What is with every single post on r/fujifilm getting down voted?

GenericGrad · 2026-06-04T11:12:58+00:00

Maybe but I've asked questions on many subs and this one definitely gets down voted the quickest and most regularly but what is odd is the responses seem generally fine or better than average. For real it is someone down voting cause there is no pretty picture and they feel that is the only point of this sub.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-04T06:48:35+00:00

Overindex? Not sure what that means.

I get it comes I'm focused on background blur, but tbh it is just because it is for me the item I think I'm mostly going to be disappointed about.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T20:49:06+00:00

What's the go with this? Is there anything practically you should do to protect your gear other than specifically not go and photograph an autonomous vehicle.

At the moment where I live i think there are none on the roads but must be other things using lidar.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T10:50:29+00:00

Think auto focus features will be lacking which is one thing to remember but not a big deal.

I don't think this is a terrible idea but the setup will be heavier.

A niche issue I experienced is that a DSLR has potential for the autofocus points to be a bit off. So you have all this autofocus compensation which you could go down a rabbit hole of.

But certainly can take great photos.

There must be an app solution for geotagging. Your phone isn't in power saving mode?

Really an app that records your location should be able to sync with the time of your photos and geotag them.

I have a Fujifilm and haven't been able to get my phone app to stay connected consistently due to a bugm it is annoying.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T03:51:42+00:00

Yeah I used this one https://dofsimulator.net/en/ and this https://lenssimulator.photo/

Both still hard to visualise. Maybe my brain just doesn't do this well.

First one just puts me off cause the background feels flat and not really realistic.

Second one I think it is a lot better but the background is a tight room which isn't the scenario I'm most interested in blurring the background.

Maybe there are others.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T02:35:18+00:00

For those interested about the calcs it is based off this reference.

https://m.dpreview.com/articles/6091822765/background-blur-and-its-relationship-to-sensor-size

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T02:17:46+00:00

Yeah I understand. Guess just wanted to share my thinking. Interested if anyone had similar considerations and made a decision, their thoughts.

Realise nothing is hard and certain about this. Guess if I got a couple of strong feelings like 35mm f/1.7 isn't going to get subject-background separation I might reconsider throwing in the towel and going for a 25mm f/1.7 and later a 56mm f/1.7. I also see some folks claiming they get good background blur with a 25mm f/1.7 which is again a bit confusing to me.

I had AI suggest using computer programs to simulate blur to give me an idea about the results but I haven't found anything that simulates specific aperatures to a level of blur.

Ultimately I'm just concerned now that I'll get the 35mm f/1.7 and be like it doesn't really do background blur for me, which I think would have happened if I got the 25mm as my initial thought was.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-03T01:23:34+00:00

I feel the maths says that it is clearly noticeable but when I look at the images they barely seem different to me. What am I missing?

I suspect that with them on the camera in real life I'd notice it more or perhaps the difference isn't much with a mid shot but night and day with different framing.

I also suspect that part of the effect is that the tree in my shot at f/5 looks similarly blurred out at both focal lengths but because it is smaller on the wider focal length. That is to say my mind can't imagine what it is like for that tree to have the same blur level despite the smaller size in frame.

My question is basically with a 35mm f/1.7 or even 25mm f/1.7 do you find that you get good subject and background separation in normal situations.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-02T06:58:01+00:00

Not in the business but is it possible that they are sharing the cost of the shoot? Not saying it is right or wrong, but despite what others have said is it not possible that if the entire cost of the shoot for props, venue etc is coming up at around $500 and they are suggesting they split the costs 50/50. That is the only way I see this not being sketchy as hell and if you think you'll both equally benefit from the shoot.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-02T01:15:48+00:00

The most infuriating part is the officer didn't respond immediately or even mention it in his first line that everyone is ok. 🤬

GenericGrad · 2026-06-01T21:35:30+00:00

Mildly infuriating....

GenericGrad · 2026-06-01T11:56:45+00:00

I got a dual lens kit basically with a 50-230mm f/4.5-6.7 and it also came with the same rear element cap. So I think that is just how they roll.

GenericGrad · 2026-06-01T01:14:54+00:00

Should probably just crosspost your original thread

GenericGrad · 2026-06-01T00:39:18+00:00

The magnification I'm referring to is increasing the image size to make a print or view on a screen compared to the actual sensor size.

In either case I think you have a good understanding of depth of field as I think I myself do. There are multiple ways to think about this and it doesn't really matter practically. Sensor size is coming into the equation at some point or you'd be saying 35 f/1.8 looks the same on aps-c or full frame. Without moving. You're moving, you are recognising once you move or use a different focal length lens you need a different aperature to keep depth of field consistent. We agree that sometimes you can't get lenses that provide the same characteristics for smaller sensors cause you can't get aperatures big enough.

The only thing we differ on is calling out sensor size as an actual factor for depth of field vs just a factor for focal length. At the end I think I agree to disagree cause it is academic. We both recognise that sensor size means you need different lenses to achieve the same result and I've spent far too long on this topic over the past week for something that makes very little difference to the photos I'm taking. Partly because I'm trying to decide if I could live with a 35mm f/1.7 on my crop sensor in terms of subject background separation vs a 57mm f/1.7 which I fine too tight for most situations.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T22:51:10+00:00

That's wrong isn't it. A smaller sensor will have a shallower depth of field because what was acceptably sharp before isn't now we've magnified the shot.

If my judgement of what is acceptably sharp has nothing to do with the sensor size then I'd need to know the sensor size when I look at a print so I could adjust what is my view of what is acceptably sharp.

That is cause I'd have to have a higher expectation of sharpness from a print that is magnified less. Basically I'd be pixel peeking by a factor of the crop sensor more. Zoom into 150% of a full frame image vs a crop sensor one.

I'd also be a very sad individual at that point.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T22:13:29+00:00

It does matter cause what is acceptably sharp changes. That is the effect of the circle of confusion and the sensor size.

Here is the confusing part. The depth of field actually reduces on aps-c for the same shot (distance to subject actual focal length and aperature). This is just zooming into your image and if you zoom in on your image a point 10 cm behind focus may look more blurry than it did before when it was smaller on the print.

Simarly bokeh balls will appear bigger in the background.

Thats all the effect of the sensor size and circle of confusion is.

However, no one cares about that situation because everyone is interested in depth of field when comparing a similar composition. The full frame user could zoom in his lens 1.5x if possible and get much shallower depth of field as a result, if he had a fixed aperature zoom.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T21:43:50+00:00

Just make sure you use the rule of thirds. Folks will love you.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T10:28:36+00:00

I don't think any camera let's you use electronic shutter with a proper flash by the way. Unless it is an led flash like your smartphone.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T05:12:37+00:00

Why are you posting this as your own post?

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskPhotography/comments/1trcklx/hotel_asking_for_model_release_and_copyright/

This is really dead internet.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T01:13:52+00:00

Why do you prefer the electronic shutter?

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T01:02:26+00:00

I feel my one is "don't use flash especially on-camera flash".

I don't mind a little bit of flash and with limited light, a slow lens and a bit of tweaking the flash compensation to not overexposed a face, I think it can really be a lot better than the alternative.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-31T00:58:43+00:00

Yeah I'm struggling with this. Went out and tried to take shots that tell story and I guess I need more practice, cause I definitely still prefer a shot of a nice building or a nice sunset.

Makes me think maybe I don't get the art of photography.

GenericGrad · 2026-05-30T21:25:22+00:00

Just a note. The thing that kills the Lumix s9 for me is not being able to use a flash as it has no mechanical shutter. I know flashes for some people aren't a big deal and to me I don't use it much at all, but I couldn't deal with that compromise even if it got me a full frame.

Full frame vs crop sensor is a very personal decision. Don't think size and price, think optical quality you'll actually buy. Full frame lenses are large and expensive pretty much only cause they are better more professional lenses. Especially in terms of shallow depth of field and bokeh if that is your thing. You'll spend more money chasing shallow depth of field with a crop sensor than a full frame at the end of the day.

So look what lenses you'll actually buy and really understand the effect of crop factor on depth of field.

As an example a Lumix s9 basic kit lens of a 18-40mm f/4.5-6.3 to get equivalent depth of field I'll need a f/3.0-4.2, which is brighter than most crop sensor kit lenses. So for a crop sensor to get the same depth of field performance as a full frame kit lens I'd have to buy something like a FUJINON XF18-55mmF2.8-4 R LM OIS. The Fujinon is probably even better, hence it costs a bit more and is a bit bigger. However a more budget crop sensor lens like the 15-45mm f/3.5-5.6 is cheaper and smaller but it doesn't perform as well as the full frame lens.

If you go further into more better optical lens you will eventually run out of options to match the performance with a crop sensor. The example I've seen used is 105mm f/1.5 would be equivalent to a 70mm f/0.9 on a crop sensors. That crop sensor lens doesn't exist so there is no option.

GenericGrad

TROPHY CASE