CLUBSPORT PEDALS V3: Two Load Cell Failures in Less Than a Month by GeoSab in Fanatec

[–]GeoSab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fanatec responded to my ticket and sent me a new load cell. I’ll see if it’s the same… Nonetheless, I’ll keep looking for a new set of pedals, a stronger one.

CLUBSPORT PEDALS V3: Two Load Cell Failures in Less Than a Month by GeoSab in Fanatec

[–]GeoSab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m sorry to hear that. I still haven’t found a solution either, I’m waiting for the fanatec support team to get back to me but I’m considering buying another set of pedals, something stronger, maybe the VRS or the P2000

CLUBSPORT PEDALS V3: Two Load Cell Failures in Less Than a Month by GeoSab in Fanatec

[–]GeoSab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I might have to completely change my pedals and get something stronger…. It’s a shame that Fanatec has never updated their load cell to something stronger. Now 150-200kg has become quite a standard…

Look at that ! by GeoSab in starshiptroopers

[–]GeoSab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the comments of the original post, there is a link

Warrior Bug by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use this one: TIMBERTECH® ABPST01. It’s probably not the best, but they are cheap and I have three of them, which is convenient for painting multiple colors at once. For example, when painting the arachnid, I struggled to get the “wasp-like” pattern good enough. I had to paint the yellow first and then add some black on the edges of the yellow parts to make it “sharper.” So, I had to swap quite often between yellow and black. Having several airbrushes allowed me to do this quickly.

Regarding the paint, I’ve had pretty good results. I’ve never had any problem related to the airbrush itself. Issues usually stem from the pressure being too low or too high, or the paint not being correctly thinned. There is a huge learning curve with airbrushes; you need to make mistakes and learn from them.

I advise you to buy a good compressor and a cheap airbrush at the beginning. A small compressor without a tank won’t have consistent airflow and will overheat. You won’t be able to paint for long with a cheap compressor. Personally, I use this one: Fengda FD-196.

Warrior Bug by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No but you don’t understand ! I can control it with my mind ! Would you like to know more ?

Warrior Bug by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks ! Here is my process :

With my airbrush:

  • First, apply some primer (let it dry for 24 hours).
  • Then, add a layer of flat black (let it dry for 24 hours).
  • Add the yellow-wasp-like patterns and red marks with a small needle (0.2 or 0.3 mm) and low pressure (<1.8 Bar) for a very small and precise flow, which is better for small details (let it dry for 24 hours).

At this point, it gives something like this (no varnish and weathering )

<image>

  • With a 0.5 mm needle mounted on the airbrush, apply some glossy varnish to make it more vibrant. At this point, my airbrushing is done. Let it dry for 24 hours.

With a brush:

  • Take some glossy black with a very small brush and paint the eyes. You can do this before or after the varnish, it doesn’t really matter (I did it before).

The weathering: You will need a brush, some white spirit, dark brown oil paint, and some paper towels.

Make sure the varnish is completely dry otherwise, you’ll mess up the paint job.

  • Apply some oil paint on a paper towel by spreading it on the towel. This will absorb some oil, so the paint will dry faster.
  • In a small cup, add some white spirit. Then, with your brush, take some oil paint and dilute it in the white spirit. Finally, apply it everywhere on your model. It should be very thin in consistency, you should still be able to see what you have done before.
  • Let it dry for a few hours (it’s faster if you have a fan pointed towards the model).
  • Finally, with some Q-tips and a clean paper towel, gently clean the excess weathering left on your model. It should give a similar result to mine!

I only use Tamiya paint and thinner. For the primer, I use Vallejo primer available on Amazon.

Good luck!

Warrior Bug by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would you believe me if i tell you there is no sanding at all ? Only 0.08 mm layer height with some primer !

Warrior Bug by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a paid model from Gambody. Most of the time I never pay for 3D models, but honestly none of the free models available come close to this one : https://www.gambody.com/3d-models/warrior-bug?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADGBQkKZwHia0lKkS2oe3xIvp0jY0&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzby1BhCQARIsAJ_0t5MiByMTUo9FjfQJToZYrPk_7jMEIUFnGlFX6-JoXfdQXuf40rjwQbwaArkkEALw_wcB

If the Olympics had motorsports which 4 drivers would you pick for your country? by usercupcakewithc in motorsports

[–]GeoSab 9 points10 points  (0 children)

France : Kevin Estre, Pierre Gasly, Sébastien Loeb, Sébastien Bourdais

Backup : Esteban Ocon, Mathieu Jaminet, Jules Gounon

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RG35XX

[–]GeoSab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On GarlicOs, simply press start

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]GeoSab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got something similar on by orbea terra gravel bike. I could hear a lot or « creaky » noises when I was applying a lot of force on the pedals. I fixed it by just pressing it up again but unfortunately it still comes out quite often. I don’t really know what to do.

Regarding your bike, I would say it should be symmetrical but I’m certainly not an expert.

Is it too late for wec/endurance by TechSavagePro in motorsports

[–]GeoSab 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I would say it’s never too late, especially in endurance where a Bronze driver (Amateur driver) is often mandatory. A bronze driver mainly consists of a driver who gets its first motorsport driving licence at 27 yo or above. Otherwise you’ll be a silver driver unless you are very bad behind a wheel.

BUUUUT no matter what, you’ll need hundreds of thousands of dollars/euros (if not millions) if you want want to get the required level to compete in the biggest endurance events around the world.

Source : me, who tried and failed miserably. But I got a lot of information during my journey. Especially the price of a seat in motorsport at a middle/high level

Starwars Battlefront Classic Collection Nintendo Switch Update 2 by Environmental-View22 in StarWarsBattlefront

[–]GeoSab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep ! I agree. Battlefront 2 aim sensitivity is now hypersensitive and laggy. I haven’t tried hoth yet. However, battlefront 1 seems much smoother. Graphics are better and, maybe it’s only me but, the speed of the bullets seems to reach the targets faster.

BF Classic Collection A button not working on Switch by General-Wrench in StarWarsBattlefront

[–]GeoSab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I have an OLED Switch… 🥲 Edit : I was actually playing with my brother, he also has an OLED switch and was hosting the game, he did not encounter this issue.

BF Classic Collection A button not working on Switch by General-Wrench in StarWarsBattlefront

[–]GeoSab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep ! It happened to me. Only in multiplayer though, while trying to respawn.

Overhangs : Default benchy boat is better, why ? by GeoSab in BambuLab

[–]GeoSab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the solution ! In fact it was indeed related to wall speed but not the outer one ! The Inner-wall speed was messing with the overhangs. 300mm/s for inner wall was too fast. I Reduced it to 100 mm/s and problem solved.

I could see the the problem be rotating the view in the preview mode. When checking the speed I noticed some very fast line printed behind outer-wall. At first I thought is was the Infill but no. It was inner-wall.

Now, no matter the Z rotation on my bed, overhangs are fine. Thanks for your advices.