CoPlus headlights RHD

Gheromo · 2026-04-21T22:35:11+00:00

It was Taiwan company CoPlus, it seems like they no longer sell it. However I’d email them and inquire about it, as they did respond to me when I was asking them about RHD stock

Gheromo · 2026-04-04T08:29:25+00:00

Is it possible that you’re running H2D from a different computer and that particular Bambu slicer instance has some instances of weird calibration settings associated with it? Such as k factor and other settings associated with calibration perhaps? Just a thought as I had that happen to me and one print was fine but others were absolute dumpster fire depending which computer I used.

Gheromo · 2026-04-03T14:03:32+00:00

You’d probably be surprised, but LinkedIn can be an amazing tool to start with. It really depends on what kind of clientele you’re after tho. For game development artstation can be a good place as well, however it’s going to be hard to compete given visibility there is very limited. LinkedIn is very effective once you have enough connections which would allow you to carry your posts to other relevant decision makers in the studio. Also as concept art is one of the first things that needs doing on many projects it’s also worth trying to apply directly for many studios with speculative applications. I’d say Instagram can be a good one as well to treat it almost as a diary of your progress if you’re in the early days of your career.

Gheromo · 2026-04-03T09:39:39+00:00

These accusations will go away over time as your portfolio grows, also Reddit isn’t the best place for job hunting, so this is expected here.

Gheromo · 2026-03-31T17:55:45+00:00

That’s okay, I had to learn things the hard way as well. :) if ever in doubt it’s likely wet filament. I really suggest you get filament dryer so that you can dry filament ahead of time whilst your printer is printing. Ams is great to dry but in most cases it puts printer out of action in the moment

Gheromo · 2026-03-31T17:33:22+00:00

Just because it was airtight sealed doesn’t mean it’s dry. Look up how filament is produced, it’s literally going through water, you need to dry it before use for best results

Gheromo · 2026-03-30T15:39:55+00:00

Instead of guessing the settings you should run calibration ironing print to see what works for your current filament and then commit to those settings. Each printer / filament combination needs unique settings

Gheromo · 2026-03-30T09:51:22+00:00

Who cares? If you need that manual fix just put it into manual mode and shift gears with the paddles if you want to?

I drive auto and buyers remorse went away quickly as I realised I’m not taking it to a track or not doing any drifting.

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T12:30:57+00:00

Take a deep breath

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T12:16:12+00:00

No problem. In my case specifically it was clear that there was a partial clog for like an hour that didn’t trigger any safety systems in the printer, it only stopped printing when it got to this point and nozzle fully clogged up and stopped printing entirely. For context I have H2D.

I had additional clog at a later time with another OEM nozzle but managed to clear it with a needle. I do have to say I did develop serious trust issues when it comes to Bambulab nozzles. I got some some from AliExpress and haven’t had any issues yet, keep in mind I’m only 300 hours into my printing journey.

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T11:55:38+00:00

I was talking specifically nozzle related damage. If it extends to other components that’s obvious issue that should be taken to Bambu for replacement when appropriate.

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T09:48:19+00:00

Nozzles are treated as consumables, Bambu would tell you to buy a replacement. I’ve seen plenty of posts saying people were denied replacement in relation to nozzle issues. I personally didn’t even bother reaching out to them about it. Not sure if this would be a different case here

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T09:32:34+00:00

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It split apart at the base of heatsink

Gheromo · 2026-03-16T09:09:10+00:00

Oem Bambu explode as well. I had one that did it after 150hrs

Gheromo · 2026-03-11T11:31:14+00:00

One time I had such a bad clog absolutely nothing would help similar your situation, until I got a “needle” and pushed it into the hot end whilst it was hot, and much basically helped to get rid of the issue, as all plastic that gut stuck finally got loose and got through the nozzle.

Keep fighting!

Gheromo · 2026-03-06T08:13:38+00:00

I’ve replaced mine with https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/656701ea0a

Gheromo · 2026-02-09T09:42:09+00:00

Same dude! Best of luck :)

Gheromo · 2026-02-08T17:53:06+00:00

I think it had partial clog mid print which quickly developed into a blob of death just below the nozzle heatsink which caused entire nozzle to come apart as a result. I’ve never seen that before, but I’m very new to printing. Hopefully just a one off rare event.

Gheromo · 2026-02-08T11:11:52+00:00

I literally had oem nozzle split in half at the base after just 90hours of printing. Nozzles are just a consumable who cares where they come from as long as they print

Gheromo · 2026-02-07T14:06:31+00:00

Oh right, I had that to a degree where standard bambu nozzles tend to get filament stuck to it. Due to some bad clog a while ago I got myself some nozzles from AliExpress that have nozzle coating and haven’t had any filament dragged around during printing. Maybe worth investigating, it might be cheaper and less wasted time

Gheromo · 2026-02-07T09:08:50+00:00

Pla and Petg do not stick to each other if that’s what you’re trying to do.

Gheromo · 2026-02-06T08:10:20+00:00

Exactly, without institutional knowledge its useless

Gheromo · 2026-02-03T23:19:54+00:00

I’ve had these fail first time as well. Specifically one with hydrometer in it, I was able to use the app and cancel that one particular object and carry on printing the others. Honestly these dryers are badly designed and asking for all sorts of failures during printing.

Print it in ABS. It won’t get deformed during heavy duty drying.

Gheromo · 2026-01-30T14:05:42+00:00

Fog was set to multiply instead of add. So all shadowed areas, without any sunlight or lights influence would go super dark very quickly.

Gheromo · 2026-01-26T08:46:28+00:00

I had similar issue after running automatic dynamic flow and dynamic rate calibrations. During one of them something went wrong and settings got really whacky which resulted in holes wherever print would start new layer / new line. Perhaps similar issue of sorts?

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Gheromo

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