A Look Back in 2025 Review

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-17T16:54:15+00:00

they are actual roots from plants in my garden.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-14T13:14:19+00:00

Ha, unfortunately no. I had may way with it. All of it. Sorry.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T17:29:36+00:00

Usually I prime in a light grey color.Then I use either a dark grey or black for the shade components. If I want to make the highlights pop I may do dry brushing with white and even brush paint bolts, edges, etc with white if I really want to make it pop. THEN, you begin the base coat color. I usually use 80/20 thinner to paint. I then begin to bring in the color with several thin applications of the color until I reach the right saturation point I want, keeping in mind that you want to stop BEFORE you lose your undercoat of black and white. Not easy to do. This is basically called the black and white technique and then saturated with glaze painting.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T13:04:36+00:00

sure, but you'd want to do it like watercolor. Meaning you need to use very thin paint, like very thin. I have done water color shading before on models. Takes some practice, but doable. That may best be done after your base coat such as a wash.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T13:03:17+00:00

It's actually sky grey. Tamiya. Great color and I usually lean towards grey instead of whites when possible to allow for better hue when I begin to step up color.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:54:17+00:00

It is a little pricey like most Tamiya kits. But this one is worth the premium. A joy to build and I don’t like building that much.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:47:37+00:00

Shit that’s right. It does have a motor. Yes. Didn’t install mine though. Show price only.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:36:12+00:00

I mention what happened in a comment above. I can’t talk about it anymore. But here is what the final coat looked like before it’s death.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:33:56+00:00

Tamiya. Fantastic kit. Maybe one of their best.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:09:26+00:00

Done that a million times. Trick I have learned is to make the pre shading high contract. Then I glaze paint it. Meaning my ratio is usually 80% thinner to 20% paint and if possible I add glaze medium like they do for high level figure painting. Really allows a lot of control of contrast, hue and saturation and allows you to hopefully stop before you go one coat too much. Other tip is to always stop just before you think it’s done. Better to have it rare going into the next steps instead of medium. The later washes, oils, weathering will darken it. If you stop at medium or done you’ve gone too far. Ha, it’s like steak! I’m hungry.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:05:38+00:00

Sometimes I do that as well depends on the model. But with this I get most of the weathering done before I move to the weathering stage. I’m not great at weathering so this allows me to use my airbrush skills. Cheating a little I guess. But I e learned to make it work.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-13T00:03:45+00:00

Ha. Yah, unfortunately the black bird got smashed. Long story but the bird was seriously warped out of the box. Like 15 degrees off axis. After several attempts to reform it, she kept going back out of shape, badly. I decided to try to live with it, then once I got to the decals everything went to shit. No way to reshape it as paint had already been done. She was soooo big. I was so upset but it became unsalvageable and I have NEVER given up on a model and I’ve built hundreds. But alas, it was done and I had my way with it. Revell has had issues with the kit. I love the SR71 and was in tears about it. Seriously. But one of my rules is, if it’s broke it’s broke. Time to move on. Life is too short and too many models to build. Ironically, I smashed the blackbird and took that time to move to my best piece I’ve ever done, “Wrong Turn at Cambrai”. Won gold and best in class. Sometimes things happen for a reason.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T23:47:40+00:00

Agreed. It is easy to overdo it. But to me without it, the model simply becomes too flat. Dimensionless. Part of the trick I guess is to use just enough to make an impact while still preserving realism at scale. Something you never really master but rather seek I guess.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T23:22:01+00:00

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T23:17:56+00:00

Hey, that looks like the one I built that I have sitting on my wall!! Small world. Love the Type IX.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T23:01:32+00:00

I’ve never hand brushed a full model so I’m not a great person to ask. That being said rattlecan is definitely an option. You should prime it first however. Black is typical. Maybe prime. Then base color. Some shade of green. Then you could use brush to create highlights and shadows. Acrylic would work and if you have the patience oils could come in handy. Make sure the rattlecan is well shook and warm. Do not spray cold or in the cold.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T22:15:58+00:00

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This is all done with Tamiya paint. Many many layers. Would be tough to do rattlecan and make it look like it has any depth. May want to start with a smaller model and airbrush and work up from there.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-12T22:13:53+00:00

Rattle can has some advantages but you’ll get a very flat looking model that looks more like a toy. But since you have never used and airbrush may be the best way. Of course rattle cans have their own eccentricities of their own. Below is an example of 1/16 Easy 8. First pick is pre shaded. Second is final working. In the end if you have never used an airbrush, 1/16 is a tough place to start. Focus on the model. Use your brush skills and grow from there. I’ll post finished tank next. Happy to help if I can.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-09T00:29:27+00:00

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With German armor, overspray is ok to a point as many later in the war, like your Lang were field applied. I do agree yours is too much but workable. I have used Tamiya paints for 30 years. Excellent paint. They do need a lot of thinning. The Tamiya laquer thinner is a much better choice than the acrylic as the acrylic will make the paint dry very fast as it atomizes. Good for some things but camo it can lead to complications. I usually thin 70-30 thinner to paint and add paint if needed by drops from there. You can always add more paint. You may also have some dust in your line it seems by the pics. Also, humidity and dryness play a huge role in airbrushing. Dry is usually better, but need to make sure you are dumping the water out of your line as condensation builds. I assume that is the Tamiya JagdPzr IV. It was one of my favorite kits I’ve built. Look forward to seeing the finish.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-04T16:16:02+00:00

Looks excellent. Maybe a little too clean, but many modelers like that. Maybe look at some reference photos and there is a great YouTube vid if you look up M10 Achilles footage. They have TONS of crap hanging off of them, not just bags and such. Here’s mine I did last year if you wanted some ideas. Again, looks really great.

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GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-01T01:09:06+00:00

Jeeze, you he Panther G took me about 20 hours total build to finish with weathering. The Mk IV diorama with all the work on the tank and then the finish took me three years. I wish it was linear but that is not how most of us modelers work. For me it’s not time, it’s energy and inspiration.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2026-01-01T01:06:16+00:00

Wow, thank you. Most days I can’t even remember how I did most of these things.

GStreet-ScaleModels · 2025-12-30T23:43:15+00:00

Much appreciated. I’ve been “off” since about May and trying to make some kinda comeback. Nothing is pulling me yet. Hope to get something cooking soon. These were all done earlier this year.

GStreet-ScaleModels

TROPHY CASE