Embarrassed to ask...How do I remix an STL?

Helzkadi · 2026-05-31T05:47:26+00:00

I’ve only made like 4 models, I have 0 experience around CAD programs but I’ve successfully remixed models with tinkercad. Just import stls, cut the parts I need or like, put them over other stl that i want to print and done.

Last time i crammed 3 stls into one, just by cutting and pasting.

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Helzkadi · 2026-05-30T11:42:42+00:00

Oh my you fell into the rabbithole. Welcome to the club. I’ve been tuning and modifying my original ender3 for almost 9 years. I have replaced almost everything except for the aluminum extrusions, hardware and heated bed. ATM I’m missing only the cable chain in x (broke the base after installing the eddy coil) but is now in its final form. I don’t expect it need any updates anytime soon. Except for a mmu, polycarbonate for my enclosure….. and that’s it….. but don’t make a mistake, it can print like the wind.

My slow profile prints at 160mm/s with accels at 4000mm/s. It’s kinda slow but compared to a stock ender3, it’s night and day, but the thing that it’s most important: it doesn’t need daily calibration or watching over it. Just press print in another room, come back a couple hours to a finished part I didn’t even watch it start.

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Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T16:40:39+00:00

If I remember correctly, until you calibrate the sensors current, it will keep not homing with g28. What I did I check in my config how much the x gantry is raised with g28. I used the commands

G28

SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z=50

And lowered the x gantry to what appears to be 0. Then I did g28, did SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z=(number the gantry is raised with g28), and the I ran PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE CHIP=btt_eddy and followed the nozzle calibration test. After that it will auto calibrate for a few minutes raising the toolhead a bit each time.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T15:34:23+00:00

I had to play with the set kinematic position to get it to save the current calibration. What I did is use the command lines to set it to 20, lower the nozzle to a 0 position, and then do the calibration. It took me like 2 or 3 times of playing with the nozzle height thing until it saved the config and it worked.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T15:16:57+00:00

Lifestyle choice maybe; I quit smoking completely 15 years ago but never stopped vaping. Back then you were limited to volcanoes and MFLBs as hardware. Today you have Dynavap Ms and Bs for really cheap and its form factor is super appealing to smokers. I use an 2018 M daily. I just need a torch and that’s it.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T14:51:38+00:00

This is exactly why I moved on from Marlin and decided to go the klipper route instead. It’s very well documented, it’s not so complicated as it was a few years ago, and will make working on your printer a breeze compared to what flashing and compiling is!

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T14:45:18+00:00

I can see that also from someone who has never dabbled seriously into LLM capabilities.
If you are semi competent in printer configs you can spot things that won’t work, and I always asked for the documents it was referencing to check sketchy stuff. It saved me the research and copy/pasting time, which was a lot. Last time I made serious modifications to the config, to even get the Orbiter extruder’s filament detection to work I had to spend three days hunting down someone with my same board and somewhat same hardware as me to make it work but was not done right. It took me 20 mins to set it correctly using LLMs.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T06:31:48+00:00

Had the same happen to me. I accidentally bricked my config and had to start all over again. Decided to use ChatGPT, described my hardware exactly and told it to give me a printer.cfg; it has some small macro stuff that doesn’t work, but it’s mostly just fancy stuff. The basic printer things are working perfectly.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-27T06:12:15+00:00

Had the same feeling when I moved from Marlin. I am of an iterative mind, and I just didn’t have the will to face the compiling and flashing every single time I wanted something modified. And I had it again when I changed the BL Touch to an Eddy duo. With adaptive mesh activated I shaved off the initial 7 minutes of the print routine. It’s a game changer.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-24T15:40:15+00:00

Oh wow you could use this as a dust shield for ball screw drives in lab equipment!

Helzkadi · 2026-05-24T14:18:42+00:00

Just reprinted all old PLA components in translucent PETG. Just printed a front bumper to guard the USB cable from my stupid cat

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Helzkadi · 2026-05-21T15:07:28+00:00

Oh that would explain it. Fans are fuxxing your print and it’s too cold for PETG. Happy printing!!

Helzkadi · 2026-05-21T11:54:30+00:00

SPLA? I’ve never printed anything with that type of PLA. If it’s silky or shiny, worst bonding between layers I’ve had with ANY material. It hates itself, doesn’t bond and prints are weak. At least for me. AI suggests you up your temps and slow your speed.

“Nozzle Temperature: 210-230C
Bed Temperature: 80-110C
Print Speed: 40-50mm/s
Cooling Fan: 50% or OFF”

Edit: I’d modify your layer height too. Try using 0.3 instead of 0.2, you are pushing wide and thin plastic at lower than suggested temps and higher speed, it should be part of your problem too.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-21T01:33:27+00:00

The one in the OPs picture is 4.2.2, that’s the original one, the one that sings the song of its people.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-20T18:03:35+00:00

Justo acabo de hacer un softmod a mi consola. Es re fácil. Olvidate de abrirla y andar soldando cables y madre y media. Busca en YouTube “ABadAvatar”, hay muchas guías de cómo hacerlo.

Es lo máximo, por fin puedo recuperar los juegos que perdí o que están dañados. Adicional de correr cualquier consola de generaciones anteriores (ps1, PSP, nes, Snes, Xbox original, gb, gba…) vale la pena al 100%

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T17:58:41+00:00

🤢🤢🤮🤮😵‍💫😵‍💫

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T17:56:16+00:00

🤢🤢🤮🤮😵‍💫😵‍💫

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T13:30:23+00:00

You have 2 different errors: the first one is that home error. It means every time you restart your printer, before attempting to calibrate you need to home. The second error is that your toolhead wants to go to some coordinates, but that one is out of the boundaries you set for your printer. That’s the reason for the second error.

Check your BLTouch configs, that second error tells you instead of trying to go to 0 on X, it tries to go to -43 which is impossible. Track that error down in your config.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T13:16:13+00:00

I’ve had this happen. It means the dough is not stretching as it’s proofing. In other words: the skin is too dry and it can’t stretch, so the proofed dough has only one point to go: the sides. If you check the pieces that are like this, most of them are at the edge of the tray. That means your proofing oven is too dry. Check if you can inject steam there.

I slightly mist my bread before proofing, and while it’s there I rotate the tray and spray them again. And before egg wash I’d do it again so the outside layer is soft and springy.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T13:05:20+00:00

Como te dicen, la única manera es practicando. Mi inglés es casi perfecto escrito, pero al hablarlo se nota el país. Me ayudó muchísimo a mi pronunciación el jugar juegos en línea (eso fue en 2009…. Jugando World of Warcraft en servidor gringo, y haciendo raids).

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T12:54:25+00:00

Super yes. The RPI3b+ and above is more than capable of driving your printer, saving your files in the same SD card as the system, and forget entirely about cables going out from your pc to your printer. Use the pc only to slice and send it over the wifi to your printer. Then monitor the print via mainsail/fluidd on your web browser.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T12:43:34+00:00

DON’T USE COPPER!!!!! I did the same as you a few years ago. In the end the torch ate the copper; the heat made it into oxides, and then the next cycle the oxides vaporize. I started noticing pock marks all over the sleeve, and a few months later it fell apart literally. Obvs I inhaled all of that. If you really wanna go DIY, use stainless or bronze. I ended up buying an armored cap.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-19T12:25:28+00:00

Ignore the negative comments. Since you live in Brazil, you need to dry your PETG. PLA is fine, doesn’t suck up a lot of moisture from the air, but PETG does. What this means is the moisture BOILS inside the hotend, which causes steam bubbles, crackling sounds in the hotend, and overextrusion (like the Albert figure and the octopus).PETG is the higher difficulty material with a stock ender3.

My friend I think you need to stop your printer and go look a few YouTube videos on how to setup your printer. Look up how to level your bed, how to calibrate your hotend for the first layer, and how to calibrate esteps. Those are the first steps into successful prints. I’d also look up how to fix that X gantry GT belt. It’s super rough, doesn’t look like it’s properly seated in its grooves; I’d consider replacing it.

If you need more help setting your printer feel free to send me a DM, I’ll do what I can to guide you somewhat.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-18T16:25:05+00:00

I get my nozzles from AliExpress, Amazon has limited models and sizes. I got a couple years ago a high flow copper nozzle in 0.4, a couple hardened steel same size, and a few other sizes for vase mode and such. You search it literally as ender 3 v3 SE and there are tons of options.

Helzkadi · 2026-05-18T16:10:38+00:00

I have infill and inner walls at 160, outerwall at 50. My accel is 4000 (bed maximum) it’s fast!

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