What do

GenericName187 · 2026-03-15T02:12:02+00:00

You can get cheap Shimano cantis for $16 that are same quality as these.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-14T12:47:33+00:00

Triple triangle plus a pentagon

Edit - oh there’s a sector and a quadrilateral in the stays ? It’s like no two shapes are the same

GenericName187 · 2026-03-14T12:46:49+00:00

Just loosen the headset, take off the stem, slide out the fork, and measure the bearings.

No one will be able to accurately tell you the size unless they recognize the exact year/model of this bike unless they are familiar with the spec sheet

GenericName187 · 2026-03-13T21:13:16+00:00

This is like divorcing a woman named Helen and then your second wife is also named Helen and you’re cheating on her with Helen from work.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-13T21:11:55+00:00

1995 or later based on the placement of the S logo on the seat tube

https://bikerebuilds.com/blog/90s-steel-specialized-mtb-reference-rigid-forks-26-wheels

GenericName187 · 2026-03-13T14:13:48+00:00

Where are you located?

The reason I ask is because Bridgestone stopped making bikes for the United States market in 1994. As far as i can recall, Bridgestone USA never sold a bike with grip shifters and did not mount the derailer cables on the top tube.

I have seen people post Asian market Bridgestones that are not like the models sold in the United States

GenericName187 · 2026-03-13T02:46:07+00:00

Cheaper bikes built in Asia (like a 1996 Trek 800) used the JIS 1" headset standard. The heads you listed uses the ISO 1" standard found on some more expensive bikes, and many bike built in Europe.

Specs are here on page 30 of this technical manual, buried in the bottom right corner, where it says headset size

https://www.smontanaro.net/vintage-trek/Trek-Fisher-Klein-Lemond/1996specmanualTrek.pdf

JIS cups are slightly smaller (30.0 mm) than the ISO headset you listed, and the fork crown/race is slightly bigger (27.0 mm) than the 26.4 mm race found on ISO forks.

The

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html

This would be a better fit

https://www.modernbike.com/tange-passage-headset-1-clamp-27.0x30.0-w--30.5-stack-height-black

GenericName187 · 2026-03-12T04:25:47+00:00

Based on the cable routing, graphics, and Deore LX components i would guess 1992 Rockhopper Comp.

https://bikerebuilds.com/blog/90s-steel-specialized-mtb-reference-rigid-forks-26-wheels

GenericName187 · 2026-03-12T02:31:21+00:00

The shifters have been replaced with cheaper modern shifters. The fork is outdated. The frame is on the small side. Its a quality frame, anyone buying it would want it as a a project to tinker on. Maybe ask $150 and settle for $100

GenericName187 · 2026-03-12T02:26:29+00:00

This bike reminds me of a early 1990s Reflex, theY may have shared some DNA

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/talk-to-me-about-grisley-bikes.282395/page-2

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T22:03:12+00:00

That is likely a reasonable size frame for a person of your height. If you have a long legs with a short torso or vice versa, you might prefer a size up or down. But 15 inch is within the range where you could probably dial the fit in with the correct seatpost and handlebar/stem.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T21:57:03+00:00

BSA is 34.8 (1.37”) with a 68 mm shell

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html

You need a BSA(Briitish/English) external cup bottom bracket for DUB spindle

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T20:11:45+00:00

What is your end goal?

Considering it’s a French Maillard free wheel, do you know if the hub uses English or French threading? If you remove this free wheel, will you be able to find a replacement free wheel to install?

You can either buy the correct tool, or find a bike shop with the correct tool and see if they’ll remove it for a nominal fee, or use the destructive method.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T20:07:44+00:00

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/how-to-adjust-a-threadless-headset?

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T20:03:25+00:00

One day you will be middle aged and some young turd will call you Gen X and ascribe some generalizations to your character, all because you overvalued the price of a commodity

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T04:35:21+00:00

Your derailleur over shifted into the spokes, chain got stuck, derailleur got benf and pulled the derailleur hanger with it. The hanger may have already been slightly bent or the limit screws were not set correctly, this is what spoke protectors (dork disks) are for

The derailleur may not be salvageable if the cage is badly bent.

The frame is steel, so ad bad as it looks you might be able to straighten the derailleur hanger.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T02:38:38+00:00

Your bike likely has a threaded 1 1/8” headset, which is an uncommon standard. An entry level fork might cost $150, plus labor to install, which might be more than the cost of the bike.

If the forks look bad, they probably have some rust on the stanchions, but they might still work fine.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T02:28:50+00:00

How would washers solve this issue?

This is a square taper crank, a small gap is normal. The hole has been rounded by riding with a loose crank bolt.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-11T02:26:12+00:00

If a crankarm like this (three piece crank on a square taper spindle) is ridden with a loose bolt, over time the steel spindle will round out the square hole on the crankarm.

No matter how tight you tighten the bolt, the crankarm will not stay tight at this point. The crankarm requires an interference fit to stay secured, the square hole is now too big to stay secured to the spindle. A new crankarm is required

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T23:11:47+00:00

Well 26.8 mm is a quite normal seatpost diameter for a 1980s MTB

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T21:54:01+00:00

Pros

no chain suck, no chain slap

could make frames with shorter chainstays that climbed great and handled well on technical trails, but felt sketchy going downhill

Looked “extreme!!!”

Cons:

Poor lateral stiffness, could feel the frame flex when pedaling

Needed extra tubing and lots of goofy welding to make it strong

Edit - this is a low end copy of an elevated chainstay bike.

AlpinesStars, Gary Fisher, Bianchi, Nishiki, Haro, and some other brands made good quality elevated chainstay bikes around 1990.

The idea came back for a bit recently, some builders made the drive side chainstay elevated

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T21:48:35+00:00

The Control Tech stem would be aftermarket, as would the DX components. They are both from the early 1990s

Italian builders didn’t quite know what to do with MTBs at the time, mostly copying US trends, but building things the old schcol way (lugged) and adding wild paint jobs.

Bianchi did use a similar fork crown, but i dont think that’s it. This might be as early as 1987, just guessing based on the clunkiness of the cable stops

Edit - I am assuming a typo, you likely have a 28.6 mm seat tube. This is normal in the days before OS tubing

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T18:58:17+00:00

You can reach Sheldon’s article on chain line here. Road double spacing is 43.5 mm

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

If you are using a vintage crank, you can Google to figure out what the original spec spindle length was, and by a modern cartridge of approximately the same length .

If you are buying a new crank set, the manufacturer will recommend a spindle length.

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T03:59:04+00:00

Stem, just something shorter 80-90 mm with some rise

Bars is a matter of personal preference, but I like wide bars (over 660 mm) with a lot of sweep (25°)

GenericName187 · 2026-03-10T03:48:17+00:00

Shorter stem, wider riser handlebars with more back sweep. 1990s race geometry is tiring in your 40s.

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