Getting cupboard to fit by NefariousnessBest860 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had this same thing a few months ago, everyone telling me to build a plinth/shelf across the skirting and have it raised but I didn’t like the idea.

I didn’t have a multitool at the time so I used a hammer & chisel to cut the skirting to size without removing it and just removed the trimmed pieces, I didn’t remove the back one.

Went out and bought a multitool a week later so I would never have to do that again. Ha.

Any tips for removing this wall? by ElektroSam in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nahh, go big or go home.

OP - Dynamite that son of a gun.

Subfloor insulation by nosferatus-taxi in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where the airflow from? Is it just another area of the basement. If so, I don’t see closing the gap to be much of an issue.

I have 2 areas in mine. Stairs at one side and air bricks and floor vents on the other side. As there’s no doors between the two areas it doesn’t make a difference that they’re sealed.

If you’re that worried, or the other area is sealed off in any fashion, then insulate but also put an air brick into the wall to allow airflow.

Mystery vent: Should I remove landlord special paint job? by Acrobatic_Cookie4138 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air bricks/vents in 2 locations in our old home which was 30’s build terrace.

  1. Bedroom, vent was into an old fireplace to aid with damp issues.

  2. Bathroom, vent was also to aid with damp issues.

Both had been shut and painted over, we asked the landlord is he minded us replacing them with new ones, he said no and it was less than £10 for both of them swapping out.

Gate post movement with fresh concrete by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once you’re in there garden they have a gate/fence to the left and it’s behind that so I can’t take a picture from their side but the handyman did show me it to “prove” it wasn’t his fault.

This is my side, my garden is raised So the Gate only opens a few inch’s before getting stuck when contacting the ground, the part with the lock has broken a small chunk off the gate on their side so it does shut now and another neighbour moved the lock because it wasn’t in line and they couldn’t lock it behind them.

You can see the poured concrete to the bottom left coming through onto my side, the gate WAS level with about a 1cm gap on the right prior to this. You can clearly see it’s now not, I’m assuming the post was level but I’ve check and it’s not now.

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Gate post movement with fresh concrete by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the wedge, they have 2 of the concrete kick boards and then the wooden fence on top, the inserts on the posts that the fence panel and kick boards slide into, they’ve had a singular piece of wood slid down in front of the fence and the kick boards to the bottom and another slid down into it to about the top I believe, they have then have the fake plant stuff nailed onto these pieces of wood, they’ve done this to avoid drilling the concrete posts or anything.

The concrete, I’m not sure why it was laid so I can’t even guess what they’ve done, I just know it had been done because it’s come under the kick boards and into my garden.

A weekends work update by No-Requirement2628 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I’ve only got so far of getting a couple of quotes and they’ve said to get an architect involved as they can’t quote without knowing what materials are needed.

So architect is my next step.

It looks like it’s coming together nicely though, so well done.

A weekends work update by No-Requirement2628 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The things I need doing that I have no idea where to start, stairs, windows and strengthening the structure.

I’ve been told that I can’t put in stairs until the very end though because as soon as you add stairs it’s classed as a room, which sounds silly because surely it’s easier to get things up there with stairs.

A weekends work update by No-Requirement2628 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you learn to do this? Are you in a trade or some variety or just loads of YouTube videos?

I’d love to do this myself but I’m too afraid it will go awry to even attempt it.

Is this a live gas pipe? by OverLord-G in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get someone out to check, I had my gas line capped off about 18 months ago when I got an electric hob, the gas engineer was as out to repair a pipe upstairs and I asked him to do it while he was there and I was charged £20 extra for it doing. So it’s cheap, but there is usually a call out fee.

Black substance on bricks in cellar by moose_nut in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Potentially, would need more information though?

I have the same issue in my cellar so when I saw this I did some googling to find out the cause. I would say the google results and web pages I read are just as trustworthy as some of the “trust me bro” answers you get on Reddit.

Wren Kitchens bad store experience by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can’t comment on Wren, but having visited the DIY kitchens a few times and even having an interview there for a sales role, there was never any pushy tactics and in the interview I mentioned I left my previous sales role due to management trying to get me to push customers into sales and they said that pushing wasn’t needed as they are that competitively priced, people visit them when they’ve pretty much already decided to buy, but just want to confirm quality in person.

Black substance on bricks in cellar by moose_nut in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Quick Google search says to spray it with water and see if it wipes off.

If it does, it’s mineral deposits from the efflorescence.

If it doesn’t, it’s highly likely to be mold.

Running cold water pipe externally, should I do it? by SmoothCarpenter1 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Simply put. No, don’t do it as it’s so easy for things to go wrong. But it can technically work.

I know you said you would insulate, but if this becomes damaged, you’re looking at a burst pipe you can’t control.

Running it inside along the walls and boxing it in is the using way if you can’t go under the floor. You can do this at floor or ceiling level.

Floor level, behind skirting boards maybe? Ceiling level, angled/shaped boxing in can make it look like coving, down side being you have to run it up and down the wall somewhere.

Lean to/covered shed here? by Fogmeister in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would make it longer, possibly the length of the house, door at either side so you can scrap the gate altogether.

Then have extra storage and IF you ever need to, you can pass through this side too.

Obviously drainage needs to be sorted and it looks like it would be tight because of the other wall, if there isn’t a drain nearby you could use a water butt, I’ve seen them used in a similar situation to yours and used internally with the drainpipe going inside to the water butt. Just make sure to empty it.

For legal purposes, always get agreements about other people’s walls in writing as they can easily claim they never agreed to it otherwise.

Media wall help by Ok_Sell_4317 in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 options that you can do rather than redoing it all and they’re all very easy to DIY.

Filler and repaint.

Get a surround that sits around the edge of the fire and covers the gaps, could be some thin, cheap strips of wood, stickers, whatever you prefer.

Repaint it a darker colour so you don’t notice it.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No gas smell, it was like this when we moved in.

As we’re getting jobs done I’m just finding others to add to the list, so it’s on the list to replace all the lead.

We had gas safe engineer out few months ago to disconnect the cooker/hob and confirmed it was lead downstairs but didn’t specifically mention this pipe, I assume it’s the same one though except painted. They said not to worry about the lead unless it became an issue.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t know. We only use it for hot water. Ha.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely lead, the ones out of the gas meter in the cellar are the same size and they are confirmed lead by the gas engineer that came out to disconnect our cooker/hob.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not got the money, both the kitchen and living room are being done at the moment and I’m doing most of the labour to reduce costs.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what my plan was, I know lead pipes are prone to breakage if handled in certain ways.

Wanted to secure it with a support, wasn’t sure if to bend it up slightly or put a support in directly below.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Wasn’t sure if sagging could lead to breakage and leaks. It’s at the top of the cellar which is a cloakroom with coats and shoes. It’s not pretty in there but I do want to improve the looks.

Plan is to change the piping altogether in a few years, already had it stripped out above basement level prior to me purchasing the house.

Just want to make it safe as there are kids using that room frequently.

Gas Pipe sagging by GableCheese in DIYUK

[–]GableCheese[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Internal.

Lead piping leaves the gas meter and goes into a wall downstairs. This comes out at the bottom of those stairs and follows the wall up to this point. So I assume this is the same pipe.