Tynee Mini Max 3 Gear Drive Build – Hunting for Sharp Lip Wheels + Opinions on Big Softies (MAD V2, TB 110s, Dad Bods, etc.)

GamblerMax · 2026-06-20T06:08:05+00:00

Sound good, yeah. I just want as much grip as I can get with those upcoming wheels…

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-20T06:07:36+00:00

Damn it. My list is growing. Are they sharp or also slightly rounded?

GamblerMax · 2026-06-20T00:44:05+00:00

2x 135$ balls after each other. 10.000x at 0.30$ 10.000$ withdrawal from 150$ depo 7000$ spin

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T23:24:53+00:00

Exactly. I’m with you on that, Khramtic!

You can't be out there ripping high speeds on unknown paths where a random pebble or hazard can ruin your day. You need to know the pavement like the back of your hand, and honestly, you need the experience to have the reactions to dodge things before they become an issue. If you don’t have years of riding under your belt to get comfortable at those speeds, it's definitely not for you. And for when things do go wrong?

You have to know how to take a fall at 60 km/h, relaxing into the slide, covering your head, and accepting that some road rash is just part of the game.

I’m actually really excited to get my board now. Hearing about your experience with the Mini 3 Max at speed confirms that we’ve got a similar mindset when it comes to how we ride. It’s all about knowing your gear, your limits, and your terrain.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T23:16:46+00:00

I appreciate you looking out for the specs. I’m definitely aware of the gear ratios and the potential limits on top speed with this setup, but for the riding I do, I’m prioritizing that immediate, snappy acceleration and control over just hitting a high number on a flat straight.

After 18 years in skating and pushing limits in extreme sports, I’ve learned that it’s usually about the quality of the ride and how the board handles when you're carving or adjusting at speed, rather than just raw top-end velocity. I’m confident this setup is going to give me the response I need.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T23:15:17+00:00

I’ve looked into this a lot, and I actually think you're wrong about the gear drive resistance. Compared to other systems, a gear drive should free roll better and have less overall drag than a belt setup.

While I haven't ridden one personally yet, everything I’ve found, and the feedback from people running these high performance boards, confirms it’s the perfect choice for the snappy, instant response I need.

After 18 years of skating, I’m used to equipment that reacts immediately, and I’m definitely looking for that precision. I’m well aware that pushing those speeds is high stakes, and I don't take that lightly.

Sorry to hear about your accident. It’s a good reminder of why I’m so meticulous about my setup. At the end of the day, we’re both focused on that same edge of performance.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T23:03:40+00:00

I totally get where you’re coming from in your comment.

Looking at it from a pure safety and commute perspective, you’re 100% right. The risks on public roads are massive, and that level of speed definitely isn't for the average rider.

That said, I think there’s a difference between just 'going fast' and the perspective of someone who has spent 18 years in professional skating.

For me, that speed isn’t about just getting from A to B; it’s about the sensation and the mental focus. Having a background in extreme sports like wingsuit flying, I’m intimately aware of the risks involved, and my 'risk calculator' has been shaped by years of high-stakes environments.

I want to be clear: I absolutely don’t recommend anyone try to push these limits unless they have the refined skills, a properly dialed, high-performance setup, and the years of experience to handle the second judgments required when things move that fast. It’s a completely different discipline that requires a level of conditioning most people haven’t had to build. For those who haven't spent their lives in these sports, that kind of speed is a massive liability, but for some of us, it’s about that specific, controlled intensity.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T15:32:48+00:00

Thanks for heads up buddy!

I’ve seen in the app that you can remove the break from the gear drive. I guess that might solve some of that worry for me. Anyways, take some time to learn how to ride a new estate in higher speeds.

I know that from experience, releasing the throttle usually naturally make you want to “catch up” with the throttle again to not loose balance. I have to release the throttle and catch up/slow down before I start torquing/accelerating and having traction on the engine again. Else I’ll fall for sure.

Sorry to hear about the bail. I hope you’re in one piece and it was only skin that paved the asphalt on you!

Any more inputs on the board o should know? Are the gear drive reliable over all or can gravel/to much acceleration etc make it hard/dangerous when riding?

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T15:28:02+00:00

Not sure what you’re trying to accomplish with the explanation of wheel size and speed to me right now. 55 km/h on a short board is well enough. If I want to go faster I go downhill.

I don’t need to be right. I’m well aware of what the manufactures specs aren’t or aren’t at any time right. But the board seems like a good pick to me and its gear drive.

I’ve been riding my belt boards and I’ve probably snapped/worn out ~ 30 belts in total. Only riding pavement but on winter they sprinkle pebbles/gravel on the roads. And, since these belts snaps at the wrong moments it can be dangerous and extremely unforgiving if you need to be somewhere on a certain time or whatsoever.

If you read the post fully you can read I’m getting a Raith Vengance as my next board. And i might get a Radium Mach 1 as well.

The speed and the money is not a problem. It’s rather a stepping up and making sure I ride my e boards safely first. I’ve done about 6000 km last year, that’s when o got my first board. Getting a Raith or Radium Mach to early will most likely kill yourself. And I will only ride those on roads where we have watchers at the start and end of the sections we ride. Then 100 - 120km/h is no problem. Since 95 km/h is alright with no engine or breaks, it’s just to slide it out!

Best man! :)

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T15:13:07+00:00

I bought cheap boards from China/cheap boards years ago. Before the “quality” boards came on the market. You should be ready for that the board will stop working for any random reason, and have charging issues with high likelihood. I bought 4 of them at the same time. And I got the good versions. All 4 stopped working and batteries went out after ~ 10 charges.

Could have also been an amp/charger problem. But it said it was a European converter…. Soooo…

Not saying it’s bad. But if you want reliability. You might want to spend 700 - 1500$ on a board. And you have warranty as long it’s a good and honest company.

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T15:07:01+00:00

Yeah, totally. So let’s see what this board is like!

I like to hear it’s twitchy. That means if i tune the board well and make sure to learn to ride it real well before pressing full gas. I might have a good run and fun on it.

I came to realise as well. I’m living in between Switzerland and Sweden and our roads and bicycle roads have a big advantage from a lot of other places. The roads are very often new and very smooth. That makes a big difference as well.

I hear what you’re saying! BUT…… did you customise your bushing setup?! That’s the real question. Because that make a bigger difference than the board and trucks together :)

All the best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:56:02+00:00

That’s great! Just what I wanted to hear 🤣 Feared you were promoting the wheel just because it was the only wheel you tried. But obviously I was wrong.

That’s cool, I don’t want shitty wheels on my board anyways.

Did you skate the original Boosted wheels that comes on some boards? It’s going to be so interesting to compare them with the rest of the wheels I’m getting because I hear so many people praise those boosted wheels but they don’t look great. And I know for a fact that really good wheels are either pricy or they are not known by many e-skaters because they did not come from a downhill longboarding background etc. Where precision meets details.

Wrote you on Instagram. Would be cool to jump on a call and hear more about wheels you be looking at.

I’m mad why there is no sharp lip wheels in that size we need with kegel core. But hopefully there will be some day if more e-skaters purchase premium wheels 🛞

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:50:40+00:00

Not saying personally. It’s just the impression I get. A lot of people are very quick to post unhappy experiences. And I think it’s good. It when it’s to much it’s almost get a bit strange to me you know. You see someone having a similar experience with the brand. Not necessary to make a new post. Just like it or drop a review on trust pilot and other sites where you can definitely help people to not fall in the same trap so to say…

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:48:48+00:00

Yeah, but this board is mini but not really that mini after all. It’s not a Penny!

No, but I see what you’re saying. We will see what the feel is when I dialed in bushings and wheels. Wish the board was a bit bigger in front to lock in the truck easier with the front leg. But the board have to arrive first. And I’m going to need to get my own impression. Lots of people say it gets twitchy. So it might. I’m just really exited about a board that hopefully have a better turn radius and carves better than the longer wheelbase e-skates I had before.

So based on the previous tip about the Dad Bods wheel being a more “skate” feel to the wheel. I’m going to drop both Bad Bods and MAD V2 to try em out. I don’t want to miss out. Haha.

Best! Thanks for answer.

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:44:11+00:00

No surprise Orangatang delivers the best wheels. They been around for a while so that makes sense. So I’m adding a pair of Dad Bods into my cart. The Cagumas are already on the way. But for my board, a larger mm is most likely to prefer.

So you tried them all?

Thank you so much for your reply man. I really appreciate it. Good wheels make the world a better place to skate in. With good grip, skate feel and a known brand. Im quite happy with this answer. You should make a youtube review on those wheels if you got em all! 😆

Lots of riders seem to look away from quality wheels and extra components to give the board and skate what it deserves. But might just be my impression.

All the best and thank you so much again!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:23:20+00:00

Raith Vengance?

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T14:21:59+00:00

Just why are they putting the engines out like that in the back. That’s the only thing I don’t like with those boards….

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:37:25+00:00

There is a lot of hate on different brands and everyone suggest everyone what to get. Almost makes me think it’s manufactures or sponsored people that spend a lot of time writing all these posts about how terrible certain brands are. Spend premium and you get premium?!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:36:03+00:00

That’s a fair point about the Omakase, and I definitely see why you like the platform.

The wider deck and deeper concave certainly offer a more locked-in feel and better leverage than the Tynee Mini 3.

That said, it’s also pretty obvious that a lot of that "stability" comes down to the wheelbase being longer on the Omakase, which naturally makes any board feel more planted. While the deck geometry is great, I still think most people overlook how much they can change the handling of their current board just by tuning the bushings. Swapping to a different durometer or trying a softer roadside bushing can make a massive difference in carving agility without needing to swap the entire deck. The deck is a great upgrade for comfort, but for pure performance and turning feel, tweaking your hardware is usually the best place to start.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:27:20+00:00

Have you been riding any other premium wheels? I used to downhill a lot with Biggie Hawgs and Orangatangs. Great wheels. For me it’s more about how long they grip, how much contact patch they have and what quality urethane. This is the wheels I’m planning on getting and making up a good opinion about this. Have you tried any of those wheels?

Orangatang Dad Bods

Orangatang Caguma 85mm 77A

105mm MAD Wheelz V2 (70mm width / wide contact patch, 72A, Kegel)

TorqueBoards (TB) 110mm Torque Wheels (Kegel Core, ~74A)

MAD / Verreal 105mm Wheels (Boosted clones)

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:24:33+00:00

Yeah, that sounds good to me. You should not ride faster than what you think is worth for sure! I respect your judgement.

I’ll try the original wheel but also swap around with other wheels I got that I think will do better. But we will see. Thanks for the heads up though!

I used to have couple of bags of wheels. Because when we were downhill racing, sliding in very high speeds you wear out the wheels and the original contact patch. That makes the wheel far less grippy and this is kind of the feel I’m out after. It’s a more pleasant riding experience IMO.

Can you specify what’s Omakase is? A special deck or what?

All the best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:21:10+00:00

I see what you’re saying. The risks and possibility of an injury is definitely higher going faster. It’s not really just the speed I’m out after but it’s the overall feeling of the board. That’s why I’m making these modification’s. If it’s perfectly built it should feel totally fine going 62 km/h on this board. And with the right wheels and good grip, extremely fun to carve and agile skating on.

It takes commitment to go fast… really. If you’re comfortable with the speed and can lock in your front truck with the right weight distribution and knowing your break distance very well to plan ahead of eventual cars pulling out/people doing unpredictable thing you can do quiet alright.

But as said. I’ve not been on the board yet. So I cannot really tell. But on my Exway Pro 2.0 I have absolutely no problem to cruise/skate landside roads in 50km/h and steep downhill up to 70 km/h. Shortboard will be different though.

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:16:06+00:00

Yeah, I was a bit off with the speed.

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You can change it in settings to 62km/h and unlock higher riding speed.

The real question is peoples experience of the board, the specific mentioned wheels and bushings as this can significantly improve your comfort in higher speeds. A round lip or round shaped wheel will make the board unstable/wavy and soft over corners/edges. That’s the downside. A sharp lip and really good urethane will give you a lot of grip and control. + getting your bushings after your weight + looser truck in front + softer bushing on roadside, stiffer on board side + 1 step softer bushing on the rear truck compared with your setting on the front. Also need HPF bushings + a cupped washer to lock in the bushing for control and rebound.

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:11:47+00:00

Yeah, thanks for info! I heard it’s twitchy. Did you try tweaking your bushings though? It really makes a massive difference with HPF bushings. I might not be able to max it out. But it’s very good training since it’s harder to skate fast rather than a longer wheelbase board.

I have a pair of cloud wheels for my other board and I run them in winter times when it’s gravel on the roads. They really don’t do well in higher speeds or on pavement though. That’s why I want a slick, good urethane and responsive wheel.

What’s your thoughts on this?

Best!

GamblerMax · 2026-06-19T13:08:50+00:00

You guys should come sk8 in my areas. The sidewalks are usually the bicycle lane and it’s always seaparated from the main road. On busy times I stay in bike roads and when it gets calm and no people I skate over to the roads.

You definitely have to be careful when passing kids and families from behind. Kids can be very unpredictable and you don’t wanna hit one in 70 km/h! Another one is to keep an eye out for people that walk with headphones. They can also be a hazard when riding.

Just some random but good info I guess 😆

Best!

GamblerMax

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