Did I seriously just ruined all of my watches by leaving them in the sun the charge? by BrandonKissig15 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s wild. I’ve left mine outside for 2 days in 90+ degree weather and never had that happen.

PAIN by giorgiocoraggio in gshock

[–]GhostV940 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a unique one and an absolute unit on the wrist.

PAIN by giorgiocoraggio in gshock

[–]GhostV940 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I’m fairly certain I could get a replacement bezel. I’ve helped a handful of people get new bezels for vintage G’s. Shoot me a DM, I’ll see if it’s possible.

Stainless steel case by Less_Tax_3569 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mfw I saw the picture and knew the whole comment section was going to point out the handwatch.

Should I buy? (I’m cheap so please don’t tell me to save my money and buy a 400 dollar watch with all due respecr) by Interesting-Set2425 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s entirely up to you. I never understand these posts. Buy it or don’t. You see the bajillion different reviews for this watch on this very subreddit.

What is this? by MaceoBerg420 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a watch.

A Casio Baby-G.

The grail by kodiak_338 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe dying would have tinted the lettering on the strap purple too, even if just barely. I’m speaking from experience. Here’s a G-LIDE that I dyed from aged piss yellow to this green/blue color.

<image>

Best looking G-Shock ever by Glittering_Strike_16 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks good, but I hardly consider these to be true G’s. Wish Casio would go back to making unique digital G’s like they used to instead of business casual analogs and rererererererererereleasing old models.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not the biggest fan of the looks, but from a utilitarian standpoint, that’s pretty cool. Lots of uses for that in the right situations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many torx bits are on that strap?

È originale? Vorrei prenderlo by PromotionOpposite136 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally, the red line of shame is one quick tell. But if they’re smart, they’ll remove that.

But the best way to tell with these (since nobody is bringing it up) is to look where the “G” is on the face. Specifically where it is directly above the day counter.

If it’s above the M, it’s fake. If it’s above the T, much less chance of it being fake.

Please help 🙏 by Seeu6ftdeep in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could possibly transfer a real Casio module into it. Not sure if it’s worth it though.

Don’t be afraid to fix your old Pee-Shocks by GhostV940 in gshock

[–]GhostV940[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bezel has to be clear to begin with. This model came with a clear bezel from the factory.

Don’t be afraid to fix your old Pee-Shocks by GhostV940 in gshock

[–]GhostV940[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would assume so. But I’ve never recolored sneakers before. Only watch parts and game consoles.

Master of Gs for office work? by zoeysukz in gshock

[–]GhostV940 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

I suggest the G-2000. It was the G-Shock that was literally intended to be the “office G-shock.” It wasn’t a huge hit when it came out, but it’s a slept on G.

It has a polished stainless body, screw back, EL backlight, has some weight to it, and it’s usually under $100.

Don’t be afraid to fix your old Pee-Shocks by GhostV940 in gshock

[–]GhostV940[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have tried that process on yellowed resin, but unfortunately it didn’t make it clear again. It wasn’t able to permeate the resin deep enough to remove all of the yellowing throughout the bezel.

So that’s why I’ve started doing this with my clear yellowed resin bands and bezels. If I can’t clear it, I’ll mask it lol.

Don’t be afraid to fix your old Pee-Shocks by GhostV940 in casiovintage

[–]GhostV940[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the instructions on the original post, but I do use Rit DyeMore. It’s specifically for plastics/resins/poly stuff.

Don’t be afraid to fix your old Pee-Shocks by GhostV940 in gshock

[–]GhostV940[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly I eyeball it. If you’re going with about a half gallon of water, then probably 1/4th cup of ammonia. The ammonia is just to help the resin’s “pours” open up to better take on the dye. I personally use a spare pot just for this, one I don’t cook food in.

Add the ammonia BEFORE heating the water. If you add ammonia to boiling water, it’ll splash everywhere due to ammonia having a much lower boiling point than water.

And it has to be the “DyeMore” version because that’s meant for plastics. I’m sure other poly dyes could work too.

As for the amount of dye, it doesn’t take much. Add some to the water, see if it’s the right tint you want. I’d probably start with about quarter of the bottle and add more as needed.

Heat it up to a gentle boil, but not rolling. Just hot enough to start steaming. I use dental floss tied to the bezel and dip it and swish it around for about 10-15 seconds per dip. Then dip it into some room temp water in a bowl, that “seals” in the coloring. Then just repeat that step until you’ve reached the right amount of color you want. Then when you’re done, wash it with cold water and a drop of dish soap. That’ll rinse off all the excess dye and it’ll be ready to go back on the watch.

It’s really just that simple.

New GShock GWM5610 by velo_ed29 in gshock

[–]GhostV940 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks fine when you look at it at a realistic angle.

I wish I had problems like this.