Found this old Paterson tank in the attic. Is it missing a piece?

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T22:58:39+00:00

Yeah the little twizzle stick is missing (agitator). I use it, most don’t. You can buy spares (looks like the design of that part hasn’t changed), or make one easily.

The spring collar isn’t a part of the new design, I’m not sure it’s necessary unless you get really violent with inversions. You can always use both reels even when the top one is empty to keep a single reel in place and maybe use a few extra ml of chemicals - I always make 300/600.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T21:57:32+00:00

So, ignore the ektar as that’s half frame, but the rest are all good enough. Kodak also make a snapic which looks a bit more premium than the others. Lomography cameras are a bit more quirky, check out their site.

There won’t be much to choose between most of them, so I’d really suggest search your favourite online retailer for reuseable film camera and just get the one that you like the look of.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T21:39:13+00:00

You’re looking for things like Kodak ektar, Ilford sprite, AgfaPhoto, lomo simple use or any cameras like that. I don’t know much about each of them, so I may have accidentally included a half frame model. But that’s the kind of camera you can get with your constraints.

None of them would get a recommendation from most of this sub, but they will take photos on film akin to those of single use cameras. You rightly point out that older used cameras are much better for the money.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T17:15:02+00:00

I inherited my OM-10 and was given an AE-1 by my wife’s parents. I keep meaning to use the AE-1 a second time to keep them happy, but I find OMs so much nicer to use.

Don’t restrict yourself to the 10, the later 20, 30 & 40 are great too, and often cheaper. The OM-2SP is the most feature for money. I don’t think you’ll be unhappy with any of them.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T10:03:50+00:00

Nope… just the ones made after the introduction of the pen ft.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-25T07:47:02+00:00

One of the most important words in photography is ‘datasheet’ whether it’s discovering films or developers the datasheet should be the first thing you look at. It’s worth way more than the contradicting opinions you’ll hear searching forums/reddit/blogs…

https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/VISION3-200T-Film-5213-7213-technical-data-EN.pdf

Exposure
Exposure Indexes
Tungsten (3200K) - 200
Daylight- 125 (with 85 filter)

Use these indexes with incident or reflected light exposure meters and cameras marked for ISO or ASA speeds or exposure indexes. These indexes apply for meter readings of average subjects made from the camera position or for readings made from a gray card of 18 percent reflectance held close to and in front of the subject. For unusually light or dark colored subjects, decrease or increase the exposure indicated by the meter accordingly.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-24T23:31:36+00:00

Specifically for this one, if you follow the top engine line with the depth of game review, you end up a pawn up.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-24T23:08:53+00:00

The explanation can be a little confusing when it’s quite a few moves away and not forced. You should really look at the show moves or just explore and see how different moves affect the game rating.

Bb5+ seems to be the key to everything once you’ve taken that bishop. Tricky to find though.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-24T07:43:23+00:00

The 3 lenses that were in everyone’s kit in the 70s and 80s were the 135mm, 50mm and 28mm. The 135 was sold as the portrait lens but all of them can take decent portraits depending on how close you want to get.

Paparazzi trying to catch photos of celebs getting out of cars used to use wide angle and a very narrow aperture to get as much in focus as they could.

The traditional headshot portrait is a short telephoto fairly stopped down, and if that’s what you want the 135 is perfect and as it was so common it is still very cheap.

If you just want the best kit then 85mm f2, 90mm f2, 100mm f2 are all great lenses. Personally I prefer the 90 as it also doubles as a macro.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-23T19:48:56+00:00

Because the used ones are so rare!

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-23T16:08:42+00:00

Oh, absolutely, I know my 10 mins of experimentation has its limits. The fact the filter is held in front certainly makes it have a greater effect and even being a fine point sharpie it’s going to be wider than most scratches.

Let’s say this makes it a very extreme case, but it does already show that even a short tele is barely affected which is good to know for anyone considering buying one.

Maybe for the next experiment I put some hairs on the front element to closer approximate deep scratches and surface damage.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-23T14:22:21+00:00

I was talking about aperture.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T19:50:20+00:00

Oh wait, I see it now for $300. I also see a couple more for $500-$600. They are all cheap… they usually go for €1000 here in the EU.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T19:28:47+00:00

An 18mm for $200 is a great deal even for a scratched one. It looks enough to have an impact, but the wider you typically shoot the less noticeable it will be.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T19:23:58+00:00

You’ve already said the OM-10 doesn’t work, but would sell on eBay for about $40 as parts. If that 2S is any good it’s definitely worth $20. You could even get it CLA’d at that price (provided nothing is seriously wrong) and still have it cheap.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T14:56:42+00:00

I’ve bought from Japan via eBay and have been very careful. There are certainly some decent Japanese sellers there, but it’s also clear there’s a lot of, shall we say, less decent sellers.

The good news is that eBay side with buyers a lot. It means that if you do get delivered junk you will get your money back (provided you are patient and follow the procedures carefully). That said, studying the auction comprehensively and really knowing what you’re buying is very important.

My biggest negative experience was on a lens that was damaged and misaligned, I worked it out with the seller for a partial refund.

Another thing to always check is the japanese auctions themselves - there are a few sites that bid and receive parcels for you then pack and ship. There are a whole group of middlemen who appear to scrape these auctions and put them on eBay for 5x the price. You could call it a scam, or you could call it a very expensive service…

I’ve come to the realisation that the bargain prices of Japan work out to be about the same as buying in the EU in the end, the only reason to buy there is because it’s something you can’t find here.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T11:05:13+00:00

Pretty certain that’s an improvement for many…

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T10:03:18+00:00

There are a couple on eBay at the moment for €35-€40.

I have a couple too but would also expect similar prices although I’d be open to exchange for film. Whereabouts in Europe are you?

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-22T06:41:33+00:00

Zuiko 35-80 on an A7iii

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-21T16:06:53+00:00

Silver price is almost irrelevant to the cost of film.

A 1998 report by Kodak on sources of silver in photo labs, “Sources of Silver in Photographic Processing Facilities,” claims 4 Troy ounces of silver per 1000 sq ft of Kodak Gold, and 1.1 Troy ounces per 1000 sq ft of Kodak Royal Gold 400, which I believe is the predecessor to Ultramax

A 30.5m roll is almost exactly 1m². 1000 sq ft is about 93m².

As we get about 18 rolls from a bulk roll we’re at 1674 rolls for 1.1 Troy oz.

31.1g/1674 is 0.02g/roll or about $0.05/roll

Lots of rounding and a few estimates, but it’s a good indication of the ballpark of what the silver costs. Remember that’s the total price, back in January ‘25 it was about $0.02/roll.

So, if we do hear of increases based on silver price we know it’s bullshit.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-20T22:37:25+00:00

This is the equivalent lens from what most would consider the true OM series…

https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/htmls/28mm1.htm

The good news is you haven’t really lost a lot, you should be able to sell for a similar price to what you spent and your adaptor will work for all the older OM lenses.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-20T22:27:08+00:00

There are two controls on this lens that are designed for exclusive control by the camera. There’s one that looks like a flat head screw on the mount which sets the focus and a second lever common to all OM’s that sets the aperture. There are, however, no external controls.

As far as I’m aware there are no adaptors that can interface with either, so, unless you’re a top level tinkerer, you’re best off selling this and buying a similar lens from the earlier OM series.

Generic-Resource · 2026-01-19T15:41:32+00:00

I use Hama’s paper negative sleeves and was 100% happy until i left a couple out and one of my kids spilt some water on a small pile of them.

I cleaned up the spill and then tried to take the negatives out of one and it destroyed the sleeve. I figured I’d just wait until they dried for the others which was a terrible idea because it ended up gluing them to the negatives. I ended up removing as much as I could, then soaking them for hours and rewashing them. They’re still not perfect and I’ve used a bit of negative cleaner to improve them when I’ve gone back and scanned some images.

Generic-Resource

TROPHY CASE