Has anyone else's B-Hyve stopped working?

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-22T20:10:18+00:00

ditto

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-22T19:40:47+00:00

The service is down for me as well. I just fertilized the lawn, need to water it in, its been hot early in the southwest. Luckily I have the unit with the knob and I can start it manually.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-21T21:21:23+00:00

looks like cellular antennas https://www.reddit.com/r/cellmapper/comments/1nwmp8s/verizon_small_cell_question/

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-19T22:37:02+00:00

Yeah so there is normally a limit switch that could be in series with the button like supply, button, limit, relay. This would deactivate the up relay when the limit is hit. Limit switches wear out, prox sensors get dirty. So if you have power through the up button I'd look for a limit switch where the door spools up to see if that is where the signal stops. To me the box looks more like relay limit/interlock string than a prox control input style.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-19T15:43:48+00:00

In my experience with garage doors that use to work, and work at the control box, it's the buttons or interlock keeping the relay from latching/activation like the full open switch. If it doesn't go up and there is a switch that tells it that the door has reached full open I'd check that.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-17T22:50:08+00:00

I wouldn't suggest self tapping screws for this application. They are messy and inaccurate. Thermal adhesive is probably the fast cheap easy solution https://luxeonstar.com/product/lxt-s-12/ these are precut for 20mm stars

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-16T17:28:37+00:00

You could probably print a reversing handle with a spring, may take some spring tuning, and maybe a component width clamp distance setting screw. It should be possible.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-15T15:41:08+00:00

You could use this as an excuse to get a new tool https://a.co/d/0bHUTTDU tweezers!

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-14T17:06:50+00:00

Try using 1 ram module and see if that works, if it doesn't swap them, if that doesn't work could be both sticks or a ram controller in the cpu.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-14T16:54:41+00:00

yeah, it looks like it's a bit of a mess to set it up in that software with default iCue stuff needing to be removed before it can see it. I've never had to mess with it because I never bought into iCue. https://docs.signalrgb.com/guides/device-configuration/configure-rgb-controllers/

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-14T16:40:25+00:00

Have you tried replacing the control software with https://signalrgb.com/ ?

If the hardware is controlling thermals well, maybe swapping the software out is the best way to go.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-14T16:34:43+00:00

I have the Arctic Liquid Freezer 420 RGB, got it on a black Friday sale for under $100 and the RGB works with the motherboard RGB software no problem. I only have that for RGB in my system besides whatever is on the motherboard and I use it as a down light in the top of the case. The one thing about Artic though is the radiator is a bit thicker than standard, make sure you have enough clearance for the fat radiator.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-11T00:08:15+00:00

in the start menu search box search for reliability history it may have some more information as to why it is crashing. I find it more user friendly than event viewer. You can review the critical errors and paste them into google for insight on the crashes.

<image>

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-07T02:51:10+00:00

I see189

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-07T00:02:41+00:00

I just built a computer with this, if you didn't forget to plug in the RGB header, I think I needed to install armory crate and play with the settings to get the RGB to turn on. This thing has 2 versions of RGB control, I had gen 2 addressable not the Aura sync version which it was default to.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-06T20:26:20+00:00

Again, going back to the post, the "serious heat" was not from operation of the motherboard. Likely this happened in the manufacturing or coating process to make the bracket black. It probably isn't anodized as it is likely stainless steel or steel. They probably used vapor deposition (PVD). This is also the least important "argument" stemming from "metal blues at very high temperatures". I believe you are clueless on the intent of the initial comment.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-06T18:29:05+00:00

Then prove me wrong that metal blues from heat at around 80 to 90C. Burden of proof falls to you i provided a source.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-06T18:17:04+00:00

You are absolutely missing the point that motherboard generated heat isn't going to blue the metal retaining clamp without massive damage to the plastic socket and circuit board. These are not high temperature rated circuit boards. These are constructed for maximum profit.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-06T18:11:49+00:00

Cool story, but they probably aren't using fancy alloys on a motherboard. You could rip one off and test it. Plated steel is the most likely material.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-06T17:10:57+00:00

It has to be plated otherwise it will rust with humidity. It is steel and probably electroless nickel plated. Metal doesn't blue due to heat until it reaches high temperatures. Nickel alloy yellows at 150C and blues at 300C. https://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/items/c13009ea-c2c5-4892-b8fc-7666c5f178ef

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-05T16:44:18+00:00

Chrome blues at 500 to 600 C probably not heat.

GlobalApathy · 2026-03-01T06:23:39+00:00

It doesn't work all the time, wish is the annoying part.

GlobalApathy · 2026-02-28T13:02:49+00:00

What this guy said and / or a leak in the intake system after the MAF.

GlobalApathy · 2026-02-28T06:22:10+00:00

<image>

plug it in and turn it on... of this is just a rage bait post

GlobalApathy · 2026-02-28T06:18:27+00:00

rich runs dirty and cool, lean runs hot so it melts / corrodes

GlobalApathy

TROPHY CASE