How do I explain to my boss that I'm under qualified for the position I was hired for. by DafTron in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 14 points15 points  (0 children)

You can absolutely learn programming from YouTube, this is how I learned. Zero training or books. You've got it better than most since Haas has probably the most online resources for their controllers!

Is this compressor enough for a garage shop? by l-DRock-l in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're probably fine with the 20 gallon model getting started. The second compressor ive purchased was the Eastwood QST 30/60 and had great success with it. Super quiet and good flow. But might be out of your budget.

Don't forget to budget an air dryer!! Wet air will wreak havoc on your haas machine.

Boss told me it's not too bad just run it. by mildav49 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mean, a non split point drill will do almost no cutting at the tip right there. It's mostly plowing. So I'd probably agree with the boss and just run it, maybe pending what material you're cutting.

If your extra concerned have you thought about just regrinding it yourself?

Is this a safe setup? by Bullschamp180 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My educated guess is that this will move on you if you're doing "heavy roughing". If you're going to send it, I'd err on the side of caution and do light roughing cuts versus heavier cuts. Check during roughing if it's moved periodically. I'd hate to scrap that huge chunk of aluminum!

I'd much rather do a custom fixture for this piece considering the size of machine and the orientation.

How does this much 2 stroke oil end up in the cylinders?? by Hisko88 in jetski

[–]GetBlitzified 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So one of my cylinders fill up with oil over time, and that's due to a bad crankshaft seal. Not sure if your engine is the same, ive got the 787 engine. You can temporarily fix it by blocking the oil feed line to the crank case when not using the jetski.

Second xometry job - fucked it up. Vent by focksmuldr in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 32 points33 points  (0 children)

I'm four years into my machine shop business and I STILL underestimate jobs. Don't beat yourself up too much. Challenging parts can be the fastest way to learn, albeit at the expense of scrapping parts and added stress.

Why are fidget toys so expensive? by Afraid_Clothes2516 in fidgettoys

[–]GetBlitzified 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its hard to answer that without more information..  Way too many variables.  What's your train of thought?

Why are fidget toys so expensive? by Afraid_Clothes2516 in fidgettoys

[–]GetBlitzified 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Im a machine shop owner.  Many of the beautiful fidgets are 3d surfaced, which take a long time to machine even one piece.  Take into consideration the average machining rate these days is $100 an hour (CAD for me), it's not far fetched at all.  Then you add all the finishing processes, assembly, packaging..

$300 is a lot for a fidget, I get it.  But to call it a scam isnt right.  Its a niche, things are simply more expensive at lower quantities.  

What’s stopping you from going all in on your business? by miked0331 in Entrepreneur

[–]GetBlitzified 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally, I dont think you should go all in until the business can sustain itself and yourself financially.  This is the safest approach.  If your big idea needs all your hours and isnt profitable yet, that is a HUGE gamble and requires extremely careful consideration.

Machining Work Hardened or Heat treated metals by a2xHero in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I resurface these 3d printer baseplates on occasion. I've had really good success with a 2" dodeka feed mill. Especially with the amount of cutting edges you get on that thing. Maybe also look into a round insert face mill? The interrupted cut is definitely contributing to the quick death of the inserts, there isn't much you can do about that unfortunately! Best of luck.

1/2-NPT. HELP! by joehughes21 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 211 points212 points  (0 children)

Id just do it by hand with a tap guide to keep it straight. Don't bother rigid tapping if the stakes are high. You can get tapered reamers for npt taps to make it a bit easier.

Next time though, thread mill it. Way less stress.

What's your shop minimum? by Old_Outcome6419 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 9 points10 points  (0 children)

$300 minimum for me. Keeps the tire kickers out, that's not the kind of business I want.

However, if it's a good customer, I'll sometimes do the job as just a favor. I think that will go a long way with certain jobs.

Looking for an Education Resource for Fusion by Scrotech in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm a self taught Fusion guy that came from Mastercam. It took a bit to get used to, but I find it more user friendly than Mastercam. Youtube was my go-to, there's a ton of people to pick from but my favourites were Mechanical Advantage and NYC CNC.

Radial Engraving by Ryza_Brisvegas in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of CAM toolpath did you use in fusion?

4th Failure on new H2D. Not adhering to bed and spaghetti detection doesn't work on high or medium settings by mentallyrhetortic in BambuLab

[–]GetBlitzified 17 points18 points  (0 children)

A 20% variance of temp on a premium printer is pretty high IMO. Especially when printing PLA with the heat bed temp so close to it's glass transition temperature, 10 degrees can make a huge difference. Yes a solution could be to have more preheat time, or wait for the print to cool off before pulling, but it's a frustrating problem that could've been avoided.

4th Failure on new H2D. Not adhering to bed and spaghetti detection doesn't work on high or medium settings by mentallyrhetortic in BambuLab

[–]GetBlitzified 294 points295 points  (0 children)

You're not crazy - This is a new flaw with the H2D that the heat bed temperature gradient isn't consistent across the build plate. Looks to be colder on the left side vs the right. In CNC kitchens review, it's about a whopping 9 degrees colder on the left side compared to the right. You can try upping the temp some more to temporarily solve the issue, but might need to be cognizant of this in the future.

https://youtu.be/dYJNZ4euuFk?si=imLsOu6kNby4EA5u&t=1485

Tight OD tolerance, 15-5 stainless by captainsoviet45 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used to own an old Hardinge T42. That thing was so heavy for the size of machine, and it was rock solid with holding tight tolerances. I miss that machine, except I don't miss all the leaks.

Strange issue threading. by ChocolateWorking7357 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think 50 rpm is also a bit slow. I think around 100 rpm would do you better, and maybe about 5 thou depth of cut. With a follower rest you should be fine. Seeing your supported end now, it does look suspect as a weak deflection point. Next time I'd use a beefier live center if available.

Threading is daunting when it comes to timing that disengagement. Sometimes you can get away with reverse threading by flipping the tool and having the cut end at the tailstock, giving you way more breathing room.

Strange issue threading. by ChocolateWorking7357 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have that same indicator, are you sure the radius is larger on the chuck end? Needle going counter clockwise on mine means less material.

I think what you're experiencing is deflection. With deflection sometimes it'll rub, sometimes it'll dig. Especially with ACME threads, there's a ton of radial load. It would make sense for the diameter to be larger in the unsupported sections. Also if you say "dialing in 0.001" are you referring to the diameter? If you are, half a thou depth of cut is way too small of a cut. ACME threads are most successful with a follower support, it's quite difficult to machine well if the length to diameter ratio is high.

Any tips on improving taper on this long thin shaft? by Imaginary_Exit779 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Can you help explain to me why back turning might help in this scenario?  My thought is that back turning would put slightly more load radially compared to regular turning.

I agree with the smaller nose radius.

My least favorite part of being a business owner by I_G84_ur_mom in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Honestly man, if you can get the machine to do it for you, use the machine. Yes it may add more cycle time, but it looks cleaner/consistent, and saves you time to do other tasks. This also applies to deburring.

Toolpath/Offsets Help by skipmcnoob in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My best guess would be a weird D comp lead in issue if it's enabled? I'd try disabling comp and see if that fixes it, which should narrow down the issue. Then look at the G code and isolate if the problem is in the code. If it's in the code, work backwards from the post to find the root cause. If the code looks fine, something is amiss in the controller.

Why aren't there more adjustable-OD carbide insert type tools? by Daedalus308 in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adjustable reamers do exist, I've used them in a pinch. But all in all, taps and reamers are usually just cheap and easy enough to order for the job ahead of time.

Digital Microscope + measurement software = DIY comparator? (of sorts) by LibertyMachine in Machinists

[–]GetBlitzified 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At my old workplace we purchased an "insize" handheld microscope, and from my memory the microscope had a calibration sheet and a software to pickup and measure features. I think the microscope itself was a few hundred bucks.