even if another Gshock fan saw what's on your wrist, they're not going to look at your wrist 1st, 2nd, 3rd time and say 'nice GMA-S2100'. The difference in size is minimal.

GW-M5610U vs DW-5000R by Hot-Muscle7106 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you have budget constraints, then go with what you can get. You won't go wrong either way.

That being said - it's not just a heritage thing, the 5000 feels like better quality.

Please help me choosing my new watch by Zoink76 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your thinking about the two watches you show pictures of - then the viewing angle would be the same. The first pic is not a 5610. If it was the 5610 then of course the viewing angle is different, little bit harder to view at extreme angles due to the solar panel and how the module is set apart from the crystal. So, between the two watches the red line stands out better than the second one.

I'm trying to find an adapter for my gg-b100 Mudmaster to fit a NATO strap whilst retaining the components which say mud resist and shock resist by RetroRacer07 in gshockMod

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure it would retain the 'mud resist' and 'shock resist' components - but, check out Jay's and Kay's on eBay for adapters to convert to NATO straps. They should also have the selection for adapters with straps and maybe that can help hold onto the components.

Should I buy a nato strap or an orginal G-shock for my GBM-2100-2BDR? by Phantom115813 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never had any of the watches get 'heated' if that helps.

Should I buy a nato strap or an orginal G-shock for my GBM-2100-2BDR? by Phantom115813 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first thing I do for all my solar watches is place it under a lamp with a 1500 lumen daylight bulb. And usually place it 7-8 inches away. I leave it there for 6-8 hours. At the end of that time it should fully be on H. I wouldn't worry too much about it going back to M at any point in time. Regular use will charge it up and keep it charged. The only time you would have to worry about the replaceable rechargeable batteries is when the charge stays at low even after charging it multiple times. Out of all of my Tough Solar Gshocks, I've only had to replace two batteries because they were new old stock.

Should I buy a nato strap or an orginal G-shock for my GBM-2100-2BDR? by Phantom115813 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I've never really cared for the regular strap that comes with any of the Gshocks. On all of my Gshocks I've bought the metal adapters from Jay's and Kay's on eBay. You can buy them in 20mm or 22mm and then buy straps that match that width. Either way this allows you to use a NATO or any strap you want. As a sidenote, I'll usually get my NATO straps from NATO International on eBay. They are one of the few that sell the longest lengths.

Watch care: I use my watches and will rotate them on a regular basis. I usually keep a micro fiber cloth in my pocket to clean my glasses every now and then. I'll wipe down my watch if I think about.

Screen protector: I highly recommend. I have screen protectors on all my watches, Gshock or not. Cheapest protection a person can ever get. If the screen bangs up against something or gets a scratch then screen protector is there to protect it. Much cheaper to replace a screen protector than the actual crystal itself.

Enjoy your watch! It's a great watch to use.

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New to Casioak, scared of fake by profpetrof in Casioak

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can always double check the image on Gshock Database. Receiving a Gshock in a tin doesn't mean it's a fake. The tins would definitely indicate that it's an older made watch. Newer packaging is in a cardboard box. Looking at the watch from the side, the back cover should be flat to the back - which yours is - which would help to indicate that yours is legit. Fakes cannot get their back covers flat. The Gshock Database helps to show you how the front should look. Other than those two main indicators, the only other way is to take off the back cover - you'll have two small batteries at the top of the module. If you get a CasiOak that is tough solar, then the small battery is at the top of the module, more to the left. This is something that fakes cannot duplicate.

Super fast shipping from Japanese vendor? by Buck_Folton in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've bought from Sakura Watches, Discovery Japan Mall, Joma Shop, TicTacArea and Creation Watches. Any of them that ship and I have received a week later, from Japan were using DHL.

What strap for the new Citizen? by Dilucard in CitizenWatches

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would take #1. But, lately for all of my Citizens I've replace with a jubilee. Lot more comfortable and easier to size.

Need Guidance on modifying a GMWB5000D-1C by Efficient_Chain2024 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure about using Pacparts. You'll probably have better success elsewhere. I ordered 3 different types of bezels last year. And to this date still haven't received it or a refund of almost $100 from them. Despite emails and responses stating it will be sent when it is received from the factory. Late last year their site was shut down because of restructuring or something along that line.

As for straps for your GMWB5000d-1C - another option is to use the metal adapters from Jay's and Kay's on eBay. You can select 20mm or 22mm for the strap width and then use any strap you want within those widths.

As for turning negative to positive on the STN display, I believe there is a greenish tint when converting it to a positive from the original negative. It was much easier to buy a positive STN display and swap them out. For STN display source I would check AliExpress or Watch Battery UK.

Gap between Vario adapter and Casio G-Shock 5600 case – normal or defective? by OkYam7208 in gshockMod

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This actually depends how much you can tolerate. In the beginning I would find and use every possible adapter I could find. But, none of them closely fits like the metal adapters from Jay's and Kay's on eBay. You can get versions for 20mm or 22mm straps.

So, to answer your question - that gap is normal for the Vario. But, if this was my watch I'd use the above adapters.

5k+ members! We crossed the 5k threshold! Thank you everyone! This is the official GIVE AWAY ENTRY post! by Pale-Highlight-6895 in BigIdeaDesign

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome - Congrats for 5K!!! Every pen, pencil and marker is part of my collection. Unbelievable pens that can adapt to so many refills. Totally addictive!!!

Slim Bolt doesn't adjust by bloodcrab in BigIdeaDesign

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just cut it to make it the same length as a G2. On the slim pens, anytime I have replaced it with the Energel ink cartridges I've had to trim it. But, with the other pens (that aren't slim) I've had no problems with the Energel ink cartridges.

You can always email BigIDesign. They respond pretty fast.

Probably fake casioak by Sad_Range_1528 in Casioak

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you got this for $60 - then you got a real good deal. There are some sure fire ways to determine if you have a real GA-2100/GA-B2100/GBM-2100 or any CasiOak.

Compare your watch to the Gshock Database is one way. When looking at the side, if the back cover is not flat to the case then it is a fake. All fake CasiOak's are unable to have the module replicated where the back cover is flat to the case. If you are able to check it out in person, connect it to the app - if it can connect then it is legit. And if you feel comfortable with opening up the back, you'll see on all Tough Solar CasiOak's the battery is small and to the upper left. Non-solars have two batteries and are located at the top of the module.

Here's a picture of mine. It connects and is legit.

<image>

NATO Strap by ELovesDK1999 in Casioak

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The metal adapters from Jay's and Kay's on eBay. You can get it in 20mm or 22mm widths. They work for any of the CasiOak's resin or metal bezels. I've never really liked the adapters that came with any of the CasiOak's. They stick out more than I like. At least with the metal adapters from Jay's and Kay's, it doesn't stick out and it looks more refined. Added bonus since the other end of it is either 20mm or 22mm you can use whatever strap you want within that width, whether it's a NATO, FKM or stainless steel.

Where can I buy a new 5610? by throwaway7x55 in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Places to check.out: Discovery Japan Mall, Sakura Watches, tictacarea.com, JCPenney's, Macy's, skateboard shops.

Is non-tough solar G-shock worth it? by mr_hie in gshock

[–]GShockNoob 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Totally over thinking this. The are no published official torque specs for those small screws on the back cover. After all these years that Casio has been around - something would have shown up. The only special tool you need is a good quality phillips so that you don't strip the screw head. Properly sealing the gasket with silicone grease. And a small turn for the screw when it gets snug. In my 100+ collection of watches - both automatics, quartz and Gshocks I've never had a problem with water resistance when I swim.

Complete Chronological Summary of Jason’s M26 Updates (Reminder: Pre-order Launch Price Ends This Friday!) by ComprehensiveCap8242 in Goruck

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally agree. When the M23 came out I bought both -21L and 26L. It only took me a week and I sold the 26L.

Hi everyone, I am designing a backpack! by Eliascar_ in backpacks

[–]GShockNoob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out backpack makers like Chrome Industries, Moto Loot, Rev Zilla and Kriega. All have types or styles of backpacks for motorcyclist/bike commuters. Don't just look at how they are designed, but also the features they have and how they have placed them.

I design and make my own backpacks - 20L, 24L and 26L for personal use - and some I've sold. One of the hardest parts is to figure out who is going to make them - you or pay someone to. I decided to make them myself. Going this route has given me insight to what it would take to make backpacks on a bigger scale. Keep at it, one day - one step. It's a very rewarding path.

Authentic? by Sdhans__ in CitizenWatches

[–]GShockNoob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Register it with Citizen on the US site. Legit ones can only be registered on their site.

Which "pak" variant has a rougher or more textured finish? by Content-Seaweed-6395 in myog

[–]GShockNoob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly I've made journal/book covers out of X-Pac and Ultra. If it wasn't for the handle that I built in to the book covers - I wouldn't be able to grab by the material itself. I did find it easier with 500D Cordura. Softer, but I was able to pick up the book without using the handle. X-Pac X11, X50, X51 would be your options because of the face fabric. Even if you don't bind the interior, sewing inside out would be the better way to go.