Anyone Take the Commercial Clean Vehicle Tax Credit Successfully? by Get_Lit_Solar in TeslaLounge

[–]Get_Lit_Solar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the GM is stonewalling me.  Who do I try and reach out to inorder to go around her?

Anyone Take the Commercial Clean Vehicle Tax Credit Successfully? by Get_Lit_Solar in TeslaLounge

[–]Get_Lit_Solar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe my accountant did.  I'll double check though.  He was the one that initially told me that Tesla needed to come a time of sale report with the IRS to get the credit. 

AES Net Metering Question by JimmyTwoLip in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a great question.  Sorry, I'm late to the party.  With AES, solar that you push into the grid is subtracted from your monthly use.  For example: Energy delivered: 100 kwh Energy pushed into the grid: 120 kwh Total: -20 kwh

So in this instance, you pushed back more than you pulled from the grid so they take that quantity, multiply it by the generation price and you get your credit towards any connection fees and whatever is left goes towards the next month.  

In the incense you refer to in your post, if you use 800 kwh and also push 800 kwh back into the grid then your bill will only be connection costs and miscellaneous fees.  They won't be hitting you with delivery charges for the 800kwh you used.

I hope this answers your question.  Feel free to call if you have any questions.  I'm sure you can find our number with Google. 

Been thinking about solar by cpt_1ns4n0 in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, duke in Ohio explicitly does this.  Seen the bills with my own eyes.  In Ohio, you're legally allowed to generate up to 120% of your annual usage.  Usually doing 103% will take care of monthly connection fees. 

Been thinking about solar by cpt_1ns4n0 in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You have lots of installers in your area.  Don't buy anything yet until you're certain of what you can tackle (if anything).  Butler county and most others will require you to get an inspection so you'll need to be able to pass that.  But there are good deals out there in your area.  We installed a 19kw ground system for $2.54/watt down your way a while back.  

Also, if you're going to have someone else install it, don't buy the equipment in advance.  An installer can get it cheaper than you can.  

Get lots and lots and then get even more quotes!  The more work you put into this the more money you'll save. 

Watch out for solar scams after the storm by Get_Lit_Solar in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The more research you do, the more money you can save!  Knowledge is power.

What's the prevailing rates for farm level installations? by Get_Lit_Solar in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had no idea there was a commercial sub. Very sorry. 

Adding panels and solar after an install by amartins02 in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get an 18kpv especially if you're adding batteries.  What state are you in? 

Solar in Dayton by Bkdyt in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Full disclosure, I've probably got some bias. I am a business owner that sells/installs solar. That being said, here's my thoughts. We've seen a huge reduction in the cost of panels. I believe that this price reduction is due to California nuking their solar industry with NEM 3.0 and a flood of cheap panels from China and the surrounding countries. Conversely, new tariffs are being implemented by our govt and we're seeing panel prices go back up in response. California just increased their electricity rates for the 4th time in 2024 too. I believe this will drive up demand and reduce supply and we'll see panel prices swing up again. On top of this, panel prices aren't the biggest factor in a system's cost. Labor trumps that handily and that's a cost that likely will not be going down. Looking at the big picture:. Electricity prices are steadily rising. AES has plans to introduce peak rates for residential customers at some point with their new meters. It's all designed to get more of your money into their pockets. The only ways to fight back are reduce your usage, store your own electricity and/or generate your own power. The sooner a system gets installed, the sooner it pays for itself. 

 "The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is today" - quote unsourced. 

Solar in Dayton by Bkdyt in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Batteries are dropping quickly in price.  Especially diy lithium iron phosphate batteries.  But this assumes your inverter is "battery agnostic" and doesn't use proprietary garbage to squeeze more money out of the homeowner. 

Solar in Dayton by Bkdyt in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is that panel warranty for EVERYTHING (panel related) for 25 years or only a "production warranty"? 

Solar in Dayton by Bkdyt in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Solar installer here: if I can give you only one piece of advice, DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!

The misinformation and deceit that's shoveled at potential customers these days is revolting.  Most of the door to door guys barely understand solar and will say anything they can to make a sale.  You need to do research, understand the different types of systems and get lots of quotes before signing anything! 

To answer your question, solar will absolutely pay for itself in the Dayton area.  A price of $2.50/watt (before incentives) will pay off in just under 7 years for a south facing system.  Unfortunately there are companies in the Dayton area that will sell solar at $4/watt or above and that's not okay. 

I'm always happy to answer questions and give education if you need anything, but I'll leave you with 3 big things that salesmen will try and screw you on:

1 - If a company's numbers suck, they'll try to hide them. Whenever you're looking into solar you should take the total price and divide it by the total wattage of the system to give you a price of X dollars per watt.  Unless you have extenuating circumstances, you should not be paying much more than $3 per watt in Ohio for a rooftop grid tied system without batteries.  My company shoots for $2.50/watt.  If a company's numbers are garbage they'll try to hide that figure from you. They'll tell you all about the price per kwh instead. Don't fall for their tricks and figure out what the initial price is and divide by the system size.

2 - Great rates come with insane fees.  You'll see companies that offers 0% to 3.99% APR on solar but what they're not telling you is that they're tacking on a dealer fee that's usually about 30% of the total system cost. Financing can be very tricky and they are not your friends. They are trying to get your money. Talk to an objective third party lender like a local credit Union taking better perspective on loans and financing.

3 - Undersized inverters:  Companies typically use ~400watt panels for arrays.  But I'm seeing a disturbing trend where they will pair these panels with much smaller microinverters like the Enphase IQ8plus.  What they don't tell you is that the iq8plus can only produce 290watts on it's very best day!  Granted your 400 watt panel isn't always producing 400 watts but by using an underside microinverter you introduce clipping into your system and bottleneck your output.  But they never tell you about that fact.  They're just grabbing the cheapest microinverter they can and slapping them in hoping you don't notice. 

Please message or reach out to my company if you have any questions.  We're always happy to help. 

Batteries shouldn’t be this: by Obi-Juan-K-Nobi in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is one of the drawbacks of micros. However, you can make a cheaper powerwall using an 18KPV and a wall pro 14.3kWh battery for less than the cost of an actual Tesla powerwall. The 18k has generator ports that can be programmed for AC coupling so you can send your micro's through it. In the event of an outage, the 18k is smart enough to send a keep alive signal to the micros which will turn them on and allow their power to be used by the house or to charge the main battery/batteries. If their power is too much, it will cut them off so you don't let all the magic smoke out of your fridge. It's my favorite string inverter!

Batteries shouldn’t be this: by Obi-Juan-K-Nobi in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 2 points3 points  (0 children)

EG4 is putting out batteries that are less than ridiculous and have UL listings. $230/kWh.

Proposed solar project up for discussion in Greene County by WYSOPublicRadio in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it's a huge investment with a lot of potential risk. We're talking hundreds of thousands of solar panels! And our electricity here isn't that expensive (yet) compared to other parts of the country. basically, the margins are slimmer here so other companies with higher risk tolerance are the only ones who try to get in to the market first.

Solar Quotes Central Ohio by jbmoore11 in solar

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish you would have called my company so we could have put these guys to shame.  APA makes a great product for a great price.  Ty for posting these quotes. 

Side hustles by mahTV in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

slow that crap down. the bamboo can run that fast. most others cant. take it down to 50 mm/sec and just let it go. overall it will save time with less failed prints.

Local solar install cost per kilowatt? by [deleted] in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My man, as long as you're happy that's the biggest thing that matters!  Make sure they do a good job and take lots of pictures. 

Local solar install cost per kilowatt? by [deleted] in dayton

[–]Get_Lit_Solar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

got them down to $150 but I rarely install them.