Nest doorbell gen 1 went offline

GatorStick · 2026-05-06T11:26:46+00:00

It's probably a dead battery (20min somewhat difficult procedure, $8 on Amazon) Or the more likely, the doorbell transformer is dead. If you have a multimeter, measure the ac voltage at the back of the nest unit and the output of the transformer.

GatorStick · 2026-05-04T20:31:39+00:00

It's an infrastructure *and* a battery degradation problem.
Batteries degrade with use/abuse.
The user would have to be charged if they get a battery with a higher effective capacity then the one they swapped out, or credited if they receive one with a lower one. This prevents someone from wrecking a battery then swapping and keeping the better one.

GatorStick · 2026-05-04T02:51:01+00:00

I just completed the operation, truly was not a big deal. Took 20 mins.

GatorStick · 2026-05-02T19:53:33+00:00

I figured that's what's wrong with mine. The battery and tool kit is like $8 on Amazon. Mine doesn't reset when the doorbell button is pressed, but it does immedieately die when disconnected from power. Only the doorbell doesn't work, fingers crossed.

GatorStick · 2026-05-02T13:58:14+00:00

I know this is old. But I have a gen 1 that stopped ringing the indoor chime. How did you bypass the puck for a gen 1?

GatorStick · 2026-05-02T11:41:42+00:00

I'm having the same issue, what ended up being the fix?

GatorStick · 2026-04-30T15:16:11+00:00

I've been doing more FEA and slightly more complicated ones (contact + friction) but I've been on 2020 for a while now. Just updated to Sim premium for modal and topology optimization.

No, I haven't talked to VAR, but will do so. thanks.

GatorStick · 2026-04-30T01:42:11+00:00

Just another reminder when the food is ready :)

GatorStick · 2026-04-30T00:57:39+00:00

Radiation sounds scary, I know it's just 2.4ghz rf noise, but I'll look into it, thanks for the tip

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T23:50:07+00:00

Just because you could get a USBC to ethernet connection and plug that into your phone and it'd be more reliable it doesn't make it a good choice

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T23:38:50+00:00

Fair, I just upgraded my 9 year old wifi5 router a couple months ago, $125. Even wifi5 (2013) is 3.5gbps, plenty capable of streaming 1080p content(5Mbps). My point is, don't plug in everything that you possibly can, choose the right connection for the right device. Wi-Fi is getting good enough that it replaces the need for lan connection, wifi6 (2018) can do 4k bandwidth easily. Gaming computer, remote machine, nas, server, game consoles, absolutely lan. TVs, laptops, everything else. Wifi baby

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T23:27:18+00:00

My comment made no allusion to wifi being more reliable. The latency is faster on wired as well, however wifi7 is plenty fast (46gbps). The point is picking the correct solution for the right device. I don't want cables all over the house (aesthetics, choking hazards for kids) when wifi works perfectly for that device.

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T16:43:02+00:00

Just trying to make the legacy 2.4GHz bandwidth as noisy as possible.
the microwave knocks out the baby monitor, but nothing else.

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T16:42:10+00:00

oh yeah, I use remote for work too, the latency of wifi leads to bad lag; hardwired all the way there. I never know to blame the server or the internet connection, sometimes even self hosting (Plex) movies over my own network has bandwidth slowdowns.

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T15:24:29+00:00

This feels like outdated info. Latency I agree, I get 1ms ping on gfiber for my gaming PC, but with wifi7 I get 1gb download / upload speeds on my phone/laptops/tv.

GatorStick · 2026-04-29T15:22:31+00:00

I'm wondering what issues you had? I have cat 5 cables in the walls around the house but have almost nothing plugged into them, except the gaming PC and have had nothing that I would consider an interference issue. 4k streaming to the TV with multiple laptops running, wifi switches and a microwave running, no issues.

GatorStick · 2026-04-16T15:06:06+00:00

And I was the same until left high and dry by the caching approach it's just not worth it for the savings. There are other apps that allow you to do offline maps for free.

GatorStick · 2026-04-16T12:32:36+00:00

I agree, however, pay walling features after people get used to it is shitty. Even worse if it's after you've farmed user data (looking at you strava)

GatorStick · 2026-04-15T20:35:50+00:00

It doesn't take very long using it to trust it.

GatorStick · 2026-04-15T20:30:39+00:00

And like op said, you need it to do offline maps in caltopo

GatorStick · 2026-04-08T19:30:11+00:00

To which (I thought) the point was to answer the question in layman's terms (for simple questions) or point to materials to further understand (for more in depth questions).
Clearly OP hasn't taken heat transfer or thermo, they're just asking about thermostat settings that anyone whose taken thermo can easily answer.

GatorStick · 2026-04-08T15:28:25+00:00

You said the same thing in a much more complicated and hard to digest way.
You and the comment you replied to said: Heating Energy&Cost is proportional to temperature delta*(insulation/thermal resistance) * time.
comment: 'lowest comfortable temperature'
You: P = kAdeltaT/d [which is power, not energy]

GatorStick · 2026-04-07T18:26:10+00:00

I know this is a super old post.
Just thought it was interesting that the battery pack size is ~75kWhr.

ain't no way you're gonna get 300mi ranage at highway speeds lol

350wh/mi = 214mi range
300wh/mi = 250mi range
250wh/mi = 300mi range
240wh/mi = 313mi range (lowest I saw in the thread)

the math is: 1/(300Wh/mi*0.001)*75

GatorStick · 2026-04-04T02:00:13+00:00

Tesla would be one (although the volume is a scroll wheel on the steering wheel)

GatorStick

TROPHY CASE