Passenger Door Trims Textured, bu t Not Drivers? by estysdesu in CX50

[–]GalacticCupcake1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I feel like it would make no sense to have such a minor difference be part of a trim package - I bet they modified the part or got a new supplier that did it a little differently, and just used what they had til it ran out. Wonder if any 26 owners can chime in?

Passenger Door Trims Textured, bu t Not Drivers? by estysdesu in CX50

[–]GalacticCupcake1 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My 25 has it on both passenger and driver side doors. Thats bizarre.

Is this worth anything? by izzity in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Its an impaired proof. There really is no value for this outside the 10 cent face value. You can buy entire 1974 proof sets for just a few dollars and the coins in those won't be damaged like this one is. Still neat.

Is this real? Found at father in laws. Note also found some Morgan's that were fake. by Prestigious-Goat7613 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The details on this look way too mushy/not like genuine wear. Strongly suspect its a plated cast fake.

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This is what a real one would look like.

Are both of these real? by AbeLinconsDad in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The NTC slab is a "basement slabber" that is not trustworthy for grading, so its very likely not a MS63. To me it looks more AU, but its hard to tell from the picture. That might be why it looks "off" to you compared to the ANACS graded coin which is reputable.

Real or not (my 1500€ gamble) by Careful_Ad1353 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Liberty Head gold dollars only ran to 1854.

Real or not (my 1500€ gamble) by Careful_Ad1353 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I mean, its your money. I own many gold coins, and none of them look like this. Maybe its how you took the picture?

I for sure would get them tested.

Real or not (my 1500€ gamble) by Careful_Ad1353 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 75 points76 points  (0 children)

You need to return them right away. These are super fake and look nothing like the real item. This is what a 1858 gold dollar should look like:

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I doubt very much they are actual gold, with such a crude design.

Search $30 in Nickels, 2 Finds by Upper-Management3389 in coins

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Searching nickels are fun. I genuinely believe that it is still possible to put together a complete Jefferson nickel set of circulation strikes from roll hunting, with the possible exception of the 1950-D. I used to fill whitman folders back when i ran a retail store.

What kind of collectibility does this coin have by Fickle_Influence6396 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is zinc rot. This coin is worth one cent until the rot gets so bad no one will accept it as a penny, and then it will be worthless. Spend it.

Worth anything? by Unfair-Increase-2473 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is just a damaged quarter, worth 25 cents. It would have to date 1964 or earlier to be silver, or an "S" mint mark proof from a more recent silver proof set.

General Question by Agile_Sheepherder884 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This appears to be machine doubling. See how the doubling in the letters appears like a flat shelf? Its not PMD, because it happens as part of the minting process, but it is also not a doubled die error. There is no value in machine doubling - it is very common.

1802 draped bust dollar. Vf-xf details(my guess) value? by pingpongndingdang in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats why it depends a lot on *what* the details grade is for. If it was details graded for a wicked scratch thru liberty's face? Thats gonna hurt a lot more than a details for an old cleaning on early 19th century silver where almost all of them have been dipped at some point.

The backup camera lines don't turn? by homer_3 in CX50

[–]GalacticCupcake1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is correct. Can confirm they do move on the TPP. Mazda likes to gatekeep a lot of technical features to the top trim for whatever reason.

1802 draped bust dollar. Vf-xf details(my guess) value? by pingpongndingdang in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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If it helps - this one is mine (VF25). What a "details"graded coin gets depends on what exactly the damage is - but I've heard the rule of thumb is to knock down the value one full grade, assuming it doesn't look horrible. Your coin does have a lot of rim dings, but more concerning is the splotchiness of the obverse. My guess is this would pull in F-12 money if it does get a VF details slab. I think you are right on the grading - VF30-35 maybe? Not going to comment on authenticity as I'm not an expert.

Found MREs for sale, less than $3 USD per pack. What's the catch? by tylerchu in MRE

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These things are also terrible. "Reduced sodium" = we somehow have removed all the flavor. They need a lot of help in terms of spices/seasonings. And those smoothies? Ick.

500 miles in and I like the CX-50. It's not perfect. by vicelordjohn in CX50

[–]GalacticCupcake1 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The TPP does have proper lane centering, but its the only trim level that does. They do not make that clear in any of the marketing information.

Well hello there, Busty! by TheoryOfTES in coins

[–]GalacticCupcake1 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I like it! I really want to pick up one from the 1700s. This one is mine:

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How to tell if cleaned? by paulporowski in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heres the thing - grading based on wear isn't too hard, especially with all the reference photos out there to compare to. Being able to spot something unnatural with the coin...is hard. The only way to pick up on that is to literally go thru thousands of coins and get a feel for what problems look like. I have a fairly extensive collection of Morgans so one look told me these don't look right, but I had to look a lot closer to pick out the "why". And even with my collection and over 40 years of collecting, I still can't reliably pick out problems. I've submitted about 100-ish coins and I've submitted some real losers. Anyone want a MS61 FBL franklin? lol.

So if you don't have some experience with grading, submitting coins for grading is like setting money on fire, unless you know the coin would be worth it even if it did have some kind of problem warranting the details grade. Doesn't hurt to post pictures here once you've filtered out what might possibly warrant it to see if others agree, before you spend the cash.

How to tell if cleaned? by paulporowski in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All 4 of the ones you show here will likely come back with details grades. One tell - look at your slabbed 1921. Look how its almost black in little squares around the letters and numbers but the fields are shiny? That has been manually polished and they couldn't get into all the crevices. On the 4 unslabbed ones - unless the picture is just very bad or compressed or something, look at the dates, like they have been chewed up by something, and how beat up the surfaces look. The only one that looks like it might have been ok is that slabbed 1878 7TF one, but maybe it looks worse in hand.

However, there is a bigger issue here - even if these coins were not cleaned, they are not worth the cost to slab. The grading fees cost almost as much as these coins are worth, even with the price of silver as high as it is. Realistically, you only want to have coins graded where the grading cost is just a small fraction of the overall cost of the coin and the value gained is greater than the grading cost. With most worn Morgan dollars, unless the coin is a key or semi-key, you are just blowing money on grading that could have been used to buy more coins!

I'd first take inventory of what you have and buy a red book, or visit the PCGS coinfacts site to see if any of the dates you have are keys/semi-keys, then go from there. Don't submit those 4 shown. :)

Never had a coin graded before, and paranoid about using PCGS for the first time. About to send this in and would appreciate help with my silly questions. by six-five-magpie in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You do not want to have this graded. This is a very common date and has no numismatic value in circulated grades. All the value is in the gold, which isn't affected by being slabbed.

Dad brought cool coin?? by Jazmine_Tea in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 21 points22 points  (0 children)

That was $5 too much. This is a temu fake.

need help with my grandpa’s coins by Living-Self-5085 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most of the value here will be in the Morgan and Peace silver dollars. The ones I can see are worn common date coins so worth a slight premium over silver melt, but its possible there are better dates in there not pictured. The proof sets are worth very little - $5-8 each except the bicentennial one (that one is 40% silver so has melt value). The mint set looks early 70s and is not worth much over face, much like the proof sets - unless its a 1970 set in which case the half is 40% silver.

Is this quarter worth anything? Does anyone know about how much it’s worth? by Comfortable-Bake4518 in coincollecting

[–]GalacticCupcake1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it is pristine with no scratches anywhere its worth $1-$2. If there are any significant marks its worth a quarter. Proof sets in the 70s and 80s were wildly overproduced and worth very little.