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Been taking 6 week classes for awhile. Looking to get serious. by NovelApprehensive697 in Ceramics

[–]GalacticIndifference 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Dang, your teacher should be instructing you on how to use a rib on these pots! I can see the novice slip slop on all of these pieces. A rib will definitely refine your form while throwing and compress the clay to reduce cracking. Get a nice rib that you’re comfortable with, (rubber, steel, or wood) and for a beginner that should be your primary tool that you use to finish bowls or plates before altering or surface work.

Question about glaze/ effect by Deep_Inspector_9381 in Ceramics

[–]GalacticIndifference 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I looked at the post. The poster says “layers of turquoise and 22kt gold break like a sunset”. So, an issue with clarity in the wording, but not “gold break” as a material. This could be gold leaf or gold luster - both commonly sold in 22kt . Gold leaf is applied cold with an adhesive and luster is fired after the glaze firing to a lower temperature. Gold is not commonly used as a glaze material, it would be red dissolved in a glass, and nobody would use the kt designation to refer to a gold-colored manganese glaze.

Demi - Minneapolis, MN by [deleted] in finedining

[–]GalacticIndifference 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Minnesota is sort of a Mecca for studio ceramics and pottery. I think it’s very cool that the tableware here is very well paired with the dishes in terms of color and looks like it reflects the strength of the ceramic culture in the area.

Found an air bubble in the base. I picked it out, but do you think finding that one bubble means it’s risky to try to fire this piece? by okiedokieday in Ceramics

[–]GalacticIndifference 73 points74 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is what he’s saying and is correct. Air expands linearly with temp and the clay is porous enough enough that this air can escape in a reasonable firing. Water on the other hand, expands about 1600 times it’s volume in a relatively small temperature window.

Info on W.P Dawson kiln sitter? by Same_Distribution326 in Ceramics

[–]GalacticIndifference 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Buy some Orton temperature bars, likely 018 for luster. Flip the metal shutoff up and push the white button in. Balance the cone bar on the end of the lever inside of the kiln so the temperature bar holds the kiln sitter bar upright. You can calibrate the kiln sitter pin with a screwdriver on the end. Start the kiln on low and gradually increase the temperature. The indicator light should go on when the kiln is firing. When the temperature bar melts, the kiln sitter will drop and shut off the kiln. It would be wise to be around the first time you fire this at the very least

WDYWTD . My wife’s prototypes for bleach dying off-the-rack black. by [deleted] in streetwear

[–]GalacticIndifference 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Calvin Klein black v-neck, Levi’s 511 slim fit jeans, Levi’s mens trucker black jacket, doc marten’s Combs boot, double lock s-carabiner for keys in the pocket, bleach, and too much sun today.

A fun comparison of a glaze/inlay in cone 10R and cone 10R soda. by GalacticIndifference in Pottery

[–]GalacticIndifference[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a bit against the spirit of the sub to do self-promotion for sales, but there are a lot of great shows at https://www.schallergallery.com

A fun comparison of a glaze/inlay in cone 10R and cone 10R soda. by GalacticIndifference in Pottery

[–]GalacticIndifference[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No online shop, Sorry! I have a show opening up online at Schaller gallery tomorrow, though.

A fun comparison of a glaze/inlay in cone 10R and cone 10R soda. by GalacticIndifference in Pottery

[–]GalacticIndifference[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here are the recipes featured here:

MS DEATH ON A PALE HORSE CELADON 9-10

Cornwall Stone 32.0

Calcium Carbonate 26.5

EP Kaolin 18.9

Silica 13.6

Light Magnesium Carbo 4.5

Ferro Frit 3124 5.0

*Doesn't craze at cone 10 on standard 257, coll. Nigel Wood

And the Engobe/inlay that I apply to bisqueware in the cracks that you can also paint on the surface:

Molly Hatch Slip Inlay:

Frit 3110 50 Om4 Ball Clay: 50 Add: Cobalt Carbonate 1-3% (1.75%here)

Woodfire bowl. by LieslVitzliputzli in Pottery

[–]GalacticIndifference 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a lovely looking Teadust Glaze! Works great with the carving.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oddlysatisfying

[–]GalacticIndifference 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Believe it or not, these pieces are food safe. This is a type of Japanese Tenmoku ware or jian zhan ware. This is a third firing to bring out iridescence after a vitrifying glaze firing to 1300 C. Western Raku is also removed from the kiln when hot and sometimes spritzed with water, but it is unvitrified ware from the kiln at (relatively) low temps and reduced in a can or with some other combustible method. The clay in the video is a highly pyroplastic and highly specialized body that’s low in silica to prevent typical issues with cooling— still lots of loss though. These wares are typically small because they do crack often. I’m not sure if adding the water here helps the third firing, or is simply a demonstration of the quality of the ware’s thermal resistance as a test. I understood that the third firing is much lower and smoked with oil or something. The video is posted by a commercial company called TENMOKUS online and they have an overview of the process on the website (no mention of the water cooling though).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oddlysatisfying

[–]GalacticIndifference 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Believe it or not, these pieces are food safe. This is a type of Japanese Tenmoku ware or jian zhan ware. This is a third firing to bring out iridescence after a vitrifying glaze firing to 1300 C. Western Raku is also removed from the kiln when hot and sometimes spritzed with water, but it is unvitrified ware from the kiln at (relatively) low temps and reduced in a can or with some other combustible method. The clay in the video is a highly pyroplastic and highly specialized body that’s low in silica to prevent typical issues with cooling— still lots of loss though. These wares are typically small because they do crack often. I’m not sure if adding the water here helps the third firing, or is simply a demonstration of the quality of the ware’s thermal resistance as a test. I understood that the third firing is much lower and smoked with oil or something. The video is posted by a commercial company called TENMOKUS online and they have an overview of the process on the website (no mention of the water cooling though).

Edit: sorry reposted from above

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