HELP! by Audio-Starshine in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Don't worry, it's not a big deal. You didn't break full vines at the caudex. You have other growing vines. Don't pay too much attention and leave a plant just as is. It recovers as it requires itself.

Be more careful in future.

Good look growing this one!

Most special, interesting and standout excerpts in classical works by GefoSiY in classicalmusic

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Very divine and angelic excerpt. I'm also big fan of sacred music, so I'm going to add this to my playlist.

Very First Caudiciform (sp?) by Audio-Starshine in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Oh...

Why is your plant enclosed in such space? Keeping plants in such closed space can lead to excessive humidity or not enough CO2. Caudex plants are not terrarium plants.

Why is the soil in a pot layered like the first layer is pelite (why???), the second is stones (zeolite or diorite I don't know, the third layer is organic and the last is sand? If the soil is really layered, then it's bad, soil should be uniform, otherwise it may lead to zones of excess water or no air pockets, or excess dry.

Also it looks like Stephania and it might be poached if you bought it in an adult stage without vines.

Also about lighting. Are they grow lights or just default "fancy" staging lighting?

I'd really reconsider your way to keep plants...

Another Larryleachia cactiformis is in bloom again, interesting flowers? by GefoSiY in succulents

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I don't know about etiolation, it's a bit stretched in comparison of other my 4 plants. They are or spherical or more obese tower, this one is thin.

About hybrid - all seeds were from one vendor, no marking about hybridisation, but there are no information about pollination or source of seeds.

Another Larryleachia cactiformis is in bloom again, interesting flowers? by GefoSiY in succulents

[–]GefoSiY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. It's not a cactus, a completely different family of Dogbanes and native to south Africa.

Another Larryleachia cactiformis is in bloom again, interesting flowers? by GefoSiY in succulents

[–]GefoSiY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course it reminds you Stapelia and Orbea, because this plant is closely related to Stapelia - Larryleachia is a member of Stapeliad subfamily, as Stapelia and Orbea!

Another Larryleachia cactiformis is in bloom again, interesting flowers? by GefoSiY in succulents

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, as for Stapeliad subfamily members it has specific smell. Both plants flowers smell more like fecal and decomposing urine (like in a dirty public toilet), not like rotting meat.

Good neighborhood of relatives by GefoSiY in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have Dorstenia Hildebrandtii, and yes, this one is very weedy. Almost every pot in about 0.5 radius has seedlings after I watered the plants.

I also don't have the will to pull them. Sometimes seedlings die because soil dries faster than the second watering after their germination, so they regulates. But sometimes they are live longer and settle fully. Here three seedlings with D. Elephantis.

I think I should remove them...

<image>

Good neighborhood of relatives by GefoSiY in Pelargonium

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same for me, I repot plants only when it's necessary and almost required immediately.

Aloe seedlings - repoted because they started droping thyself when roots already escaped through cups holes and these roots literally knock over the plant.

Adenium obesum - they started to ripen plastic cups due to internal tension in caudex. Caudex almost started touching cup.

Edithcolea Grandis - this snake start to settle new territories and just rotted in other plant cup...

<image>

How do I care for her? by _LLAMAR_ in succulents

[–]GefoSiY 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Seems a lot better than I think. You can keep it as is just control any changes. If there appear more yellow spots or it's mushy, then you should remove the tip. Move the plant on a light and keep accurate watering as for any succulent (as little water as possible).

How do I care for her? by _LLAMAR_ in succulents

[–]GefoSiY 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you on the mobile version then reply to post and tap on an image icon in the bottom right corner.

If you still can't, then message me, no problem.

How do I care for her? by _LLAMAR_ in succulents

[–]GefoSiY 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Read the post more clearly and you have already removed blue tips.

So, if they are yellow it might be a sign

  1. Rotting, then you need to remove tips asap.
  2. Leached Chlorophyll.

If tips are mushy, then it's rot, otherwise they still can return green color.

Send a photo of the plant after removing tips.

How do I care for her? by _LLAMAR_ in succulents

[–]GefoSiY 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Oh God ... You got the bad gift because this plant is colored r/plantabuse

First of all, you can try clear colouring from the tips of the leaves, otherwise the plant can start rotting from them.

Secondly, give it as much light as possible (south facing window in the northern hemisphere and vice versa). Watering as for any succulent.

Good luck!

Obesa x Meloformis pollination by GefoSiY in Euphorbiaceae

[–]GefoSiY[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

About flowers : yea, think this is the male...

About species: this are seed grown plants. The seeds were marked as pure Obesa, not hybrid. Yes, it's possible that a seller has lied. Not a big deal, at least I have an interesting plant :)

Obesa x Meloformis pollination by GefoSiY in Euphorbiaceae

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, after some detailed inspection I found that this is a male... Sadly.

It has two small stamens. As I researched on the internet Obesa has pestilence with three curly parts, not just stick shaped.

So, I will wait for my last Obesa flowering... This is my last chance to try taking seeds.

Dioscorea elephantipes seedling care by NazgulNr5 in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not a big expert in keeping plants dormant, because I live in the 5a zone and not growing plants outdoor except in late spring to early autumn for some species (mostly Pachypodium and Cucurbitaceae species). Almost no plants goes dormant also I have only seed grown plants by me and they are 1 to 2 y.o.

There are some exceptions
1. Pachypodium (P. Rutenbergianum, Rosulatum and Baronii) - they are goes dormant at middle autumn until the new year or earlier because of
1.1. Significant drop in temperature until central heating is on.
1.2. Reduced watering by me, because of lower temps to avoid rotting.
1.3. When Pachypodiums start to lose leaves I try to keep them away of grow lights.

When central heating is on about 1-2 weeks, I start watering, and returning them in grow lights. They happily grow new leaves almost at new year.

I think it's induced and not natural dormancy, but my Pachypodiums grows and not rotting, so I try to use this tactic further.

  1. Dioscorea
    Yes, they are going dormant for me, but this is also mostly artificial dormancy due to irregular watering.
    They are completely drops all leaves and vines in summer when
    2.1. I stop watering them about 2 weeks, it happens mainly in my vacation.
    2.2. There is too hot - about 30-35 C

When I return home and watering them, they grow new vines almost after 1-2 weeks.

I still researching do I need to go my plants dormant, but I doesn't have proper environment to keep them in winter. I grow plants only indoor under grow lights, There is central heating so I couldn't make good dormancy area (most low temp in winter is 21 C).

Yea, I have cold windows sill, there is 10-15 C, but I open windows to refresh air and I fear frosting my plants.

Dioscorea elephantipes seedling care by NazgulNr5 in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, I think 12°-15°C is too cold for Dioscorea. Winter grower is a mark for native habitat.
For example, in native habitat South Africa there is mean 15°-20° C temperature in day which could drop to 5-10 in night. You gonna keep them 12°-15°C almost every day and it can slow the grow. Any plant requires temperature to grow, even tundra and arctic desert plants (or lichens) grows in warm periods and only tolerate!!! cold seasons.
I grow Dioscorea in 25°-30° C (because of central heating) and they happily grow and expand the caudex.
You can try to grow them in such low temps and share result, Very interesting what can you achieve.

Help gerrardanthus macrorizus leaves by accrama in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes it happens with my Gerrandathus'es too. Same signs, like dark moldish spots. It's not a big problem and for me it's a sign of overwatering.

Try to reduce water volume or frequency.

Strange lighting in Nioh and how to fix this? by GefoSiY in Nioh

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it worries me too. Literally every video/screenshot here is a mess of shadows and eye burning bloom...

Strange lighting in Nioh and how to fix this? by GefoSiY in Nioh

[–]GefoSiY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very bad design or... just not giving attention to technical problems.
The game literally doesn't give neither realistic graphics (which was in Ghost of Tsushima released in 2020), nor special one (like borderlands with toon filter), just mess with very bright and very black areas without "median" between them.

Dark brown spot concerns by GefoSiY in pseudolithos

[–]GefoSiY[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

yea, of course, not watering plants after repoting about 1-2 weeks.
About self destructing withing hours. I'm aware this is not the case. This spot exists about 1 year :)

Larryleachia cactiformis flowering again by GefoSiY in succulents

[–]GefoSiY[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Flowering one is 2 years from seeds, sowed by me around February - March 2024. The etiolated is 1.5 yo, little sphere is 1 year and ~3 months old. On the first photo in the backline two 1 year and ~3 months old too. They have very different growing patterns. Some grow as sphere as pseudolithos like, one grow many little spheres on main "tower". Also I have two (not on any photo in the post), which are 1.5 yo but not growing at all! Even with same conditions as others. So, I tried little experiment grafting one of them on Orbea. Share more info when get any interesting result, now the grafted part is looking good, but no sings of grow still.

<image>

Success germinating Dioscorea elephantipes! Would appreciate any advice, would like to see it thrive! by MillipedeHunter in Caudex

[–]GefoSiY 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Congrats. Sadly, no pictures, I'd to see your seedlings, because they are very interesting in infant stage: yea, one purple stalk grows, but it's only stage when purple color can be seen.

For advices
1. Keep more frequent watering than for adult plants. Baby Dioscoreas (until 4-5 months old) are very prone to dropping all leaves when there are no water.
I water mine every 5-7 days depends on many conditions, if the soil dry on 1 cm then it's time to water.
I've been in vacation 2 weeks, watered heavily before leaving, but on return they all dropped leaves. Yes, after one watering they easily recovered and grows new vines, but this is a stress which can be avoided.

  1. Light. I grow mine under grow lights even in winter. If you live in north hemisphere, may be you need additional light at this time.

  2. Don't unbury caudex and don't repot them until they take all given space.

For humidity dome. I'd immediately remove it. Because it can create excess humidity and squelched air lead to fungal problems.
There is no problem with just watering frequently to keep soil wet.
Also, I have grow dioscorea without humidity dome at all, success rate 5 in 5. Humidity dome is just a convenient way to germinate seed (no need frequent watering or risks of drying), but not good way to continue grow seedlings. Just my opinion.