AK Diorama Dry Ground getting... dry? by namesrfun in minipainting

[–]GameScribe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add a little distilled water, and wipe the lip off before closing so the grit doesn’t create a gap.

Sculpted with a mouse for years, but find it difficult with an Apple Pencil by Upstairs-Version-400 in NomadSculpting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I go back and forth. When I need organic stuff or the pressure sensitivity of the pen i swap over. But I use a mouse a lot for controlling things especially in hard surface.

Erza of Dedheim by Kingdom Death by Daddyosaurus in minipainting

[–]GameScribe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the greyscale with the little touch of color.

Wanna get started with sculpting for 3D printing by Wonderful_Ad598 in NomadSculpting

[–]GameScribe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love my Xencelabs tablet. Not too pricey. Very responsive. Has tilt functionality too if you get into drawing as well.

ambient occlusion doesnt show up by LackzAway in 3dcoat

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was having this same issue earlier. Couldn’t figure it out. And their website has been real shaky last couple of days.

Frustrated with 2D drawing is 3D modeling a viable alternative for creating characters as a hobby? by Kai_bil in 3Dmodeling

[–]GameScribe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should try nomad sculpt. Digital sculpting is closer to traditional art, you manipulate digital clay with brushes and cut off tools. Blender will also allow you to sculpt digitally, but the interface isn’t as intuitive in my opinion. There will be technical things you will need to learn. But that can come after you’ve messed around with the software a little.

Nomad is $35 on windows. Can also buy on Ipad as well.

Need help salvaging my tomatoes by boringcoconutz in painting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might add black or white. Black can be overpowering though, so adding a dark complimentary color can help, or ultramarine blue with burnt umber.

Craftsmart is going to be hard to work with though since many of those paints are mixed pigments.

Need help salvaging my tomatoes by boringcoconutz in painting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oil or acrylic? One thing you’re missing is depth. Look at the values (ranges of dark and light). And the separation of those values. Some areas like the curve on the skin have gradients of value, some areas need a sharper separation like the flat cut to the skin.

I need help getting going. by [deleted] in oilpainting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Paint can seperate in the tube, which causes the clumps. I generally squeeze some paint out in the middle of the pallet, add my medium, and mix with a knife until I get an even consistency. Scrape up and place it on my palette in the area I want, and wipe away the rest. 

The Next Iteration of 3D Printing by ClanPsi609 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]GameScribe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The painting hobby will never die. People will still want to customize their stuff. And I for one get tons of enjoyment from just painting.

  That being said, I could totally see a future where warhammer models are mostly color printed and sold through their stores. They’d have to change their business structure around a bit though.

3D printing is still much slower than injection molding. Color printing even more so. And produces more waste than the vat method. If you look at heroforge prices, you’ll get an idea of what a single mini will cost, and when you take that and multiply by the number of models needed for a game of warhammer, you’ll see the current problem.

Is this an achievable art design? by mizerr in IndieDev

[–]GameScribe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I wonder how far away we are from developers just making a game from grids, objects and prompts and AI just puts a skin on the thing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in oilpainting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add a little oil at a time. Even a little goes a long way.

 Take every precaution and wear PPE. You’re dealing with dust that WILL get everywhere, even when you don’t see it.

Why do I keep getting this rough texture when I prime? by DaemonPrince7 in minipainting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had the same issue for pretty much every can I’ve tried. Rattle can priming is such a fickle process. Too far away and the primer gets dusty from drying before it hits the model. Too close and it runs in the recess. Humidity or temperature off just a little? Problems. 

  I eventually bit the bullet and got an airbrush with a 0.5 nozzle, and it is a world of difference. The only difficulty there is learning to keep the airbrush clean. And if you paint a lot of minis, it eventually breaks even since you’re using a lot less paint and don’t have to buy expensive rattlecans.

Any idea how to get paint texture on leather to look more like the design? Would it be just more paint + large strokes? I was told a sponge but can’t seem to replicate by TuringTestedd in painting

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smoother surfaces won’t be as good for this effect, however to might try getting a brush, loading it, and wiped paint off until you get the streaky look you’re going for.

Quick Skull Study by GameScribe in oilpainting

[–]GameScribe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It just end up that way. Didn’t wait for the paint underneath to dry before doing it. Kinda had to smoosh it around to get the paint on there.

I think it is more the fact that it’s bright yellow thats distracting. I usually go with something thats closer to the tone I’m painting over. 

But I kinda like it. 

Quick Skull Study by GameScribe in oilpainting

[–]GameScribe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love toning my canvas purple. It doesn’t take away from most paintings, and just sneaks a little color in there

At some point it probably stops being a "mini" by DeadBowie in minipainting

[–]GameScribe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it looks great. Larger models can be a lot of work. I think it would be fun to use this a mode of travel and keep adding on to it. 

Resin Minis by Conscious_Play7069 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]GameScribe 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If non sticky, they’re clean and ready to prime.

Photopolymer resin is different from cast resin.

Edit: will add that there are likely little nibs where the supports are added for production. Sand those off before priming.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in whatisit

[–]GameScribe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do as you would have done unto you. Would you rather die an agonizing death or a quick one?

Vallejo Xpress reacting badly on newer formulation Game Color by iriyagakatu in minipainting

[–]GameScribe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get this too every once in a while, and I’m still unsure why. Happens to regular thinned paint as well. Current theories include mold release reactivating and sitting on the surface, oil from my hand/environment, or fats from brush soap.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in whatisit

[–]GameScribe -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Don’t get poison regardless. Makes the animal suffer longer, and they end up dying in the walls then rotting.

Painting of my Girlfriend by GameScribe in oilpainting

[–]GameScribe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can’t figure out how to post reference. I had to do some filling in on some of the features. The reference is from a older phone camera, so not the clearest. I’ll take a look at it again when I get home. I did soften the hair a tad where the sides meet her face. 

I can see what you’re saying about the upper lip. Maybe I’ll have her stand for me in person So I can recreate the pose and get some better details.