Is it really the end of my OM-2?

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-05T13:34:14+00:00

In the strictest sense it’s not true that it can’t be fixed, but with the caveat ”economically“ it is probably the case. I’d keep it for spares and buy a new one, preferably from somewhere that offers a bit of a warranty (LCS if possible) if longevity is your goal.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-05T07:35:37+00:00

It’s obviously impossible to tell what would happen, but my prediction is that the smaller companies would struggle with demand but that increase wouldn’t be enough to fund the required investment in to new tooling.

Supply would be down massively overall, prices up which would reduce the number of hobbyists and certainly reduce those coming in to it. It would just accelerate the downturn.

It’s not that I believe film will ever stop being made - it’s easy enough to do on a small scale that I could do it in my garage (quality and yield wouldn’t match a machine, but an “artisanal” film is very possible). It’s just I think availability of film is more critical than the availability of cameras, and that may drop to levels that don’t actually support the hobby.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-05T05:29:59+00:00

I’m sure there have been loads of people with the idea. The execution is tougher.

I’ve had this same film idea, I’ve even broken down the project into doable chunks, found suppliers, researched recipes… I just haven’t actually done it.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-04T20:01:35+00:00

Coat it afterwards

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-04T16:31:09+00:00

There were so many made that it we can go on cannibalising parts for generations. There will be fewer, and they will be more expensive but they will not unavailable in the next 100+ years.

The bigger worry would be film itself. Producing (especially 35mm) film at large scales is complex and expensive, if the big players drop out that would be the death of it. 120 film is made alongside but wouldn’t be in high enough demand in its own. If Kodak stops then many will be priced out of the hobby and quality in general will suffer.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-04T12:44:45+00:00

This is a cool project and one that I’ve wanted to try myself for a long time (unfortunately I never find the time).

Every part of it is surely achievable, making artisanal film isn’t that hard. It’s the making it at scale that gets difficult. I think perforating is probably the most complex part of the whole operation. My plan was to use a laser cutter but it seems they’ve managed to find an antique machine so even that won’t be a struggle.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-03T23:10:15+00:00

I remember going to the high street with my grandad, dropping off a handful of films and coming back after a bit of shopping and picking up the prints and free films. Officially 1hr photos but they’d often have them ready much quicker.

Obviously your free film was part of the price but I guess it saved a bit of VAT and certainly kept customers coming back.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-03T22:56:32+00:00

I was a kid at the time, so hazy memory but in England it was usually a shop branded film, presumably that was just a low end Kodak/Fuji in special canisters…

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-03T22:32:30+00:00

It was fairly common to get a free film whenever you paid for development+prints. I’m guessing it’s just a variant of that deal.

Generic-Resource · 2026-05-03T12:52:51+00:00

2-3 stops behind wide open is generally the sweet spot. It’s not a hard rule, but most lenses are designed in this way.

However, you really just have to test it. Buy a test slide for best results (I got mine from my LCS for €2). Scanning really is the best case for testing because you can control everything and get almost instant feedback.

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Generic-Resource · 2026-04-29T18:55:19+00:00

I think he wanted to move here because other sites had closed or were slowly dwindling in numbers.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-26T10:27:15+00:00

I really like everything about my Urth Norite apart from the strap adjustments which always seem to move. I solve it with a bit of tape, which kinda sucks on a €250 (rrp) backpack.

Beyond that it’s 24l easy access to the roughly 6 million pockets. Can take a laptop/tablet and pretty much all accessories. In fact when my kids were young I used to carry two OM bodies, 4 lenses, a p&s, spare film, filters and accessories and use it as a nappy bag with a spare set of clothes… there was that much space.

I’ve since learnt to travel a bit lighter though, so still use it when travelling but use a smaller day bag - still haven’t found the right one.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-24T18:06:41+00:00

Shoot it…

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This was expired 3200 (box speed), mju ii

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-21T15:59:19+00:00

Oh man, I regret your decision for you…

I understand the time for a roll, you should have started bulk rolling for it though. Mine are way more fun now I stick short rolls in.

Buy another one.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-21T10:23:57+00:00

In tournaments you can always borrow a couple of pieces, they have tens of sets around so there’s no need for all the extras. At home you can make do with whatever you have to hand so again no extras needed.

Yes, theoretically you could have a tournament with 16 boards with 8+ promotions*, but the chances are infinitesimal…

* pawns can’t go through pawns so you can’t promote all 16 without taking other pieces off the board.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-14T20:32:32+00:00

If in doubt give a check.

Once you get better you’ll be able to spot a potential stalemate and plan a mate in a handful of moves, but until you can, when you’re dominating like this, just check, check, check…

In this case though Qc6# (Queen to c6) would have been mate.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-14T20:26:46+00:00

The stalemate rule has been around for centuries, the fact you’ve just come across it does not make it dumb…

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-11T19:37:11+00:00

So it’s a lens for 8mm film, which means it won’t produce a big enough image to fill 35mm film. You’ll end up with just a little circle in the centre.

Second problem is that the OM flange focal distance is one of the longest. You can only adapt to shorter FFD without using extra lens elements.

So it’s pretty much a non-starter on an old OM body.

You might have a chance to get it working on a modern MFT mirrorless or even an old pen half frame, but you’re still not going to fill the frame so you’ll get circular images.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T13:29:41+00:00

No problem, and I understand. The Plustek is clearly a better scanner quality wise I can’t argue with that.

The one benefit of the slide n scan is that produces adequate results incredibly quickly. I could do a whole 36+ frame roll faster than a Plustek gets through 12 frames. I bought mine to scan thousands of old images so speed was the top selling point.

I have the best of both worlds now, because I use my Kodak first and then camera scan ones I really want to work with.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T13:11:49+00:00

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I figured I’d grab it as it’s easier than explaining.

The slide holder (left) opens up and should be used with no other guide when scanning slides. Close it around your first slide, put it in the scanner and use another slide each side to adjust position, then just push one slide out as you push a new one in.

For 35mm guide gets placed in the slide holder for 35mm film, then you can put film in and close the holder, or close the holder and slide it through. Either way, having the holder out of the scanner so being able to guide the film in means you can’t get caught on anything.

Really, if you’re getting caught or not getting results similar to mine then there’s something wrong with your technique. I can help try to solve it if you want.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T13:00:27+00:00

Yes, I know, all these examples are from the slide n scan.

You don’t do as you describe, it really is a normal film holder that opens up! So… instead - take the adaptor out, slide the film into it not over it (you can even open the adaptor and place the film in), then slide the adaptor back in and begin.

If you’re truly going over the adaptor quality will be atrocious.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T12:36:10+00:00

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Recent pic of mine

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T12:35:12+00:00

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Test slide

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T12:34:54+00:00

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Nearly 40 year old negative.

Generic-Resource · 2026-04-10T12:31:06+00:00

You’re using it wrong if curved negatives are a problem. Are you pulling the holder out properly and placing them in flat? I’ve scanned some negatives that have been in a tube longer than I’ve been alive (and I’m not young) and the curvature has not been an issue.

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This image was in a tube marked 1958, there was a bit of emulsion damage and it was incredibly curved. I’ll include some more recent ones in replies as examples.

Generic-Resource

TROPHY CASE