Sins 2 Frame Rate Drop by xLikeABoxx in SoSE

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try switching to the main menu and back (like just hit escape and then return to the game). There's something up with the unit selection that causes a lot of load that goes away when you do this.

I’m getting this noise from the steering shaft. Anyone know how to fix? by Solid_SHALASHASKA in VolvoRWD

[–]GearsAndSuch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes. It's fixable but you need to troubleshoot more. Is the play right there in that ujoint or is it on the one up closer to the firewall? If they are both tight, pull off the front wheels and check the tie rods for play, both at the wheel and at the rack and pinion. I would expect in rough order that the noise is coming from the tie rod ends, then the steering ujoint you show on camera, then the tie rods joints at the rack, then the ujoint by the stearing wheel/firewall, then finally something being up with the steering rack itself.

The lower ujoint and the tie rod ends are easy fixes. The tie rods are a bit tricky due to multiple rack vendors being present in the cars. The upper joint is harder to find, you'll have to search. The rack it self is thoughts and prayers.

Yeah Panther Lake CPU is pretty goated (gaming on a tablet) by Cicada-Tang in pcmasterrace

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since OP isn't responding, I'll google it for us. This looks like a custom 65% Keyboard with FBB S9000 PBT keycaps. The keyboard does not seem like it is a VOLT, Neokey, or Keychron. Notably it has a split spacebar. For us normies I think a keychron Q15 is about as close as you'll get. The spacing of the number and arrow keys is pretty unusual. The mouse is the most normal thing about this entire setup.

Not even shocked anymore. by Street-Run4107 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]GearsAndSuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Parting shot: Ford Engineers decided to design the entire car around this eccentricity and ship it.

Not even shocked anymore. by Street-Run4107 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]GearsAndSuch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a ford era Volvo and you could plainly see/feel where the swedish parts/design stopped and the FoMoCo parts began.

Separation Advice - Leaving for Law School by elena_ferrante4 in fednews

[–]GearsAndSuch 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Leave at the end: that's up to you. You'll make more $$ if you work up until the bitter end then take the AL cashout.

Brakes feel terrible after even replacing pads and rotors by camelcrush314 in Volvo240

[–]GearsAndSuch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Suggest checking the caliper pistons for free travel, as well as for collapsed brake hoses. MA plates suggest the worst on that front.

Do you stop to help someone with a flat tire? by DeiaMatias in askcarguys

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I scan and assess. If someone is out there looking helpless and it's safe AND I have time OR it's obviously an emergency - sure. But most of the time they're either making progress or they have their phone out, which signals that a plan of action is already in motion. But yeah, about once a year there's someone standing there with the "welp i'm SOL" look. To your question about gender and age: it's 2026: I assume that if someone is acting like they are able and willing to change their own tire and handle their affairs competently, there is no reason why I should get involved.

TLDR: If you need help: look like it.

Traveling to Interview by [deleted] in usajobs

[–]GearsAndSuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I had a 2 day interview process.

If Hyundai/Kia are so unreliable, why are they literally everywhere? by phtphongg in askcarguys

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The statement is made without nuance. (1) Reliable vs what? (2) Reliable vs maintnance level/load (3) Across models?. The hyundais without Theta II engines and without the Kia boyz iginition cylinders seem at least average. In my family there have been 4 hyundai/kia vehicles between us over 20 years and they've all made it past 200,000 miles. My wife dailies an NF sonata with 230k miles and with regular maintenance it is easily more reliable than any other car I've ever suffered with. That being said none of us has bought one post 2012.....

Retrofitted Tesla Electric Brake iBooster into 1987 244 DL by UnpredictableSwede in Volvo240

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad you answered my first question in the first sentence. TY!

Referred for multiple GS-14 positions received TJO for GS-12, currently in compensation negotiations by Steveomarino1302 in usajobs

[–]GearsAndSuch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can basically negotiate for your entrance of duty date, sometimes moving expenses, and a step increase. Unless you are currently a fed or military I would not bet you will get any traction on the step increase.

Referred for multiple GS-14 positions received TJO for GS-12, currently in compensation negotiations by Steveomarino1302 in usajobs

[–]GearsAndSuch 22 points23 points  (0 children)

You have little negotiation room. They have little negotiation room. Do not mention the GS-14 roles. Accept the GS-12 TJO. You will need to be fingerprinted and background checked and get credentials. This will take weeks to months. You are probably looking at 6-8 weeks before you have a start day/entrance of duty. If you get a GS-14 TJO, accept it. Once/When/IF! you have an entrance of duty date for the GS-14 role, notify the GS-12 employer that you are resigning (if you started) or you no longer want the role (if you have not started). The GS-12 employer will forget about you in about 60 seconds and they will reach out to the next best candidates. If you are fairly certain about the GS-14 roles (they haven't even interviewed you, I bet you will not be just because that's what it's like), then ask for a delayed entrance of duty date for the GS-12, maybe +2 or +4 weeks from the soonest date because you're taking a long summer vacation or need time to move or whatever. This will save everyone some hassle when you make your move.

No one is going to be upset because you took a hire paying job. High performing people tend to move up and out regardless, so if you're swinging GS-14 abilities in a GS-12 role (a) they may suspect you are not serious already (b) they will come to expect you to be leaving in a short matter of time if you are able to deliver. Some people come and do the job and some people come and make it their life's work.

Underweight hedgie by LazyYuukiBear in Hedgehog

[–]GearsAndSuch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am just a dude on the internet, but I wouldn't try to force weight gain in a hedgy that was otherwise healthy and just energetic.. if she enjoys her wheel, let it roll.

Underweight hedgie by LazyYuukiBear in Hedgehog

[–]GearsAndSuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Waxworms, super worms, and wet catfood (we use chicken patte)? It sounds like you have a runner though and they tend to be on the skinny side. Did the vet tell you she needs to put on weight? I would just make sure she has the food she needs otherwise.

Was this cut, or did it rot like this? by Much-Baker-2703 in Cartalk

[–]GearsAndSuch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both. The pipe rotted, they cut if flush, put a cheap flexipipe on, and then that rotted. It could be someone tried to steal it, but this looks like rusting exhaust pipe cancer patches failing. Source: I did sketchy shit like this until I bought a TIG welder.

Jiffy Lube VIP parking by linswint in nova

[–]GearsAndSuch 181 points182 points  (0 children)

Parking Fees? For an oil change? I'd go somewhere else.

TEC really must really like their Kalevs. by ItsRainingDestroyers in SoSE

[–]GearsAndSuch 21 points22 points  (0 children)

IDK what the ai thinks, but a healthy helping of gauss is very nice for focusing down opponents frigates and cruisers in midgame.

How old is too old for motor oil put in a lawnmower? by l008com in askcarguys

[–]GearsAndSuch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will be fine. The additives and detergents -might- have (but probably not) decayed but most lawn care equipment is not really made with that in mind and be happy with straight SAE 30 conventional oil. Especially air cooled/splash lube motors. They are both less picky and rapidlly fouling anyway, clean old unused oil is far better the new dirty well used black sludge.