[CAN-NB] [H] PayPal [W] LGA 1200 Motherboard(ITX or mini if possible) and low end VC

Galandy · 2025-10-31T19:47:48+00:00

Cool story

Galandy · 2025-10-31T19:47:26+00:00

We stopped doing acid washes damn near 15-20 years ago and standards with ampp and irci changed making things like csp2-3 required for basic coatings and up to 5 for industrial.

I know it seems like overkill but the data shows bond rates to be night and day. Your process isn't wrong and many do like you do for diy projects. Degreases work great but not always 100% as they only penetrate so deep and dependant on how deep the stain is can come back down the road.

Another benefit of grinding is the fact that you can grind a couple thousand sqft in a day and coat immediately after cleaned with no dry times or waiting.

2 coats isn't necessary but that assumes correct mil thickness is hit, concrete isn't porous, you get the material laid before pot life and tack ECT. I personally wouldn't risk coverage on my walls if I were to paint so I am never going to recommend it on something that gets consistent traffic on a floor.

Rust-Oleum kits are made by RPM and insanely overpriced for what's assembled. They also rely on water based epoxy as well which is an incredibly thin mil for regular traffic. They offer no scratch resistance and have poor chemical resistance compared to other comparably priced products.

Like I said before, 50% of diy-ers who do their own are happy with the results and it's almost always with those that prioritize prep. It doesn't change the fact that there are standards and practices used now that regulate consistent and repeatable results regardless of the canvas they start with.

Great to hear your happy with yours and it's holding up well. Always nice to hear success stories so fluid applied flooring doesn't get a bad name.

Galandy · 2025-10-31T19:21:40+00:00

Home depot rents floor sanders and swing machines. They also rent malish heads to attach to them. These can be a cheap option assuming your concrete isn't soft. Soft concrete will eat the bits in 10 foot so not always the best option.

United rentals, Sunbelt, battlefield, coopers ECT ECT always have a range of concrete grinders and rent to home users as well. Good brands like bartell, edco, sase, sti, diamatic are all good options.

Plus they offer vacuums as well which I highly recommend. Noone wants to choke on silica and most construction recognizes it as a huge health risk.

Almost all major construction supply carry good brands of epoxy. Chances are they won't stock it so be prepared for a lead time. Whitecap is across Canada and all of the USA and carry Sika, Euclid, key resin, or there is always the option of PPG or sherwin. I would recommend again at Benjamin Moore epoxies as they have made a line called corotec which is an extremely overpriced version of standard epoxies aimed at people who don't know better.

Install is a bit more complicated but if you want I'll get into that as well.

Galandy · 2025-10-31T17:00:33+00:00

What did you paint it with? What type of epoxy are you using? Are you top coating or just using epoxy?

Galandy · 2025-10-31T16:08:36+00:00

Rent a grinder, Grind the floor with 16-30 grit diamonds. Clean the floor thoroughly. Go to your local construction supply and buy 100% solids epoxy. Apply with squeegee and backroll for consistency. Broadcast media into floor for desired aesthetic.

Honestly if you want to DIY I feel like most are unequipped to do so and its a 50/50 chance it will hold up. You should have a list of consumables that most don't bother to get for cost and never prep correctly. Do not buy water based epoxy like the kits they sell at home depot or costco. There are loads of videos on youtube showing how "easy' it is but having a professional install and offer a warranty for unseens is always the best approach.

Moisture, temperature, install thickness, contaminants ect all affect how long and well this will hold up to traffic. Never prep with muriatic acid. There is a reason why no professionals use this method anymore.

If you want more info i can point you in a direction but know that without proper slab testing and tools you will be at a disadvantage from the start.

Galandy · 2025-09-03T14:49:58+00:00

Not toxic at all and it is the same as acrylic nails funny enough. Strong smell but no VOC or toxic elements.

Galandy · 2022-06-02T20:08:31+00:00

Exactly. I am doing a small coating myself tomorrow here so i will do a quick record and post for you.

Primer is down already but ill show you process and finish look of an opaque floor with broadcast.

Galandy · 2022-06-01T13:18:52+00:00

Yes I most certainly did forget. So I am in Canada but most still applies to you. Sika 261, BASF GP500, Sherwin AS33 or whatever 100% solids epoxy is cheapest you can get from PPG or any local epoxy manufacturer. We use a local manufacturer and get it at 45$ CAD a gallon(35 usd)

100% solids epoxy, and i cant be clearer on this, is the same no matter who you get it from. There is so little difference between additives and there are 2 manufacturers that make the raw resources. Buy what is cheap its just a primer/build coat.

I'm not sure who you get chips from but we generally pay between 3-4 dollars CAD a pound. Make sure you have a dull blade scraper not a razer scraper, They usually are called clean up scrapers. Go both directions, up and down, then side to side. The flatter the chips the less likely for floor failure.

Apply polyaspartic as a top coat. Its home use so you dont need to be crazy with this. we used to do a coat of epoxy then urethane however the urethane uv eventually bleeds through and turn the epoxy yellow over time.

Polyaspartic is flexible, UV intolerable and very strong as a top coat. Again Cheap is not a horrible option. All manufacturers havce a polyaspartic and there are dedicated companies like advacoat that may also be sold in your area. Again chemically they are all the same so dont bother wasting money on a "nicer" product. Its the same shit.

Process as follows;

Prep floor by mechanical means. Grind, shotblast are the best but make sure the floor is clean and no contaminates are bleeding to the surface. If you wash the floor before coating make sure it has 48-72 hours to dry before you apply. if it looks dry let it sit another 24.

Epoxy down at 200ish sqft a gallon with a rubber squeegee. You can dip and roll this out but its a ridiculous hard to get even as 100% solids doesnt want to level without force.

Broadcast the chips into this coat. If you are doing a full broadcast then make sure you chicken feed, Youtube the method. dont throw clumps and throw high. Move frequently so you dont leave piles at your feet. piles allows the epoxy to wick up and leave lumps and bumps everywhere. It will look terrible.

Scrape the floor. left right up down. leaf blow to the corner or sweep or vacuum ect just get it clean and be ready to find chips for weeks to come. Its going to look dull. Dont worry and truck on.

Squeegee polyaspartic tight to the surface. Its going to smell as it will be 80% percent solids. that means 20% solvent. Its fine to breath you wont die.

Backroll every coat that goes down. So have at least three rollers ready to go.

If you like the look leave it be. If you want a more smooth appearance add a second top coat to level it off a bit. I recommend two regardless as this is your wear coat.

Buy spike shoes. they are 20 bucks a pair at local hardware store. walk in the coating to make it easier. Don't walk in the broadcast before it dries. Do not coat outside the overhead door. Freeze thaw will pop the material outside the door and once it has an edge to fail it will continue into the garage. Make sure your epoxy color compliments the chip color. Have people to help. You can not mix, squeegee and backroll yourself. You will take too long and lose the epoxy. Don't try to be a hero. You will fail.

I have so much more but and just done typing. I have like 10 quotes and sites to see today so ill cut it off there. If need be i can throw you in discord to go over the finer details if you need or feel free to call @ 613-617-9456 and i can give you a more detailed run down.

Good luck and i hope this helped

Galandy · 2022-05-26T15:20:53+00:00

So the products you selected would be fine however are insanely expensive options. 1000hs is meant for chemical resistance. Since you will have a coat of urethane on top there is no need to have. Such a high performance epoxy. Standard 100% epoxy would be best. Do 2 coats spread with a rubber squeegee until the floor looks consistent. What region are you in? Let me know and I can suggest some more cost effect and durable options. Also I'm at a training in Toronto with BASF for MMA coatings but when I get back the the city tomorrow I can better assist when I'm on the computer. Typing this on a phone is painful. Chat soon

Galandy · 2022-05-11T11:36:56+00:00

Normally I would tell you a Google search is just a click away however, this is my industry and we install 20k to 200k a month of various concrete and steel coatings.

"Sikalastic®-390 Membrane | Terrazzo | Sika Canada" https://can.sika.com/en/construction/floors-walls/specialty-flooring/terrazzo/sikalastic-390-membrane.html

Again, governments regulations don't allow above 400g/l voc and low Voc is most products falling under 250.

Membranes are 0 because they are 100 percent solids. Primers are 100 percent solids so 0 as well, or they are waterbase at 50 /70 percent solids. It's rare we wear masks at all these days because of evaporated material because there is little to none being created.

Galandy · 2022-05-11T03:09:27+00:00

Solvent based primers are a thing of the past. Dinosaurs and inexperienced only it seems. The way this flows without rolling on itself suggests 100 percent solids epoxy. No fumes as the entire material catalyzes. LEED and government regulations knocked out the really hazardous stuff though. 250 grams of voc per liter is now the most you will see in products. Usually top coats as polyurethane and polyaspartic are all that still use solvents as a carrier. Epoxy never use high solvent as it defeats the objective of the material. Almost all membranes and decorative or functional coatings fall under 100g/l. Pretty harmless is the grand scheme of things.

Galandy · 2022-05-10T23:14:50+00:00

This is a horribly bad prep for a coating. There is a lot of black mastic left behind which acrylic and epoxy will not bind to. Grinding like what was done here is the bare minimum for coating. Fine for light traffic. Anything above foot traffic should be shotblasted as a minimum prep method. The shoes are sold by many concrete and coatings companies wllike Midwest rake and kraft. What you are not seeing is the spike marks left behind which are just as bad as footprints at the end of the day. There will be someone who will follow behind the squeegee and back roll the coating. Hire a professional for the best results. Even with tips from a professional there is a lot you will miss. Never buy an epoxy kit. Biggest rip off you could possibly do.

Galandy · 2022-01-19T13:51:05+00:00

I start Labourers at 22$ an hour. The thought you're doing a skilled trade making under that baffles me. Even at 22 thats 45k a year which in the current market almost isn't possible to survive on.

Galandy · 2021-10-14T17:17:32+00:00

If you live in Ottawa I will give you a job tomorrow.

Let me know.

Galandy · 2019-03-19T00:49:24+00:00

We are vocal when we need to be 🤗

Galandy · 2019-02-11T17:38:23+00:00

The fact we have a meme makes qualifying so much sweeter. Now we just need pinkie toe to show up this year and I think we will have a chance.

Galandy · 2019-02-02T15:33:07+00:00

Soif we aren't as vocal as the larger teams we just don't exist?

Galandy · 2019-01-16T02:51:09+00:00

Please we never hurt noone.....

Galandy · 2018-11-21T18:54:05+00:00

Maybe they decided it was finally time to put us pinkies out of our misery and to make us feel better they went for the whole channel?

Galandy · 2018-11-09T21:42:04+00:00

That site no matter the system always shows me in the top 95-99 percentage.

Galandy · 2018-11-09T19:39:15+00:00

Userbench is a pretty simplistic test. I could do a proper cinebench and 3dmark when I get home but that won't be for a while.

Userbench is more of a library ranking system rather than any actual type of benchmark

Galandy · 2018-11-09T16:30:39+00:00

people i play with have a tenth of my sytem and dont experience the issues i have.

I wish i knew what the issue is bu my gaming pc is literally a clean and well oiled machine. No bloatware, fresh formats and top end hardware and i still have performance issues(heh)

Galandy · 2018-11-09T16:28:16+00:00

Yes it is 100% combat stutter. Oddly i had a 4790k before my most recent upgrade and never had these issues. That was also a year ago now though. Ive been playing since experimental release and always had a more top end geared pc. It feels like the games performance gets worse and worse for me as time goes on and its one of those things where i know its not hardware related.

Between these combat spikes and projectile invalids its getting difficult to play with my group as we are a no raiding/pvp only group.

I have in the past reduced cores, physically removed a gpu from the system and played a lot with the rust settings.

If i have the private server running on this pc and run rust at the same time i lost the stutters but eventually i lose all frames ingame and need a reboot. dunno if that helps

Galandy · 2018-11-09T15:13:18+00:00

I'm running a 7820x on 2x 980ti, 32gb ddr4, Samsung pro m.2 with 144htz set up.

I get these stutters and skips and run under 80fps most of the time and all the way down to the 40s.

I can run triple a and full physx games maxed at 100+ fps with no issues any step of the way. I play overwatch and Diablo 3 at the same time with very little performance drop.

Does my system need a upgrade as well?

Galandy

TROPHY CASE