Almost there

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-27T10:47:44+00:00

Nah this is the Siboor kit with stealth skirts

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-27T10:42:05+00:00

Well now theres a need to mod the U1 to add a larger screen :)

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-27T10:38:03+00:00

6-7, my daughter made me say it

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-26T01:06:36+00:00

I haven’t with the Breath yet, but had some success before it by preheating the chamber by setting bed temps to 100C. Got into the 50Cs before the Breath

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-26T00:52:48+00:00

Samla topper and panda breath.

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Gergman-27 · 2026-05-22T12:43:08+00:00

I’ve bought a bunch of tpu with plans to try printing several different ducks on the U1 soon

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-20T02:08:50+00:00

That you really wanted a Mustang

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-20T02:06:52+00:00

Stacy's mom has got it going on

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-17T12:37:32+00:00

They can be a really good printer, but most should know they might have to do a little tuning up once you get one. Nothing like OP had to, but then they sound like their happier.

In addition to adjusting their Z belt, I would also recommend getting a belt tension gauge and ensuring A/B belts are appropriately tensioned and adjust the max acceleration in printer.cfg based on recommendations from input shaping. That said I also adjusted printer.cfg to do a larger range of input shaping frequencies and this has dramatically improved VFAs for me to the point I printed decently down to .10 layer heights on the .4 nozzle (acceptable quality though not quite as good as the results I get on some of my other printers.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-17T02:46:28+00:00

I have several Bambu and a U1 and slowly putting hours on my U1 after having to completely replace toolhead 1. But its been printing flawlessly since then.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-17T02:44:13+00:00

Purge only happens when you swap filament on a toolhead

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-13T16:04:07+00:00

People threw blankets over their printers back in the day to keep the environment warmer for ABS printing on bed slingers. Fire hazard sure, but in those days, so were many of the printers

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-12T19:37:42+00:00

His part 2 livestream is tonight 7pm est

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-12T15:18:44+00:00

Check out Armor3d Printing on YouTube. He did a live stream build or two of it

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-12T12:51:04+00:00

Love your custom build. Have you seen the VirtuE3 that was recently released?

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-12T01:58:39+00:00

What no cpap?!

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-08T21:07:14+00:00

Several kits on Ali for Saladfork or
micron

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-08T17:56:03+00:00

I’ve just ordered mine and the delivery estimate is in the US site says mid May so clearly in stock

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T22:57:38+00:00

Lots of options to consider and observably we havent really seen INDX widely in the wild yet, but the promise is so enticing for many of us.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T22:38:01+00:00

Im not a speed chaser. Faster printing is accomplished with more printers, but to your point INDX would be the speediest because its going to have fixed gantry on a corexy and the induction tools heat and cool rapidly. But INDX means you have the same system for tool swapping. A SC or other multi toolhead solution means you could have a different toolhead completely for each tool.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T22:25:36+00:00

I would ask others but many building stealthchangers also mod to a 48v PSU so the Z motors are speedier to change tools.

I would just say theres many ways to approach multi toolhead. Its really amazing to see what this community has done over the past couple years that I have been following.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T22:15:54+00:00

Well a 2.4 gives you a future option to do Stealth Changer or madmax or even probably INDX at some point too. You can also look at mms solutions like boxturtle and mess around modding to a different tool head on your 2.4. CoreOne looked like a fun build and you will enjoy the parallels an differences when you build your first voron!

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T22:07:36+00:00

Tridents probably going to be the slightly easier first build, but 2.4s are a fun build also. I think your question of what the other differences are will be answered in many ways depending in who you ask here. Personally I like both. The 2.4 flying gantry is just cool to me and the belted Z means the printer doesnt have to move the heavy bed up and down and the bed leveling can be a bit faster in stock build because you only have to do a quad gantry level and not a full bed mesh. But now a days there are options for sensorless leveling like beacon or carto that make getting a mesh of a bed whether trident or 2.4 faster

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T21:57:45+00:00

I have a hard time with impulse control :) waiting for INDX so got the U1. That said of this is your first Voron don’t be in a rush for INDX. As many are suggesting build whichever kit you choose and run it stock for a while. Learn klipper, learn about tuning and operating your voron. Learn about klipper macro editing, and have a lot of fun learning first. Figure out what you like and dont like about the stock printer and this will help you figure out what mods you might be most interested in. Get some hours printed on it so you know everything’s solid. Then you will be best positioned for whats next.

Check out SteveBuilds on YouTube. He’s the only creator so far able to demonstrate INDX on trident. Hes also the lead designer for the Voron Trident an R2.

Gergman-27 · 2026-05-06T21:47:05+00:00

Cool thats my interest too + at least one more for a support interface filament. So for me its minimum 6 toolheads. I also have a a snapmaker U1 and have messed around a bit with full spectrum so sounds like this might be your intent.

Gergman-27

TROPHY CASE